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I have a 1966 Chevy C20 with a 327 engine 5.3L and a 4 speed manual transmission on the floor shift
it also has a hand brake next to the shifter but this is for the drive shaft I never seen any like this I have search and found nothing so far
I’m still working on it I have for over a month
truck runs but needs work
I hope I can get some help here in this forum to get it to run like it should
I’m in Burbank
truck was sitting for 5 years before I got it
Hi and welcome to the forum! Nice to have you here. You'll find some interesting info on this forum. If you haven't found what you're looking for, feel free to post a question. If you have knowledge that someone else is looking for, feel free to share!
You have a 327 cubic inch motor, not a 5.3 liter. Your transmission is a three speed with a granny 1st gear, correct? The entire pickup was changed to a sleeker model in 1967. The rear brake on a 67 used the rear brakes as parking brakes, not a drive line parking brake as in a 1966. The 327 inch motor was only an 8-cyl. 327 rated at 220bhp with a 4bbl carburetor. Pretty low HP considering what a 327 could really put out back in the day. Likely has an MS-420 Transmission installed factory tranny.
You have a 327 cubic inch motor, not a 5.3 liter. Your transmission is a three speed with a granny 1st gear, correct? The entire pickup was changed to a sleeker model in 1967. The rear brake on a 67 used the rear brakes as parking brakes, not a drive line parking brake as in a 1966. The 327 inch motor was only an 8-cyl. 327 rated at 220bhp with a 4bbl carburetor. Pretty low HP considering what a 327 could really put out back in the day. Likely has an MS-420 Transmission installed factory tranny.
good to know that information, my mechanic said it had a 327 engine I figured is a 5.3L since when I order parts that’s the only option I get for this 327 engine
I don’t know what type of manual transmission is on it but the shifter shows 4 gears and the R for reverse and the carburetor is only a 2 barrel Rochester
Truck is running now, shifts good but is too slow compared to what I’m used to driving
it sucks gasoline like a thirsty camel
this is what the parts site ask for when ordering for parts I’m attaching the image of the options offered base on the engine size
Last edited by CaliC20; July 15th, 2021 at 10:01 AM.
good to know that information, my mechanic said it had a 327 engine I figured is a 5.3L since when I order parts that’s the only option I get for this 327 engine
I don’t know what type of manual transmission is on it but the shifter shows 4 gears and the R for reverse and the carburetor is only a 2 barrel Rochester
Truck is running now, shifts good but is too slow compared to what I’m used to driving
it sucks gasoline like a thirsty camel
this is what the parts site ask for when ordering for parts I’m attaching the image of the options offered base on the engine size
The 2-barrel Rochester carburetor is well, built, unlike the four barrel carb, the Rochester Quadrajet, which is a nightmare to repair and jet properly. Trust me, I have rebuilt lots of carburetors. If you wish to switch to a 4 barrel. I'd go with a 450 CFM Holley carb.They also make a two-barrel carb. You might increase your gas mileage and HP, but the cost isn't cheap, and you may have to put a new intake manifold on it, if it didn't come with an adapter plate for the two barrel carb Rochester carb.
I don't know what your axle ratio is but if it's likely a 4.10 ratio on a C-20. Switching up to a 3.42/3.55 ratio might save you on gasoline. There might be a motel tag on the rear axle, but you can figure it out by jacking up a rear tire and marking the tire and axle with chalk or something like it. Make sure you block the front tires, so it won't roll away. then spin the tire and see how many rotations makes. the driveline moves.
Likely has a Dana 60 rear differential Have you calculated your gas mileage by filling the tank, and reading the odometer after filling up again? Make sure your vacuum advance canister on the distributor is not blow out as that will decrease gas mileage. it's a cheap and easy repair to do.You just suck up the vacuum hose to the carb. If air comes though, the diapram is blown out and needs to be replaced. The cost is dirt cheap for a new one and easy to fix. Make sure the hose is soft. If not I's get a new hose too. Just have them cut it off to the length you need and replace it.
You might increase you shifting by switching to a 75-80w gear oil. Lots of pickups back the used 140 weight which is too thick unless you a driving in high heat under a load of stuff in the pickup.
Last edited by oilcanhenry; July 16th, 2021 at 5:57 PM.
[QUOTE=oilcanhenry;467923]The 2-barrel Rochester carburetor is well, built, unlike the four barrel carb, the Rochester Quadrajet, which is a nightmare to repair and jet properly. Trust me, I have rebuilt lots of carburetors. If you wish to switch to a 4 barrel. I'd go with a 450 CFM Holley carb.They also make a two-barrel carb. You might increase your gas mileage and HP, but the cost isn't cheap, and you may have to put a new intake manifold on it, if it didn't come with an adapter plate for the two barrel carb Rochester carb.
I'd suggest a 650 cfm, oilcanhenry may have a typo. If you want to do doughnuts etc, you will have to replace the granny tranny with a saginaw or something higher geared. As far as a gas drinker, I enclosed a rochester 2 bbl carb. spec pdf.
July 13th, 2021, 10:35 AM
1966 C20 new owner
