2000 Chevy Express 3500 No Start No OBDII Connection
September 16th, 2013, 7:54 AM
#11
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you might have to do a security re-learn. It basically makes the computer and the van like each other again. It normally takes about 45 minutes.
BTW, this is an educated guess. I had to do this when I had my van's computer swapped with a custom tune. Mine is an '06 so I don't know for sure if yours is the same.
Insert key, attempt to start the vehicle and leave the key in the ON position.
In some vehicles, the Battery and Security light will blink for several seconds, and then shut off. Then the Security light will then remain ON. Leave the ignition ON until the Security light goes OFF. This will take about 10-12 minutes. make sure to turn off all accessories like radio, headlights, etc.
When the Security light goes OFF, turn the ignition to the OFF position.
Leave ignition OFF for 45 Seconds.
Attempt to start the vehicle again and leave the key in the ON position.
In some vehicles, the Battery and Security light will blink for several seconds, and then shut off. Then the Security light will then remain ON. Leave the ignition ON until the Security light goes OFF. This will take about 10-12 minutes.
Turn the ignition to the OFF position for 45 Seconds.
Attempt to start the vehicle again and leave the key in the ON position.
In some vehicles, the Battery and Security light will blink for several seconds, and then shut off. Then the Security light will then remain ON. Leave the ignition ON until the Security light goes OFF. This will take about 10-12 minutes
Once this entire procedure has been completed (three times) your vehicle will start on the fourth attempt.
You might have to also bring it to a mechanic that can do a crank/case relearn. Dealer will probably charge you $100 for that, so try to find a good normal mechanic with a scan tool. It takes about 30 seconds to do that relearn, so a normal mechanic is likely to only charge $10-30. If you do the steps above (and it works) then you get a check engine light, you will need the crank relearn. Go to the mechanic and tell them you need a crank relearn on your GM van since you replaced the PCM. They should know what needs to be done.
Again, that is after doing the above steps and assuming that worke
Maybe u have like this problem..found another here!!
BTW, this is an educated guess. I had to do this when I had my van's computer swapped with a custom tune. Mine is an '06 so I don't know for sure if yours is the same.
Insert key, attempt to start the vehicle and leave the key in the ON position.
In some vehicles, the Battery and Security light will blink for several seconds, and then shut off. Then the Security light will then remain ON. Leave the ignition ON until the Security light goes OFF. This will take about 10-12 minutes. make sure to turn off all accessories like radio, headlights, etc.
When the Security light goes OFF, turn the ignition to the OFF position.
Leave ignition OFF for 45 Seconds.
Attempt to start the vehicle again and leave the key in the ON position.
In some vehicles, the Battery and Security light will blink for several seconds, and then shut off. Then the Security light will then remain ON. Leave the ignition ON until the Security light goes OFF. This will take about 10-12 minutes.
Turn the ignition to the OFF position for 45 Seconds.
Attempt to start the vehicle again and leave the key in the ON position.
In some vehicles, the Battery and Security light will blink for several seconds, and then shut off. Then the Security light will then remain ON. Leave the ignition ON until the Security light goes OFF. This will take about 10-12 minutes
Once this entire procedure has been completed (three times) your vehicle will start on the fourth attempt.
You might have to also bring it to a mechanic that can do a crank/case relearn. Dealer will probably charge you $100 for that, so try to find a good normal mechanic with a scan tool. It takes about 30 seconds to do that relearn, so a normal mechanic is likely to only charge $10-30. If you do the steps above (and it works) then you get a check engine light, you will need the crank relearn. Go to the mechanic and tell them you need a crank relearn on your GM van since you replaced the PCM. They should know what needs to be done.
Again, that is after doing the above steps and assuming that worke
Maybe u have like this problem..found another here!!
September 16th, 2013, 7:55 AM
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September 17th, 2013, 11:22 AM
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fidde74,
Do you mean your radiator fan or fan for heater/ac? If it's the one for the heater and a/c, mind did the same thing, and was the first symptom prior to the no-start condition. Mine is fixed by the way...your message has jogged my memory to get online and post what fixed mine in case it helps others.
