Could someone do me the kindness of telling me where I might find a switched power source to tap for a 2009 Chevy Express van 2500?

Converted manual to power windows but can't find the right place to wire it. It's a travel vehicle so I don't want it on constant power to burn battery while it sits.

Tested all the fuses in the floor console block hoping to use a fuse tap but none are switched. Found one under the steering column and spliced it but it didn't provide enough power and gave me alarms about StabiliTrak so I put that back together and moved on. Spent the better part of a day looking this up and running inside and out but can only do more damage working with nothing but a headlamp.

I've seen a bunch of videos for other vehicles that show a simple pair of connectors, one constant and one switched, but I swear I've got about twenty of those things under my steering column and none are facing convenient directions.

I'm trying to avoid using the under-hood fuses because I don't want to keep punching holes through the firewall, as I've already added aftermarket harness for towing and EBC. I will if I have to unless anyone has better suggestions.

Thank you.

 

how much problem was it to switch over to power windows ?

I have been thinking about it for the passanger side.....

 

Lets.. see on the Factory Fuse panel there is a Relay controlled by the Body Control Module. Simply put, an Accessory Wire runs from the BCM to the Relay in the Fusebox under the seat. This Relay is named the RAP Relay. The RAP Relay then feeds two Pins on Connector Two (X2) underneath the Fusebox. The two Pins are what each Green Wire feeding each side of the Power Windows (Drivers Side, Passenger Side) connect to. It's really simple. You likely just need Pins and a Crimper. Either that, or just buy a Ring Terminal big enough to put under the bolt on the Battery Cable that Feeds the Fuse Box. Make Sure you FUSE the line if you do this. You do not want 125+ Amps on a 12 Gauge Wire. The bonus in going this route is that the Windows will always operate and simplicity.

READ THIS PAGE
https://dan.berladyn.online/gm/gmt61...power-windows/

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READ THIS PAGE TOO:
https://dan.berladyn.online/gm/gmt61...cessory-power/


Maybe this is all too complicated for a beginner. It's not really complicated, but it is intimidating at first.

This Picture is your Fuse Box, Front and Back.




I added all the pins I could so I could enable all the factory options. Even a few of my own options. My Cell Phone Charger / Tablet Charger had it's own fuse in the factory box. If I didn't add a pin, it is simply because I ran out. I am short one relay on this board. The Intermittent Light Relay for adding multiple Intermittent Lights. Lights such as Lights on the Visor. It doesn't matter though, I am pretty sure I am going my own route and abandoning the factory fusebox altogether. I just have to get my rear in gear. For some reason I am just not keen on working. I brought the table saw out today, it just sat there for hours while I decided if I should bother the neighbour's with noise or not.

 

I have a wiring harness and it’s got a fuse, I just need another wire to splice it to for switched power. It’s already working off a jumper. It also works if I feed it into a pin on an 8-pin connector near the parking break but that’s constant. I’ve seen those schematics and my first check was the RAP slot on the cabin floor box because I was hoping to fuse tap it but it’s empty. I’ll get some pictures tomorrow morning.

While id love to take apart my fuse box and tinker around to add functionality, it doesn’t seem necessary for this project that hinges on the end of an exposed red wire.

 

There's really no reason to "need" switched power for those. It'll only draw power when you open/close the window.

 

Unless the windows are open and rain gets on the switch. Which I believe is what that recall is about. It is a Fire Hazard.

It could also draw power if something is holding the switch down. Mind you he states that he is using a fuse. What I wrote above is wrong. He should really use a circuit breaker like the factory does. I wonder what happens if he holds the switch down when the window can no longer move? Does he just burn through fuses?

 

[QUOTE=dberladyn]Lets.. see on the Factory Fuse panel there is a Relay controlled by the Body Control Module. Simply put, an Accessory Wire runs from the BCM to the Relay in the Fusebox under the seat. This Relay is named the RAP Relay.[/QUOTE}

I managed to go out and test every fuse in both the floor box and under the hood, with the power off and again with ignition on. There wasn't a single one that went hot with the ignition on , so maybe I'm just not getting something. I might have to end up adding a toggle switch which is gonna be a huge bummer to activate my windows before using them.

Attaching some pics of my barren floorbox with the one labeled RAP highlighted. I also found another wire, pink one marked in the pic, which goes hot with the ignition. Gonna try to splice that one next but ran out of daylight today. Finally a wider look under my steering column. If you have any suggestions based on that view, or can identify any of that, let me know.

driver seat floor box

switched power

all my stuff

Forgot to mention the switches have LED lights, so that's the leech I'm worried about.

I'll let you know once I get it working. Haha. Seriously though, installation was a breeze, I'm just hung up on wiring.

 

I would NOT splice any wires, especially under the dash, especially for power windows. The Power Window wires are the heaviest in the Fusebox. There's nothing else that requires that much juice (except power seats). None of those circuits, especially at such distances, are designed to carry that load. You have an older design. Your circuit board has a different layout. Look, just do one of two things here.

1.) Unbolt the Battery Cable and the Two Connectors plugged into the back of the fusebox. Remove the Fusebox and take it to a well lit comfortable area. Get a flat screwdriver and take it apart by prying apart the locking tabs. It is so simple to take a apart. If you have half a brain you will not break it. Mentally map and trace the circuit for the RAP circuit. The Pins for the Windows will the Fatter ones, not the Skinnier ones, but not the Super-Fat Upfitter ones meant for Customer Additions. Find a way to plug cables into those Power Window Pins. Also, make sure the circuits are complete. Make sure there is a Circuit Breaker and the power traces through to the Battery Lead. Remember that there is a Relay in the loop too. The RAP Relay.

2.) Skip the Fuse Box and Attach the Power Windows with a Ring Terminal to the Battery Lead / Lug Post of the Fuse Box. Make you install in-line Circuit breakers. 25Amp is what the Factory Installs. Also, your wire should be 12 Gauge I believe.

If you do anything outside of this - you are a waste of my time. No offense.

 

I beg to differ. If I had half a brain, I'd have paid someone to install this for me. Haha. I can take apart a computer motherboard so modifying the fuse box doesn't scare me, but it just doesn't make sense to me that every guide and instructional video for every manufacturer of manual-to-power window conversion kits all say to tap into the wiring under the steering column...but you're telling me to deconstruct my fuse block and add pins to the board. So I'm gonna look into some other channels. I do appreciate your time and won't waste any more of it. Thanks and take care.