When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Wind chill only determines how fast you get to the low temp and does not lower the temperature itself.
Correct. Wind chill is a velocity (speed) at which the temp change.
But MMjoe statement telling that sun over the black rubber will make the temp reading higher than the real external temp is also true.
Normally an external temp sensor is most of the time located lower front of the car next to the grille area. Well hidden from direct sunlight.
Cleaned my MAF sensor. I was having some weird acceleration issues and some inconsistent throttle response issues. I attributed it to to my (brand new) transmission because that's how it felt. Got some CRC MAF cleaner and cleaned it. The sensor wires were visibly dirty. All of the acceleration and throttle response issues have disappeared and I can tell a huge difference in overall performance. No telling when (if even) they were cleaned last, but this will become a part of my regular maintenance.
I think there were alot of shortcuts taken in the maintenance care of this van by the previous company. Also, we have heavy road salt here for the snow/ice, then it dries out and becomes airborne resembling a dustcloud. I try to avoid these areas of town as much as possible but some times I can't. I know the air filter catches alot of it but I guess some might make it through. Or it could just be 170k miles of never being cleaned.
I finished the install of my 7 pin trailer brake connector (2019 express 3500). Got the 7 pin in. bumper mount, wires to front, with breakers to fuse box, wired and installed takonsha trailer brake p2, and everything is good to go. first family trip with new van and trailer in about a month.
Had the dealer install the FAST IDLE RPO option UF3 (Note only works on 2008 up Express with 6.0L engine and equipped with K34 cruise control)
Installed a Go Rhino push bar (did this a month ago) and now installed LED light bar and some smaller side lights for night time remote camping/trailer backing. Really helps to see what is next to you while reversing and cutting the wheel every which way
Also installed some relays so I could either run the LED bar independently such as a work light or driving off road at night and another two relays so that if I choose I can have the LED bar come on automatically when I select the high beams and then turn off automatically when I select low beams.
I did some other things to but Ill post later when I have the pics.
Last edited by Garner Ames; February 8th, 2021 at 2:44 PM.
Finally fixed my exhaust leak. Driver's side rear exhaust manifold bolt snapped off flush with the block. The noise has been getting worse. I didn't want to use this clamp but also can't afford to not have the van for 1-3 days while it's in the shop (can't do it myself right now). Seeing as it it was the only broken bolt, this $24 clamp was the right solution for me. It took me all of 15 minutes to install and the leak is gone. There are alot of cheap ones on eBay but they look thin/flimsy. This Dorman one is definitely heavy and made well. Dorman part number 917-107. Valve cover gaskets are next.
I decided to open up my old oil filter. (ACDelco PF48e installed at GM dealership)
There's nothing new or interesting in it. You can find tons of pictures on the internet of gutted oil filters, and sensational videos claiming this brand of filter is better than another. But they are bullsh*t. They invariably discuss the intricacies of the materials, manufacturing and construction techniques in the putting the filter together. But it's completely irrelevant. Unless my filter falls off, explodes, implodes or leaks, IDGAF if it has this spring or the other, paper or plastic, silicone or rubber. Show me what matters. An oil filter has one main job. Filter the oil.
There is only one absolute way to judge the performance of an oil filter, and that is to analyze the content of motor oil in a car, using the oil filter, under real world conditions. I have yet to find such an analysis. But I did find an interesting website from 2011 that did an excellent job. Here it is: Oil Filter Comparison Study - GM Truck Central
In that study, fresh oil was mixed with microscopic aluminum particles of known size and composition. The heated oil was forced through discs of filter media at pressures used in car engines. Then the leftover contamination in the oil was measured, and the filter elements were photographed and graded. The 31 oil filter brands were then ranked by how well they filtered.
I did not replace my oil filter with another OEM, and here's why: In the study, the ACDelco filter got an 'F' in filtering, and came in 2nd to last overall. This is a photo of the filter paper itself (left) and the collected particles that made it through the filter. (right):
And the ACDelco filters are not cheap to buy here locally.
I bought a NAPA ProSelect oil filter for $4. (NSF 27060). NAPA is a 2 min drive away. In the study, the NAPA filter got a decent 'C+' in filtering, and ranked 6th overall. In the same class as some premium high priced filters. It filters much better than what GM gives you, and its excellent value for the money. The filtering perfomance is VISIBLY better:
Anyway here are my photos of the Delco filter:
The core is plastic (cage looking thing). They claim that it's so that metal doesn't come in contact with the clean oil side of the filter. We now know it doesn't matter because you'll have junk floating in your oil anyway. I think it's also so they can reuse them.
The filter element is roughly 102 square inches (657 sq. cm). I didn't see any metal particles visible to the naked eye embedded in the media. Both sides looked the same to me.
I went through another filter (NAPA), so I tore it apart and compared it the the factory Delco filter.
I installed the torque app, upgraded to pro when the basic version didn't include the trans temp I wanted most. With an old obd2 Bluetooth module from a few years back, I connected and can now see trans fluid temp, along with tach, MPG, outside temp, (and a clock to boot). I can't find tire pressures, but I wouldn't mind a little row of tire pressures along the bottom. Perfect pressure improves millage (slightly).
I hate to start a new thread so I will ask here first. Does anyone have a suggestion on a roof rack/basket. Desirables (in order): as long and wide as possible, strong, 6-8 inch height, low to the roof, minimal floor gaps, black.
January 27th, 2021, 12:20 PM