Regarding the fan (for the heater and a/c)...there is a resistor in the engine compartment on the blower mother plastic housing that, if it goes bad, will cause the fan to come on even with the ignition turned off....which can lead to a dead battery. This is what I encountered. Resister is fairly cheap (~$35) and real easy to replace. In my case, however, that was just the first in a long chain of things that went bad. But it should be fixed first. Like yours, my van would start and run for just a second.
In my case it turned out to be a bad ECU (engine computer). On this van it is placed in a very bad place and it is easy for water to find it's way into it if the seal is compromised, as it was in mine. When the mechanic opened it, he could see remnants of water puddles in it!!! The mechanic had bad luck with the replacement however. First one sent out was bad and caused mechanic to chase his tell and waste money having it reflashed (he buys ecus that are supposedly pre-flashed for you car so there is no need to take it to the dealer). After a week and tail-chasing, he finally ordered a different ecu. This one got the van started, but it showed evap and transmission codes...and in fact transmission issues prevented the van from being driven. After another week of tail-chasing, mechanic paid someone to come onsite and re-flash it. And like magic, van is running like new again. No DTC codes showing up at all!
The GM passcode security is likely what is causing your no-start. It sounds exactly like mine. Starts, dies in a second or less. The security cuts power to fuel pump. A bad ecu (computer) can cause the car to think it's being stolen, basically, and since the passkey mode fails, it cuts off power to the fuel pump.
One important clue we had was that a code scanner could not communicate with the ecu. If you don't have one, you can likely rent one cheap at a local parts store. If you also can't find one that will communicate with your computer, then almost certainly your ecu is bad. There are places that sell these ecus online already flashed. But as my mechanic found out, there is often a "fine print" warning that the computer "may" need to be re-flashed. My mechanic had to reflash the new ones twice at $150 a pop. He wanted me to pay for the second, I ultimately agreed to pay 1/2 of the second but I'm not happy about it and probably won't give him any more business. It certainly wasn't my fault he got a bad computer and it was his choice on the source. Knowing what I know now, and how easy it is to change the computer out, I would have done this repair on my own by ordering the ecu online from a place that programs it based on your vin #.
Good luck
Do you mean your radiator fan or fan for heater/ac? If it's the one for the heater and a/c, mind did the same thing, and was the first symptom prior to the no-start condition. Mine is fixed by the way...your message has jogged my memory to get online and post what fixed mine in case it helps others.
Regarding the fan (for the heater and a/c)...there is a resistor in the engine compartment on the blower mother plastic housing that, if it goes bad, will cause the fan to come on even with the ignition turned off....which can lead to a dead battery. This is what I encountered. Resister is fairly cheap (~$35) and real easy to replace. In my case, however, that was just the first in a long chain of things that went bad. But it should be fixed first. Like yours, my van would start and run for just a second.
In my case it turned out to be a bad ECU (engine computer). On this van it is placed in a very bad place and it is easy for water to find it's way into it if the seal is compromised, as it was in mine. When the mechanic opened it, he could see remnants of water puddles in it!!! The mechanic had bad luck with the replacement however. First one sent out was bad and caused mechanic to chase his tell and waste money having it reflashed (he buys ecus that are supposedly pre-flashed for you car so there is no need to take it to the dealer). After a week and tail-chasing, he finally ordered a different ecu. This one got the van started, but it showed evap and transmission codes...and in fact transmission issues prevented the van from being driven. After another week of tail-chasing, mechanic paid someone to come onsite and re-flash it. And like magic, van is running like new again. No DTC codes showing up at all!
The GM passcode security is likely what is causing your no-start. It sounds exactly like mine. Starts, dies in a second or less. The security cuts power to fuel pump. A bad ecu (computer) can cause the car to think it's being stolen, basically, and since the passkey mode fails, it cuts off power to the fuel pump.
