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Battery shorted now electrical problems

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Old September 5th, 2011, 7:04 PM
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Default Battery shorted now electrical problems

I have a 95 G30 60K miles. I use it for my stage production business and I need it back on the road quick. Several days ago someone slammed on brakes in front of me. When I hit the brakes the battery cradle went from rust and the battery fell against the body and shorted out. I tried to start the van a few times before I realized what had happened and as I noticed the guages acting up I realized and quickly jumped out and moved the battery back into place. It cranked up and we drove off and all was good for a few minutes. The tranny quit shifting and I pulled over restarted and it worked again. Later I noticed the voltage was low. It quit shifting again later when I was using the headlights. I assumed it would be the voltage regulator or the alternator so today I started troubleshooting. I swapped the battery from another van I have and turned on the headlights with the van off. the guages immediately acted up again and it wont crank. with the key off I checked the voltage at the battery on the negative and the car body and both were 12.5 I checked the voltage at the alternator and it was around 7 volts. What might cause this voltage drop? I found that the ground from the block to the body under the doghouse is severed as well as the small ground wire from the battery to the headlight. I ran out of daylight so I thought I would put a line out until I can get back at it in the morning. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Old September 5th, 2011, 7:08 PM
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Also the lights will not work now. They worked after the accident but now nothing works no lights no crank. It does turn over
Old September 5th, 2011, 7:32 PM
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You toasted the alternator. I'd also suggest leaving the battery unhooked, Well, unhooking the battery to replace the alternator should reset the ecm. hopefully if the ecm needs reset that should do it.
Old September 5th, 2011, 8:03 PM
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That was my first thought but would that cause the lights and other accessories not to work when the key is in the off position. I would have thought the battery would power the lights even if the alternator was toast. I assume you are saying the voltage regulator in the alternator is bad therefore disrupting the voltage to other systems as well?
Old September 5th, 2011, 8:11 PM
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Originally Posted by primesuspect
That was my first thought but would that cause the lights and other accessories not to work when the key is in the off position. I would have thought the battery would power the lights even if the alternator was toast. I assume you are saying the voltage regulator in the alternator is bad therefore disrupting the voltage to other systems as well?
The voltage reg is in the alternator. If you have 12.5 with the key off, great. When you start it with no alternator output, it is on battery only, and that won't last long. You probably popped the bridge rectifer in the alternator, key switch has to be on for guages ect. For the lights to "not work" with the ignition off is too much a drain on the battery for them.
Voltmeter reads a potential difference, thats not load.
Old September 5th, 2011, 8:47 PM
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The battery is fully charged and has been load tested It is not the same battery that shorted out. There are no lights working. No brake lights, headlights, interior, none. However everything worked after the short and for two days it has worked but the voltage was low. Today I turned the headlights on with the engine off but the key in the on position. I wanted to see what happened to the voltage when I turned the lights on without the alternator running. This is when the guages flopped around and the everything quit working. It acted like there was another short but when I checked the battery there was no load and no heat from the terminals or wiring. The terminals are good and clean with a solid connection but nothing works except it will turn over. When I had the initial problems I felt it was the alternator or V / R but I wanted to be sure so I started by checking wiring and did the battery swap. I thought maybe I had not properly secure the terminals after the battery swap but I checked it out and then I noticed it would turn over. There is also a clicking sound in the steering column when the breaks pedal is touched like a loud relay sound. I don't know. I hate this happened to my low mileage van. I take such good care of it.
Old September 5th, 2011, 8:51 PM
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Originally Posted by primesuspect
The battery is fully charged and has been load tested It is not the same battery that shorted out. There are no lights working. No brake lights, headlights, interior, none. However everything worked after the short and for two days it has worked but the voltage was low. Today I turned the headlights on with the engine off but the key in the on position. I wanted to see what happened to the voltage when I turned the lights on without the alternator running. This is when the guages flopped around and the everything quit working. It acted like there was another short but when I checked the battery there was no load and no heat from the terminals or wiring. The terminals are good and clean with a solid connection but nothing works except it will turn over. When I had the initial problems I felt it was the alternator or V / R but I wanted to be sure so I started by checking wiring and did the battery swap. I thought maybe I had not properly secure the terminals after the battery swap but I checked it out and then I noticed it would turn over. There is also a clicking sound in the steering column when the breaks pedal is touched like a loud relay sound. I don't know. I hate this happened to my low mileage van. I take such good care of it.
For what it is worth, replace the alternator, and go from there
Old September 5th, 2011, 8:53 PM
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Much appreciated. I will let you know if it works.
Old September 6th, 2011, 3:08 PM
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The alternator and VR are good. The positive input to the alternator is around 7 amps. Should be 12.5. I am going now to check fuse wire links to the solenoid on the starter but outside of that I am at a loss
Old September 6th, 2011, 3:15 PM
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Originally Posted by primesuspect
The alternator and VR are good. The positive input to the alternator is around 7 amps. Should be 12.5. I am going now to check fuse wire links to the solenoid on the starter but outside of that I am at a loss
You posted this :and both were 12.5 I checked the voltage at the alternator and it was around 7 volts: Now is this amp out put or voltage at the battery/positive?


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