2006 Chevy Equinox LT ABS and Traction Control Light Problems
#211
Same issue here.
2006 Chevrolet Equinox
ABS and T/C light's coming on.
Started around 66,000 miles.
Turn the car on, the lights will not come on, but you put the car in drive and begin to creep out and try applying the brakes, it will start grinding, as if you're trying to brake on ice.
Go beyond 15mph or 20mph the ABS/TC lights come on. The brake grinding stops at this point, until you slow down and begin driving a slower speeds for a couple of mins.
Called Chevrolet Customer Service, they make Wal Mart employees look like members of Mensa. They can barely speak English, barely understand you, always talking over you and cutting you off. They have no knowledge of vehicles and no idea what they're doing on the phone.
I opened a case with them, they called me back and left a VM. I call back, try the extension, it routed me to another agent. I stated multiple times, I was trying to get to specific extension # regarding an existing open service request. They stated they didn't need to transfer me, because they could help me right then and there.
I explain all the issues again, 30 mins later after back and forth and being on hold minutes at a time, they come back saying noticed I already had a case and somebody else was working it so I would have to wait for THEM to call me back.
You don't say, genius? That's why I called back in the first place -- TO GET IN TOUCH WITH THE ORIGINAL AGENT! Just as I stated before you dragged me through a 30 min waste of a phone call.
Their customer service is dumber than bricks. Just like the bricks that are their 2006 Chevrolet Equinox's.
Why doesn't Chevrolet stop paying worthless Customer service and just activate a robot call center, and take those millions of dollars in wages to fix their crappy vehicles?
This isn't even my car. It's my girlfriend's. And I'm completely frustrated.
In the meantime, I'm looking for a trusty mechanic in the Dallas, TX area who can try first replacing the wire harness as others have recommended here.
I have also filed complaints with Office of Defects Investigation (ODI), National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) and U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT).
Also, to the folks saying they're getting a Nissan Maxima: don't. It has clear-coat cracking issues with paint.
2006 Chevrolet Equinox
ABS and T/C light's coming on.
Started around 66,000 miles.
Turn the car on, the lights will not come on, but you put the car in drive and begin to creep out and try applying the brakes, it will start grinding, as if you're trying to brake on ice.
Go beyond 15mph or 20mph the ABS/TC lights come on. The brake grinding stops at this point, until you slow down and begin driving a slower speeds for a couple of mins.
Called Chevrolet Customer Service, they make Wal Mart employees look like members of Mensa. They can barely speak English, barely understand you, always talking over you and cutting you off. They have no knowledge of vehicles and no idea what they're doing on the phone.
I opened a case with them, they called me back and left a VM. I call back, try the extension, it routed me to another agent. I stated multiple times, I was trying to get to specific extension # regarding an existing open service request. They stated they didn't need to transfer me, because they could help me right then and there.
I explain all the issues again, 30 mins later after back and forth and being on hold minutes at a time, they come back saying noticed I already had a case and somebody else was working it so I would have to wait for THEM to call me back.
You don't say, genius? That's why I called back in the first place -- TO GET IN TOUCH WITH THE ORIGINAL AGENT! Just as I stated before you dragged me through a 30 min waste of a phone call.
Their customer service is dumber than bricks. Just like the bricks that are their 2006 Chevrolet Equinox's.
Why doesn't Chevrolet stop paying worthless Customer service and just activate a robot call center, and take those millions of dollars in wages to fix their crappy vehicles?
This isn't even my car. It's my girlfriend's. And I'm completely frustrated.
In the meantime, I'm looking for a trusty mechanic in the Dallas, TX area who can try first replacing the wire harness as others have recommended here.
I have also filed complaints with Office of Defects Investigation (ODI), National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) and U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT).
Also, to the folks saying they're getting a Nissan Maxima: don't. It has clear-coat cracking issues with paint.
Last edited by GarryShape; August 8th, 2014 at 4:31 PM.
#212
Issue with connector
Have the same problem with the ABS as everyone on this forum. Replaced the speed sensor and the hub and STILL had an issue. Then I noticed that
the connector at the sensor was <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <wontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]-->corroded. Instead of spending another $70 for a new cable from the connection at the sensor to the "other" connector just on the other side of the wheel well, I cut out the connector and spliced in a new 16 gauge twisted pair wire. In essense I removed the first connector at the sensor by extending the wiring to the second connector. I spliced the wire by soldering it and using shrink tubing and before I put the "other" connector on the end I slid armor sheeting over the wire to protect in in the wheel well. I have now driven over 1000 miles and have not had any problems. What Chevy should do is redesign the sensor to remove the connector inside the wheel well and extend the wiring to connect to the second connector. Hope this helps some of you out there. If Chevy wants to contact me for a copy of my design I will gladly sell it to them for a modest price.
the connector at the sensor was <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <wontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]-->corroded. Instead of spending another $70 for a new cable from the connection at the sensor to the "other" connector just on the other side of the wheel well, I cut out the connector and spliced in a new 16 gauge twisted pair wire. In essense I removed the first connector at the sensor by extending the wiring to the second connector. I spliced the wire by soldering it and using shrink tubing and before I put the "other" connector on the end I slid armor sheeting over the wire to protect in in the wheel well. I have now driven over 1000 miles and have not had any problems. What Chevy should do is redesign the sensor to remove the connector inside the wheel well and extend the wiring to connect to the second connector. Hope this helps some of you out there. If Chevy wants to contact me for a copy of my design I will gladly sell it to them for a modest price.