One important clue we had was that a code scanner could not communicate with the ecu. If you don't have one, you can likely rent one cheap at a local parts store. If you also can't find one that will communicate with your computer, then almost certainly your ecu is bad. There are places that sell these ecus online already flashed. But as my mechanic found out, there is often a "fine print" warning that the computer "may" need to be re-flashed. My mechanic had to reflash the new ones twice at $150 a pop. He wanted me to pay for the second, I ultimately agreed to pay 1/2 of the second but I'm not happy about it and probably won't give him any more business. It certainly wasn't my fault he got a bad computer and it was his choice on the source. Knowing what I know now, and how easy it is to change the computer out, I would have done this repair on my own by ordering the ecu online from a place that programs it based on your vin #.
Good luck
September 18th, 2013, 2:44 PM
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fidde74,
Do you mean your radiator fan or fan for heater/ac? If it's the one for the heater and a/c, mind did the same thing, and was the first symptom prior to the no-start condition. Mine is fixed by the way...your message has jogged my memory to get online and post what fixed mine in case it helps others.
Regarding the fan (for the heater and a/c)...there is a resistor in the engine compartment on the blower mother plastic housing that, if it goes bad, will cause the fan to come on even with the ignition turned off....which can lead to a dead battery. This is what I encountered. Resister is fairly cheap (~$35) and real easy to replace. In my case, however, that was just the first in a long chain of things that went bad. But it should be fixed first. Like yours, my van would start and run for just a second.
In my case it turned out to be a bad ECU (engine computer). On this van it is placed in a very bad place and it is easy for water to find it's way into it if the seal is compromised, as it was in mine. When the mechanic opened it, he could see remnants of water puddles in it!!! The mechanic had bad luck with the replacement however. First one sent out was bad and caused mechanic to chase his tell and waste money having it reflashed (he buys ecus that are supposedly pre-flashed for you car so there is no need to take it to the dealer). After a week and tail-chasing, he finally ordered a different ecu. This one got the van started, but it showed evap and transmission codes...and in fact transmission issues prevented the van from being driven. After another week of tail-chasing, mechanic paid someone to come onsite and re-flash it. And like magic, van is running like new again. No DTC codes showing up at all!
The GM passcode security is likely what is causing your no-start. It sounds exactly like mine. Starts, dies in a second or less. The security cuts power to fuel pump. A bad ecu (computer) can cause the car to think it's being stolen, basically, and since the passkey mode fails, it cuts off power to the fuel pump.
One important clue we had was that a code scanner could not communicate with the ecu. If you don't have one, you can likely rent one cheap at a local parts store. If you also can't find one that will communicate with your computer, then almost certainly your ecu is bad. There are places that sell these ecus online already flashed. But as my mechanic found out, there is often a "fine print" warning that the computer "may" need to be re-flashed. My mechanic had to reflash the new ones twice at $150 a pop. He wanted me to pay for the second, I ultimately agreed to pay 1/2 of the second but I'm not happy about it and probably won't give him any more business. It certainly wasn't my fault he got a bad computer and it was his choice on the source. Knowing what I know now, and how easy it is to change the computer out, I would have done this repair on my own by ordering the ecu online from a place that programs it based on your vin #.
Good luck
Do you mean your radiator fan or fan for heater/ac? If it's the one for the heater and a/c, mind did the same thing, and was the first symptom prior to the no-start condition. Mine is fixed by the way...your message has jogged my memory to get online and post what fixed mine in case it helps others.
Regarding the fan (for the heater and a/c)...there is a resistor in the engine compartment on the blower mother plastic housing that, if it goes bad, will cause the fan to come on even with the ignition turned off....which can lead to a dead battery. This is what I encountered. Resister is fairly cheap (~$35) and real easy to replace. In my case, however, that was just the first in a long chain of things that went bad. But it should be fixed first. Like yours, my van would start and run for just a second.
