I got a 1983 c10, and the rear end is screwed, and I am thinking about either swapping the entire rear end, or replacing the differential components, depending on the price. idk which is cheaper, any kind of answers would be very helpful!

 

Takes a well-trained tech to adjust and space rear end components. Otherwise, your spider gears, ring gear, and pinion gears will self-destruct, and they
'll whine like a bitch, right away.

 

Try to swap rear ends instead of swapping carriers - it is a lot easier and cheaper.

You can use any rear end from a 73 to 87 truck, but keep in mind that 10 and 12 bolt rear ends were available. 10 bolts are Ok for most stock uses, but if you plan to abuse it you should probably go with a 12 bolt. 10 bolt can survive if properly set up, but a 12 bolt is easier.

It is unlikely that you will be able to find a 3.43 in a stock truck. They mostly used the 3.08 and 3.73, and the 3.73 is probably the best all around performance gear with the 700r4.

You can shop for the type of traction you want to use - stock limited slip carrier, locker (carrier or spider replacement "lunchbox" locker), spool, and aftermarket limited slip carrier.

If you do buy a traction device, make sure it will work with your axles. Axle spline counts vary over the years, so you need to get the right one (or change the axles).

You will have to change the drive and driven gear on the speedometer output of the transmission in order for the speedometer to be accurate. Usually it s best to wait to redo those gears until the truck is running with the rear end and the tires it is supposed to use. Once it is all together (with all the variables in the drivetrain and the speedometer gauge head) you can recalibrate the drive/driven gears to make your speedometer accurat