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Well, the vehicle is at least 15 years old. It's perfectly normal to gradually lose a small amount of refrigerant, but it adds up over a long period of time. If the AC system has never been serviced, it could just need be recharged.
FWIW we had our 2007 Equinox professionally evacuated and recharged about 2 years ago. We've owned it since 2008 so I'm sure it had never been serviced prior to that. It was about 9 ounces low on refrigerant, and the system holds 1.3 lbs. Your 2008 holds the same amount, so it could definitely be low just like ours was. Ours was behaving similarly before it was recharged. It works pretty good now. It still doesn't seem quite as good as new even though the measured temp at the vents is around 38-40°F. The condenser is pretty beat up from road debris hitting it over the years so I've just chalked it up to that. It's not leaking, but the cooling fins aren't very straight on the bottom 1/3 or so. I simply need to take the time to straighten them out.
38-40F is very normal at the vents. Even 42F, but 45- 60F, no way. My old 1998 Chevrolet K-1500 still has the same original A/C compressor, condenser and evaporator units, and I've only had to change out a leaking Schrader valve on the low-side last year. GMT-400's
were built great, IMO. Most likely because they didn't have all of these crap Asian parts.
Last edited by oilcanhenry; Apr 21, 2023 at 2:38 PM.
Today I went to an a/c service professional, which is a small, non-fancy, warehouse space, Carlos pulled out his gauges and immediately diagnose an overcharged refrigerant condition in my a/c. Hearing that I couldn't spend $250 for the standard refrigerant recovery and recharge to the exact required amount for optimal cooling and, seeing my total disappointment, bad day face, took pity on me and offered a fix of extracting some of the gas. I was very satisfied with the very reduced quickie. Now it's cooling plenty, down to about 56F at the vent. Maybe I'll get brave enough to inject/charge a little more R 1343a and see if I could get it" a little lower. Can you gentlemen advise me on this?
In conclusion, the clicking, and cycling on and off is clear evidence of overcharge, he says. The a/c control of the air intake or recirculating light switching back and forth, on its own, between the two appears to be a normal consequence of cycling on and off. That's what I am guessing.
Thaks again for all the help. Greatly apreciated.
Today I went to an a/c service professional, which is a small, non-fancy, warehouse space, Carlos pulled out his gauges and immediately diagnose an overcharged refrigerant condition in my a/c. Hearing that I couldn't spend $250 for the standard refrigerant recovery and recharge to the exact required amount for optimal cooling and, seeing my total disappointment, bad day face, took pity on me and offered a fix of extracting some of the gas. I was very satisfied with the very reduced quickie. Now it's cooling plenty, down to about 56F at the vent. Maybe I'll get brave enough to inject/charge a little more R 1343a and see if I could get it" a little lower. Can you gentlemen advise me on this?
In conclusion, the clicking, and cycling on and off is clear evidence of overcharge, he says. The a/c control of the air intake or recirculating light switching back and forth, on its own, between the two appears to be a normal consequence of cycling on and off. That's what I am guessing.
Thaks again for all the help. Greatly apreciated.
I'd take it to another shop and get a second opinion. It's normal for the compressor to cycle on/off on this vehicle because it was designed to function this way. Not all automotive A/C systems operate this way and it's obvious the tech that helped you is unaware of this. The only way you're going to get the right amount of refrigerant in the system is if you have it professionally evacuated, measured, and recharged with a machine. You can get it pretty close if you're familiar with the refrigeration system you're working with, know how use a manifold gauge set, and know how to interpret the readings you get. Even then you need to account for variances in your readings to due ambient air temp and humidity. 56°F at the vents is unacceptable unless the ambient temp is well above 100°F.
It's generally not normal for the climate control to automatically switch to recirculate. However, TSB # PIT4705 states this can happen if the A/C system head pressures are too high (400 PSI or above). Recirculate is disabled below 32°F and whenever defog/defrost mode is used.
