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Cheers have a 1996 g30 5.7l, need help on A/C system. need a plumbing connection diagram, this is a RV and accurate wiring diagram for A/C. trying to order full kit, it has rear dual pipe connector, most books show top connector. It did run when I first bought it, AC clutch works, pressure is in spec, but condenser is not cold. Replaced high/low limit switches, is there anything else I missed. appreciate any advise.J Cloudfather
Sorry for posting in wrong area.
The compressor has pipe fitting on back, this is a G30 5.l7 1996 RV, looks like we have to use 1995 A/C parts as 1996 on use top fitting. Its this right? Is it a four seasons or another compressor?
Currently, checked A/C control, heats, defrosts, A/C clutch engages, air flows via vents, air is cool but not cold. A/C recharge kit show top of green range and steady when A/C and engine are running. The condenser is mildly cold but not frosty. i checked A/C vac lines, wiring they are working and no air leaks. So what are we missing? Since compressor is at correct pressure when engaged, does that mean its working? how do you tell if condenser is bad? Thanks for any help,
J
charging kits are not accurate. you can't be sure the system is properly filled because pressure and temperature are proportional. Have the system charged by weight.
The box store charging kits are referred to as death kits by AC techs, they have sealers, enhancers and other goop you do not want in your AC system. Is possible to do your own AC but takes lots of time on the internet and a couple hundred dollars in tools. Plus a trip to someone with a set up to recover the refrigerant in the system.
Thanks Tech 2. I just picked up gauge set, hoses/couplers, UV kit, 4 cfm vacume pump for gauge set, assorted fittings, T valve for charge cans. Looking at a A/C flush kit, have plasma cutter compressor which removes water. With engine off and connection valve open both high and low show zero. However I ohmed out the A/C sensor on the separator and its open, since its in series with the A/C clutch, the clutch of course will not engage. I am guessing the system must have some pressure before the sensor will close and allow the clutch to pull in. This was working week ago so, suspect leak. I plan to pickup 8 cans of 12 oz R134a, reading so far suggests system if its been replaced (compressor, separator, condenser, hoses, sensors, and radiator A/C section) will need 48oz of R134a, 8 oz PAG150 split 50% in compressor, 50% in the separator. I plan to try to flush the cooling condenser in the heater box, using A/C flush, 1 hr of 40psi dry air, same with new parts. I will drain new compressor and measure the amount and compare to spec. Of course on reassembly, install new seals, then do the vacuum to -30 on the gauge set, check back in 1hr to see if we have leaks. The hit the center of manifold purge valve to release the vacuum. Since previous steps we oiled compressor and separator, we then will do charge. I see lots of different approaches, what is the right way. Am I on track so far? Appreciate the help.
question since I am replacing the whole A/C system, hoses, condensers, evaporators, receivers, sensors, do I need to flush new parts? A new evaporator is about same price as flush kit.
Thanks for all the tips. Learning a lot. Plan to replace heater, coolant hoses as I will pull radiator when we fix the A/C. Water pump is new. Plan to wire brush all the rust off and do coat of primer and 2 coats of color to insure will kill the rust. It only has rust in front engine area. J
do not need to flush new parts. if the old compressor seized replacing the evaporator, condensor and accumulator are a good idea. Make sure you replace the accumulator as that is the part that filters and dries the system.
you need to do something called oil balancing. the entire system has a total capacity of system oil...if the system is low on oil the compressor will seize. find the service info that states how much oil to add for each new component
May 23rd, 2023, 8:19 PM
Need AC schematic
