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Chevrolet Equinox
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07 Equinox Replacing Plugs and Wires

Old Jan 13, 2015 | 7:16 AM
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Default 07 Equinox Replacing Plugs and Wires

Has anyone had any luck changing the plugs and wires on a 2007 Equinox 3.4L without lifting the car up? I understand the ones in the back can be a pain to get to, but is this even possible without using jackstands or a lift? Some have mentioned going in from under the vehicle to change the back ones, but does that mean lifting it first? I understand that room is limited underneath, but I can change the oil and filter by just sliding myself underneath. Thanks for the help.
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 8:15 AM
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I recently changed the "front" bank of plugs and wires. My intent is to put the vehicle up on my ramps and see if I can access what I need from underneath - after it warms up a bit. No rush on my part. Let the group know what you evidently do.
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 7:57 PM
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Originally Posted by scice
Has anyone had any luck changing the plugs and wires on a 2007 Equinox 3.4L without lifting the car up? I understand the ones in the back can be a pain to get to, but is this even possible without using jackstands or a lift? Some have mentioned going in from under the vehicle to change the back ones, but does that mean lifting it first? I understand that room is limited underneath, but I can change the oil and filter by just sliding myself underneath. Thanks for the help.
I don't know why people think the back plugs are so hard to access from the top. I didin't think replacing the back plugs was that bad at all. I'd say routing the wires correctly was harder than replacing the spark plugs.

To anyone that says this was "hard", the Equinox 3400 is a piece of cake compared to a few common vehicles that come to mind:

- 1996-2006 Dodge Caravan/Plymouth Voyager/Chrysler Town & Country w/3.3L or 3.8L (removal of wiper transmission & cowl is necessary)
- 1991-1997 Pontiac Grand Prix/Oldmobile Cutlass Supreme/Chevy Lumina/Monte Carlo w/DOHC 3.4L (torque struts must be disconnected and engine must be tilted forward)
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 5:46 AM
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It looks like you guys are talking me into doing it myself. But like Silver Streak mentioned, I'll wait for a warmer day here in Jersey. Did either of you use anti-seize on the plug threads, I thought I saw something that Chevy was no longer recommending it because of conductivity issues. Thanks for the input.
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 1:32 PM
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Originally Posted by scice
It looks like you guys are talking me into doing it myself. But like Silver Streak mentioned, I'll wait for a warmer day here in Jersey. Did either of you use anti-seize on the plug threads, I thought I saw something that Chevy was no longer recommending it because of conductivity issues. Thanks for the input.
I used anti-seize when I replaced mine, but if you are using the correct spark plugs (that don't have black, zinc-coated threads) it is not necessary. It won't hurt anything if you do as long as you apply it correctly. Use a very small amount and make sure none gets on the bottom side of the threads or on the ground electrode.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 6:41 AM
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Thanks Ruley73. I assume by correct, you mean AC Delco 41101 Iridium?
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 9:25 AM
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Originally Posted by scice
Thanks Ruley73. I assume by correct, you mean AC Delco 41101 Iridium?
Those are the ones that I recommend, but there are a few others that will also suffice.
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