Today I went to an a/c service professional, which is a small, non-fancy, warehouse space, Carlos pulled out his gauges and immediately diagnose an overcharged refrigerant condition in my a/c. Hearing that I couldn't spend $250 for the standard refrigerant recovery and recharge to the exact required amount for optimal cooling and, seeing my total disappointment, bad day face, took pity on me and offered a fix of extracting some of the gas. I was very satisfied with the very reduced quickie. Now it's cooling plenty, down to about 56F at the vent. Maybe I'll get brave enough to inject/charge a little more R 1343a and see if I could get it" a little lower. Can you gentlemen advise me on this?
In conclusion, the clicking, and cycling on and off is clear evidence of overcharge, he says. The a/c control of the air intake or recirculating light switching back and forth, on its own, between the two appears to be a normal consequence of cycling on and off. That's what I am guessing.
Thaks again for all the help. Greatly apreciated.
You may have air/O2 in the system. I would never tolerate 56F on an A/C unit. If its not 42 F or less at the main vent, it's not normal, IMO. My 1998 K-1500 4x4 Chevy pickup. A/C does not cycle, nor does my 2015' Malibu. Both run at at 38-40 F. You may have to evacuate the system, tighten everything up as your seals are old, and add the correct amount of R-134A. I'd add and oz of PAG oil and some green leak detector too. Be a good idea to chuck your accumulator at at its age, replace the seals, then pump it down to -28/30 PSI for a half an hour or more. It will boil out any moisture. Then refill with the R-134A. I dont go by weight of R-134A, but by hi/low pressures and cooling temps at the vent's and it works out just fine.
Last edited by oilcanhenry; Apr 26, 2023 at 4:41 AM.
Considering an a/c gauge set, maybe from Amazon, to start getting educated on auto a/c systems and checking refrigerant charge, diagnose, etc.
Any suggestions on this and maybe some youtube videos to set me on the right track? Maybe a good idea for me.
Here is an image of the refrigerant bottle I have used on several cars with good results except for the Equinox overcharge incident.
Any and all suggestions are greatly accepted.
Considering an a/c gauge set, maybe from Amazon, to start getting educated on auto a/c systems and checking refrigerant charge, diagnose, etc.
Any suggestions on this and maybe some youtube videos to set me on the right track? Maybe a good idea for me.
Here is an image of the refrigerant bottle I have used on several cars with good results except for the Equinox overcharge incident.
Any and all suggestions are greatly accepted.
This should help you understand evacuation procedures and installation. Problem with the EZ Chill ect, is it only shows the low-side pressure, not the high-side thus too much R-134A is in your system. R-134A is not toxic to humans outside the vehicle if inhaled. It turns into a gas at atmospheric pressure. That's how A/C systems work. Liquid to gas, and back to liquid which absorbs the heat in your vehicle by evaporation. Many of us wont use an A/C sealer as it tends to decrease the efficiency of the A/C system but leak detector is good. Anyhow watch this video by ChrisFix, which should help you out.
rcchevrolet Yes I can do this for sure! ChrisFix links to Amazon sound like a good price complete with a carrying bag.
I will also want a leak detector and refrigerant can tap valve. Should I go for one of these sets? I'm to suggestions. Thanks again, very much.
I noticed my own posting to ChristFix, the first one on top, 2 years ago but totally forgot all about it.
rcchevrolet Yes I can do this for sure! ChrisFix links to Amazon sound like a good price complete with a carrying bag.
I will also want a leak detector and refrigerant can tap valve. Should I go for one of these sets? I'm to suggestions. Thanks again, very much.
I noticed my own posting to ChristFix, the first one on top, 2 years ago but totally forgot all about it.
I would. You can add leak-detector into any system at the low-side port as I did on my 98' K-1500. Good thing too because the only issue I've had with her was a leaking schrader valve. Repaired easy; no problemo since then.
