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Electric Window Issues

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Old Aug 3, 2019 | 2:08 PM
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Default Electric Window Issues

When I get out of work today I went to roll up the passenger side window with the driver side switch but the window would not respond. I tried to use the passenger side switch and still the window would not respond. the window will go down fine with either switch but will not go up with either switch. A new motor was purchased but before I buttoned everything back up I checked the motor only to find that neither switch will work the new motor going in the up position.

I would have to assume I have lost the ground for the window motor to go up. Does anyone know where the ground is located?
2000 Chevy Express 1500
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Old Aug 3, 2019 | 9:11 PM
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Next to my signature is GM Upfitters. Download your schematics for your truck. For my ease, you can look here: https://dan.berladyn.online/gm/gmt61...power-windows/
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Old Aug 3, 2019 | 9:49 PM
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I put the new motor in anyway and it still wasn't working. I moved the wire looms around and played with the drivers side button and it came back to life. Passenger side button worked again also. I'm baffled.... figured a ground came loose. I dont mind though.
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 1:38 PM
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You haven't solved the problem unless you found it and fixed it, or eliminated any possible weak point. Check each connector for corrosion. Check inside the loom, where possible, and look for broken wires.

BTW, there should be no "ground" in a door. Having electricity trying to travel through the hinge is iffy at best. Anything electric in a door has both positive and negative wired to it.
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 2:43 PM
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What year is your truck? There is a "recall" on the switch assembly, the drivers door. It sounds however like your problem is loose/dirty/damaged connections.
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 8:52 PM
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You must have jinxed me. My passenger window will go down, it will not go up. All the wires are correct. This is driving me nuts.

Looking at the schematic, I am suspecting the drivers switch which I have had that panel off for several days too I've checked it with a multi-meter, but I really need two people.

Last edited by dberladyn; Aug 4, 2019 at 9:07 PM.
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 10:53 PM
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There was a recall on my '16.
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by StanVan
There was a recall on my '16.

They mail me continually. This is the second or third, maybe even fourth Recall Notice regarding this van. I am not going to the dealership just for this. Send me the part or I will go when I absolutely have to for something else, which is... likely not much. Maybe that whole new drive-train, but I don't want to see a dealership. The longer I go on, the more I realise (unless it's mechanical) I do not need them.
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 11:50 PM
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My drivers window was down without power for several days as the truck as parked, battery disconnected. One night here I heard something. I looked outside and a Summer shower. Just raining like crazy. I thought about the truck and then I said **** on it. It's no stranger to water. However this switch, this is exactly what the recall is about. The switch, water and problems.. even a potential fire hazard. I love how everything is so serviceable. I took the switch out, removing it from the trim plate, then took it apart down to the circuit board. If you could sketch your own PCB's and solder, you could make both windows "one touch" I suspect. Anyways, I can dismantled the actual switch on the board. It looks serviceable, but I am tired. Too tired even to take a photo.

I will not touch it till tomorrow. I'll check it all out with a multi-meter. If I am fresh, alert and on the ball I might find the problem elsewhere. Otherwise I am suspecting stuck or corroded switch contacts. This switch provides ground for the passenger door which explains why I can only go in one direction. A contact in this switch is dirty. Too be sure, I will check everything else in the morning. I do not open the pcb part and lose a spring or something. Things you do when you are tired.. not good.
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Old Aug 5, 2019 | 5:18 PM
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My problem was not the switch, it was the Tan Wire in the Connector to the from the Door to the Body. To "save time", while I monkey'ed with things, I left the Blue Lock Shield out of the Connector. Anyways, the Pin did not sit right and it was not making proper contact. I have spare wire from two identical wiring harness'es so my trouble shooting abilities are greatly eased. What I did was to take a jumper wire and I jumped the Light Blue and Ground on the Driver's Door Switch. The Passenger Window would go Down via the Passenger Door Switch. Then I removed that Wire and jumped again on the Drivers Switch Connector. This time I jumped the Tan to Ground. Trying the Passenger Door Switch, the Window would no go Up until I fixed the pin in the Connector from the Door to the Body. Make sure your Pins are seated properly. Make sure you use that little Blue Lock Shield. My problem is fixed. I can now move on. I suspect your issues are similar.
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