In my case it turned out to be a bad ECU (engine computer). On this van it is placed in a very bad place and it is easy for water to find it's way into it if the seal is compromised, as it was in mine. When the mechanic opened it, he could see remnants of water puddles in it!!! The mechanic had bad luck with the replacement however. First one sent out was bad and caused mechanic to chase his tell and waste money having it reflashed (he buys ecus that are supposedly pre-flashed for you car so there is no need to take it to the dealer). After a week and tail-chasing, he finally ordered a different ecu. This one got the van started, but it showed evap and transmission codes...and in fact transmission issues prevented the van from being driven. After another week of tail-chasing, mechanic paid someone to come onsite and re-flash it. And like magic, van is running like new again. No DTC codes showing up at all!
The GM passcode security is likely what is causing your no-start. It sounds exactly like mine. Starts, dies in a second or less. The security cuts power to fuel pump. A bad ecu (computer) can cause the car to think it's being stolen, basically, and since the passkey mode fails, it cuts off power to the fuel pump.
One important clue we had was that a code scanner could not communicate with the ecu. If you don't have one, you can likely rent one cheap at a local parts store. If you also can't find one that will communicate with your computer, then almost certainly your ecu is bad. There are places that sell these ecus online already flashed. But as my mechanic found out, there is often a "fine print" warning that the computer "may" need to be re-flashed. My mechanic had to reflash the new ones twice at $150 a pop. He wanted me to pay for the second, I ultimately agreed to pay 1/2 of the second but I'm not happy about it and probably won't give him any more business. It certainly wasn't my fault he got a bad computer and it was his choice on the source. Knowing what I know now, and how easy it is to change the computer out, I would have done this repair on my own by ordering the ecu online from a place that programs it based on your vin #.
Good luck
September 19th, 2013, 7:22 AM
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Fedde74,
The resistor for the heater is normally called the "right" side in the U.S., or the passenger side. Yes, you will find two wire going to it. Maybe two screws holding it into the fan housing. That was maybe $35 for a new one. I sometimes find my Volvo's heater fan blowing at random times when the key is out...probably the same thing.
In my Chevy's ecu failure, the resistor went first. Don't know if it's a coincidence or not....the ecu immediately after or perhaps at the same time. Again, we found signs of water in the ecu. It's in a BAD location, and the seals apparently don't keep water out very well over the years. I told my mechanic to seal it externally, and he did on the first one he put in, but swapped out and re-flashed the thing so many times he didn't seal the last one he put in. I plan to do that myself to prevent future problems.
The resistor for the heater is normally called the "right" side in the U.S., or the passenger side. Yes, you will find two wire going to it. Maybe two screws holding it into the fan housing. That was maybe $35 for a new one. I sometimes find my Volvo's heater fan blowing at random times when the key is out...probably the same thing.
In my Chevy's ecu failure, the resistor went first. Don't know if it's a coincidence or not....the ecu immediately after or perhaps at the same time. Again, we found signs of water in the ecu. It's in a BAD location, and the seals apparently don't keep water out very well over the years. I told my mechanic to seal it externally, and he did on the first one he put in, but swapped out and re-flashed the thing so many times he didn't seal the last one he put in. I plan to do that myself to prevent future problems.
August 16th, 2016, 12:15 AM
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Ecm
I had the same issue. The 20 amp fuse in the engine compartment drivers side kept blowing right after it would start for a few seconds. Now I replaced the ECM and had it reflashed, The circuit that provides power to the fuel pump also Powers the ecm. This is likely why the fuel pump didn't activate. I conducted a lot of research on this. My advice is replace the ecm and have it flashed by a person who knows how to do this. The manual also has instructions but make sure you have a good timer.Reflashing the ecm is a very precise process. Did you check the 20 amp fuse??? Good luck.
Paul Garcia
Aztec Home Services Llc
Wichita Kansas USA
Paul Garcia
Aztec Home Services Llc
Wichita Kansas USA
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