I usually only get mad at things once, but as you may be able to tell from my title I'm seriously considering burning my 'duck" to the ground. Originally, I thought the day it broke down was not going to be a huge deal. NEWP.. RONGO!!!! The day it started to the path of hate I pulled 21 codes. Ever thing from U0100-P02272.
That was on September 3, 2020. This morning I pulled 7 codes. The bank 2/2 is having tons of issues. Ok np.
Here's the kicker, every one of these codes only have one thing in common. The P0307 code cylinder 7 misfire.
My husband keeps trying to tell me there's nothing wrong with the vehicle, and I'm crazy.
But call me stupid, I don't think a flashing check engine is a spectacular idea. So here's what I've done so far.

Replaced ALL the plugs (none iridium ) and I gapped them at .40 NOT AT .60. Changed all wires. Got a new ignition coil. Cleaned all injectors by hand, and replaced all o-rings In the injectors, new valve cover gaskets (valve cover leak, small), listened to injectors w/ long screwdriver, fresh top grade gas. Fuel pressure test, cleaned the MAF, ECM, PCM, THE ENTIRE INTAKE, check every hose and line for Vacuum
Leaks, checked all fuses, filters, I have not however changed the engine oil Now for what it does...
1. Idles very rough
2. Check engine light doesn't come on until optimal temp.
3. Thick plumes of blue-ish smoke that smell.
4. Smell of burnt oil occasionally.
5. Check engine light blinks at 3200rmps
6. Hard shifts like crazy.
7. Sluggish.
8. Gets 7.8MPG.
9. Only throws P0307 code.
10. Rpms jump from 800---> 400rpms
11. The oil pressure gage doesn't get up to even 40 @ 3200 RPMS.
12. It has 347,665K om. On this engine.

Please help me, I am at the end of my knowledge and I'm ready to set her on fire and push her big white butt off a cliff.

 

Have you tried to swap the coil from cylinder #7 for another one and see if the misfire stay on #7 or move to the other cylinder ?
Another good thing to do would be a compression test.

 

Yes, I have done both. I have done so many tests to this stupid thing. I may have forgotten to mention all the other things I've done.
here is the new list of bs she's pulling now.
Start up: hard start -(cold or warm weather)
Blueish smoke alternates with white, the exhaust smell like moonshine 1/4 of the time.
Rough idle:all the time
No check engine light AT ALL during idle.
Check Engine Light Flashes: at 1200-3200 RPMs depends on her tantrum.
The in-dash info screen now says low fuel with 3/4 a tank
So the on the OBDII says 0² voltage high, heat circuit yada yada yada. Cylinder 7 misfire.
When I check the freeze frame data LMAO 1/3 say -94.9 switch to .08. And 2/4 say .90. This damn van is possessed. Oh yeah, and some A-hole WELDED (not even joking, ded serious) the oil drain plug into the oil pan.
I have swapped the coil to not only a different cylinder but a different bank. Still 307 then the wire to different coil. And replaced the spark plug 2x. I originally thought it was because I didn't use an iridium plug, but all of them would have missed. I checked and rechecked the gap to be .40 and NOT .60 like 3 parts store told me...
Oh and btw when I tested that O² sensor (bank 2 sen 2) I did not get ANY resistance from the heated part. Unless I did the test wrong. I tested both pins with two white wires on a 4wire harness... I'm getting frustrated because im getting tired of being called dumb.

 

You have any squirrels, rats or mice that could have eaten through your wires? How do you change the oil with the plug welded?

 

Lmao @ F.Toast, God I wish it was as simple as gremlins in the engine. But unfortunately no, not a chance in Hades. We have a ton of cats where I live and a buttload of dogs. As for the oil drain plug, I pretty much think the previous owner must have pissed off the last oil change place. I've seen it tac welded before as a bad joke in an old garage I worked at as a prank on the owner, but that was all in good fun.

 

I know it is vague and general but might worth a try to perform some checks suggested here ?
Particularly battery voltage. Check if you have at least 12V when engine is not running and at least 13.5V when running.
Let us know the result
https://www.fs1inc.com/blog/4-easy-s...BoCg2wQAvD_BwE

 

So, I had a conversation with the duck, (vans name) and she told me the first compression test was wrong. So instead of doing the tool rental thing just like before I borrowed a kit from my buddy...90psi in the cylinder 7... 1/2 tsp motor oil in the hole... First crank, 125 psi... Specfingtacular. Piston rings in cylinder 7. Not gonna put that ring seal crap in there. I've seen what it does, but popping a new set of rings on by tomorrow for my new job? BAHAHAHA yeah sure. So I guess I'm taking a bus.
still got tons of other bs still wrong with her but now she knows I'm listening to her.
FYI- THE first test kit I used was slightly broken. So, if in doubt, measure 2x cut 1

 

Yep 90 psi is quite low. This for sure can cause a misfire.
Nice job is awaiting..... You seems handy enough to do this right ?

 

.Lmao... So I started her up today, little hard start. Ok no big. She starts flashing her CEL right away like always. I hear a slight tic so I stop to check the oil... Ok get this, FULL charge registering 13.8 volts, turn the key. The battery (still connected to the car) drains to 4v. But... It doesn't even click. Like as if I had a WOT!!! Not even a sound from the FP or the Starter solenoid. Nothing at all. So I'm going to carry the battery the 1/4 mile up this hill to napa and have it charged. AGAIN. The stupid part is this is the 3x this month. It holds a charge fine. But yesterday I noticed that when I was driving to test it the rpm's (because of misfire in C-7) the lights were dim/ bright in sync with the idle. When the rpm's went up the voltage went up (16v). At idle the voltage went down (12v) At this point my brain is fried. Anyone? Oh and yes, I did check ground wires from battery to frame and frame to engine block. The only thing I can think of is that damn O2 (bank 2 sen2) and it's issue of too high and too low voltage at the same time causing a parasitic draw, or the voltage regulator in the alternator has gone to hell.

 

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