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Hello Everyone,
Just found this forum and looks like an awesone sight. I'm having a har dtime solving a problem that is just driving me absolutely crazy. The two doors on the side of my express van continue to send and open alarm while I'm driving and I know the doors are shut. The doors continally lock and unlock and the BING BING BING BING alarm goes off every 3-4 seconds while driving. So a few days ago it just wouldnt stop, so when I got home I took the door switch out (the plunger type switch) cut the wire and twisted the wires together, taped them up and BINGO!!! Problem solved
Well it was for a day or so and now it's back ( I don't know how) Only now the interior light wont go off either which didnt happen before.
I'm not a mechanic but I've done my share of back yard brakes, tune ups and other small stuff. I really really really want this alarm to go away. Anyone else ever had this problem???
Thanks in advance for reading and any suggestions!
DOOR AJAR SWITCH:
Uncover your BCM (passenger side under dash). Unplug connectors X6 and X7. Test continuity between X6-Pin 10 and ground (should be grey/black wire), and X7-Pin 23 and ground (should be tan wire)
If they're open then you have a broken connection somewhere in your harness.
You can also probe the same wires in the door harness connector under the the driver side kickplate to isolate the location better.
The diagram will also tell you which wires to probe to see if the power lock switch circuit is getting shorted.
Last edited by mountainmanjoe; Apr 26, 2019 at 1:46 PM.
Thank you. I will try that. Also there is no accordion rubber door harness on these doors...only the back cargo door. Is there somewhere else I can look?
Just off of memory, the contact plates are for the power door locks and the jamb button is the for the light/door ajar sensor. Check the schematics as suggested, but just my two cents. Oh yeah, you really should check those schematics, because if there is two wires.. twisting them together may not solve your problem, you might just make them worse. Often times there is no 'power' in such a switch. Instead, they take the ground from the car body and via the switch, they either send the ground down the wire or they do not. Think of it as hooking a light bulb up to the positive of the battery, then running a long wire to a switch which is grounded at the other terminal. Grounding the control wire completes the circuit and the light bulb turns on. This way there is no short circuits.