Equinox & Terrain These SUVs offers a smaller, sportier stance than the Trailblazer, all without compromising the SUV abilities.

Chevrolet Equinox
Platform: Theta

2008 Equinox overheating issue at idle - sucking air?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 29, 2020 | 9:18 AM
  #1  
ajparry89's Avatar
Thread Starter
CF Junior Member
 
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Default 2008 Equinox overheating issue at idle - sucking air?

Hello everybody,
I just replaced the head gaskets on my 2008 equinox 3.4L, it runs great, no issues there. however I seem to be having a hard time getting all the air out. blows hot air in the heater, so thats good. I am aware of the bleeder screw above the water pump, and opened that to let the air out until coolant flowed out. but after driving it and then letting it idle, it then continues to overheat, and when i check that bleeder, there is more air there. i have repeated this process multiple times, and have added about an additional gallon of coolant above what I originally filled it with when i finished the job (which was between 1-2 gallons), and still there is always air at that bleeder screw every time i check after the temp rises.

are there any other tricks to bleeding the air out of these? or is this a process that just needs to be repeated continually until its done? any step-by-step procedures others follow to successfully bleed them properly/quicker? Is there any possible way that it could be sucking air into the system somehow? I have never head of that, and would think that I would notice coolant leaks before air got sucked in - but no leaks. and if air was coming from a cylinder, I would have a bad miss and or burning coolant as well, but none of that.

Thanks for all the help/advice!

Reply
Old Jun 29, 2020 | 9:39 PM
  #2  
ruley73's Avatar
CF Pro Member
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 981
Likes: 83
Default

Originally Posted by ajparry89
Hello everybody,
I just replaced the head gaskets on my 2008 equinox 3.4L, it runs great, no issues there. however I seem to be having a hard time getting all the air out. blows hot air in the heater, so thats good. I am aware of the bleeder screw above the water pump, and opened that to let the air out until coolant flowed out. but after driving it and then letting it idle, it then continues to overheat, and when i check that bleeder, there is more air there. i have repeated this process multiple times, and have added about an additional gallon of coolant above what I originally filled it with when i finished the job (which was between 1-2 gallons), and still there is always air at that bleeder screw every time i check after the temp rises.

are there any other tricks to bleeding the air out of these? or is this a process that just needs to be repeated continually until its done? any step-by-step procedures others follow to successfully bleed them properly/quicker? Is there any possible way that it could be sucking air into the system somehow? I have never head of that, and would think that I would notice coolant leaks before air got sucked in - but no leaks. and if air was coming from a cylinder, I would have a bad miss and or burning coolant as well, but none of that.

Thanks for all the help/advice!
Replace the coolant lid if you haven't done so already. Make sure both cooling fans run too. Both fans should run when the A/C is turned on.
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2020 | 8:57 AM
  #3  
ajparry89's Avatar
Thread Starter
CF Junior Member
 
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Default

Yes, both fans run. You mean the coolant cap on the reservoir? I can try that. would just be surprised how it can suck the air down INTO the fluid that way from the top....
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2020 | 9:07 AM
  #4  
ruley73's Avatar
CF Pro Member
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 981
Likes: 83
Default

Originally Posted by ajparry89
Yes, both fans run. You mean the coolant cap on the reservoir? I can try that. would just be surprised how it can suck the air down INTO the fluid that way from the top....
If the cap is bad, coolant is boiling out of the vent tube which is hard to see from the top.
Reply
Old Aug 18, 2020 | 8:59 AM
  #5  
bearbait's Avatar
CF Active Member
10 Year Member
Liked
 
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 167
Likes: 17
From: New Lenox ,IL. Eagle River, AK
Default

There are 2 bleeders on that engine. One on each side of engine.
Reply
Old Aug 18, 2020 | 6:40 PM
  #6  
ruley73's Avatar
CF Pro Member
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 981
Likes: 83
Default

Originally Posted by bearbait
There are 2 bleeders on that engine. One on each side of engine.
There's only one bleeder on top of the water pump tower on the 3.4L in the 2005-2009 Equinox/Torrent. It's different than the 3.4L used in older GM models which had two bleeders like you mentioned.

Last edited by ruley73; Aug 18, 2020 at 6:45 PM.
Reply
Old Aug 18, 2020 | 9:48 PM
  #7  
bearbait's Avatar
CF Active Member
10 Year Member
Liked
 
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 167
Likes: 17
From: New Lenox ,IL. Eagle River, AK
Default

I have a 2008 3.4 Equinox and there are 2 bleeder valves.
Reply
Old Aug 18, 2020 | 10:49 PM
  #8  
ruley73's Avatar
CF Pro Member
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 981
Likes: 83
Default

Originally Posted by bearbait
I have a 2008 3.4 Equinox and there are 2 bleeder valves.
I've owned and maintained our 2007 Equinox since 2008. The factory service manual could be wrong, but it only mentions one bleeder screw atop the water pump tower. That's the only one I've seen. Where is the second one you found? Can you post a picture?
Reply
Old Aug 19, 2020 | 7:29 AM
  #9  
bearbait's Avatar
CF Active Member
10 Year Member
Liked
 
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 167
Likes: 17
From: New Lenox ,IL. Eagle River, AK
Default

This might help
Reply
Old Aug 19, 2020 | 7:35 AM
  #10  
bearbait's Avatar
CF Active Member
10 Year Member
Liked
 
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 167
Likes: 17
From: New Lenox ,IL. Eagle River, AK
Default

One is above water pump and other is by thermostat
Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:43 PM.