#213
Have the same problem with the ABS as everyone on this forum. Replaced the speed sensor and the hub and STILL had an issue. Then I noticed that
the connector at the sensor was <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <wontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]-->corroded. Instead of spending another $70 for a new cable from the connection at the sensor to the "other" connector just on the other side of the wheel well, I cut out the connector and spliced in a new 16 gauge twisted pair wire. In essense I removed the first connector at the sensor by extending the wiring to the second connector. I spliced the wire by soldering it and using shrink tubing and before I put the "other" connector on the end I slid armor sheeting over the wire to protect in in the wheel well. I have now driven over 1000 miles and have not had any problems. What Chevy should do is redesign the sensor to remove the connector inside the wheel well and extend the wiring to connect to the second connector. Hope this helps some of you out there. If Chevy wants to contact me for a copy of my design I will gladly sell it to them for a modest price.
the connector at the sensor was <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <wontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]-->corroded. Instead of spending another $70 for a new cable from the connection at the sensor to the "other" connector just on the other side of the wheel well, I cut out the connector and spliced in a new 16 gauge twisted pair wire. In essense I removed the first connector at the sensor by extending the wiring to the second connector. I spliced the wire by soldering it and using shrink tubing and before I put the "other" connector on the end I slid armor sheeting over the wire to protect in in the wheel well. I have now driven over 1000 miles and have not had any problems. What Chevy should do is redesign the sensor to remove the connector inside the wheel well and extend the wiring to connect to the second connector. Hope this helps some of you out there. If Chevy wants to contact me for a copy of my design I will gladly sell it to them for a modest price.
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...274&cc=1431999 by chance?
Thanks
Last edited by YouBugger; August 20th, 2014 at 8:55 AM. Reason: Added link
#214
Correct Pigtail
Yes You Bugger that does look like the correct part. If you do purchase that part I suggest you wrap the connector that is in the wheel well with some water proof wrap to protect the connector so that it doesn't corrode in the future.
#215
Another victim
Having the same problem with my 06' Equinox. I've looked through just about the entire 20ish pages of this thread and thought that I found the solution - pigtail wire harness... Three mechanics and about $1000 later... still a problem.
Please tell me that there is a recall that I don't know about! Help me Chevy!
P.S. - I'm not long winded, but if I were, this post would be A LOT more detailed
Please tell me that there is a recall that I don't know about! Help me Chevy!
P.S. - I'm not long winded, but if I were, this post would be A LOT more detailed
#216
Yet another victim
Having the same problem with my 06' Equinox. I've looked through just about the entire 20ish pages of this thread and thought that I found the solution - pigtail wire harness... Three mechanics and about $1000 later... still a problem.
Please tell me that there is a recall that I don't know about! Help me Chevy!
P.S. - I'm not long winded, but if I were, this post would be A LOT more detailed
Please tell me that there is a recall that I don't know about! Help me Chevy!
P.S. - I'm not long winded, but if I were, this post would be A LOT more detailed
#218
Hi, I have 2006 equinox ABS system fail, I took it to a independent dealer for diagnostic pay $80.00 to test , and they told me the left front Hub bearing need to be replace, so because I have tools knowledge and experience in mechanical, changing parts , I like to do it my self , and I'm very proud of that , because no one is going to take care of my vehicle like I do .
the problem is , after change hub bearing reset light ! it work very good " for three days , ABS back, and of course brake start failing again , my question is ? if I pay some one to check ! with all de procedure and computer and technology they have! they don't even know what is wrong ? they put my SUV inside the garage to check instead to take a test drive and see what is wrong by listening the noise . at last I have a new hub bearing! going for the next .
the problem is , after change hub bearing reset light ! it work very good " for three days , ABS back, and of course brake start failing again , my question is ? if I pay some one to check ! with all de procedure and computer and technology they have! they don't even know what is wrong ? they put my SUV inside the garage to check instead to take a test drive and see what is wrong by listening the noise . at last I have a new hub bearing! going for the next .
#219
Lights
Hi, I have 2006 equinox ABS system fail, I took it to a independent dealer for diagnostic pay $80.00 to test , and they told me the left front Hub bearing need to be replace, so because I have tools knowledge and experience in mechanical, changing parts , I like to do it my self , and I'm very proud of that , because no one is going to take care of my vehicle like I do .
the problem is , after change hub bearing reset light ! it work very good " for three days , ABS back, and of course brake start failing again , my question is ? if I pay some one to check ! with all de procedure and computer and technology they have! they don't even know what is wrong ? they put my SUV inside the garage to check instead to take a test drive and see what is wrong by listening the noise . at last I have a new hub bearing! going for the next .
the problem is , after change hub bearing reset light ! it work very good " for three days , ABS back, and of course brake start failing again , my question is ? if I pay some one to check ! with all de procedure and computer and technology they have! they don't even know what is wrong ? they put my SUV inside the garage to check instead to take a test drive and see what is wrong by listening the noise . at last I have a new hub bearing! going for the next .
#220
No recall. Doubt there will be. I too did the pigtail harness, saved myself the money by doing it myself. Yea, didn't make it to the end of the drive before the noise came back. I took the ABS fuse out. Lights are on no abs or tc, but also no noise or violent shuttering stoping at low speeds. However, it's rough on my brakes. Which are new too in hopes of fixing it and it didn't. It's really frustrating.