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re: o 2 sensor removal. go on you tubes . (get the premium subscription for a month, you won't get d bombed hill trying to watch a 15 minute video. ) there is a video by a guy who says some of the o 2 sensors are more easily removed when the exhaust system is warm. (that makes no sense to me because metals expand w heat. maybe he socket for the o 2 sensor expands when it's warm then you can get the señor out more easily, I dunno. the videos by south main auto are especially good. nd remember
watched a few videos came up w/ this procedure however these values are for the rear O2, which I believe are the same as the fronts, bc there suposed to be the same then the engine control computer conpares the 2.
Test O2 sensors wiring
Lite blue wire -0.01VDC
Pink should have battery voltage 12VDC
Purple/white trace ½ volt .43VDC
Tan 0.04VDC
from bottom I can't remove the O2 w/ a crestent wrench and small cheater pipe, it's not leverage I'm lacking it's to tight no room to move wrench, maybe the front O2s are removed though the top by removing doghouse.
in addition to slite socket I may need a folding racket which I still don't have.
edit: while under there all the wiring was attached nicely ontop of frame away from the hot exhaust pipe, after I get sensor installed I'll have to figure out how wires where secured to frame.wires where in good shape no burns thanks mountainmanjoe excellent advice as usale.
Originally Posted by MitchM
re: o 2 sensor removal. go on you tubes . (get the premium subscription for a month, you won't get d bombed hill trying to watch a 15 minute video. ) there is a video by a guy who says some of the o 2 sensors are more easily removed when the exhaust system is warm. (that makes no sense to me because metals expand w heat. maybe he socket for the o 2 sensor expands when it's warm then you can get the señor out more easily, I dunno. the videos by south main auto are especially good. nd remember
aJoe says to clean it not just tighten it.
I'm not apposed to cleaning the carbon deposits off the O2 however doesn't that require a ultrasonic parts cleaning tool? I'm just a bolton Guy w/ limited tools. thanks MitchM I will check out south main auto.
edit: heating up the exhaust then work on it no no not for me thats a good way to burn the skin.
Last edited by the Brain; November 27th, 2022 at 12:17 PM.
metal SWELLS with heat. In all directions. Inward and outward. The who point of using heat is that different parts expand and contract at different rates when heated and cooled. This breaks them free for you to loosen. (Nothing to do with making them bigger or smaller). I'm not sure exhaust gets hot enough to make a difference though.
Originally Posted by MitchM
get the premium subscription
or, get an ad blocker for your browser, and you don't have to watch ads, or pay anything.
Originally Posted by MitchM
the videos by south main auto are especially good.
SMA is an excellent channel. And you always see Eric break out his torch, and get those exhaust bolts red hot before hitting them with the impact wrench.
Originally Posted by MitchM
Joe says to clean it not just tighten it.
well he said it was clogged up. I can't imagine that a sensor intended to measure gases is going to work very well when the gasses can't get to it.
All that carbon isn't a good sign, by the way. The engine is probably running too rich, and the cats might shot.
these values are for the rear O2, which I believe are the same as the fronts, bc there suposed to be the same then the engine control computer conpares the 2.
Incorrect.
They should be different. That's how the computer knows the catalytic converter is working. There should be pulses of oxygen in the exhaust stream immediately after the engine. There should be none after the cats because the oxygen has been chemically reacted.
Originally Posted by the Brain
Test O2 sensors wiring...
the first thing you'll want to do is graph the live data from the O2 sensors.
Originally Posted by the Brain
I can't remove the O2 w/ a crestent wrench and small cheater pipe
the only thing adjustable wrenches are good for, is rounding off nuts and bolts. Especially on stubborn, seized, rusty exhaust parts. Get yourself a proper O2 sensor socket. They don't cost that much.
Originally Posted by the Brain
I may need a folding racket which I still don't have.
You can do almost anything with the right extensions and a u-joint
Originally Posted by the Brain
doesn't that require a ultrasonic parts cleaning tool?
I take that advice back. It's better just to replace it. (if that's where the problem lies!)
Originally Posted by the Brain
no no not for me thats a good way to burn the skin.
Mountain man recommended the car wizard you tube and it is an excellent 32 minute read.
One of wizard s tips is using some huge long extensions to get at fittings too tight to access w a standard socket. One of the car wizard s tips was how to do that.
at 140$ an hour OP could buy some of the stuff the wizard recommends . Get that o 2 sensor out !,,
yes I saw the folding racket w/ builtin O2 socket, I imatated it w/ a regular racket an a universal. not enough room was able to turn o2 socket w/ the cresent, a 18mm wrench would have made it less hard. anyway I was able to swap the 02 sensor.
how many engine on/off cycles before the check engine light goes away? my count is 3 ons & offs.haven't driven her yet to see if I get extra power. thanks Guys for advice.