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If you don't put the relay on A, you won't have memory/clock issues. Let A handle ECM/BCM stuff.
Right now I have "A" switched OFF. Just as I would with the setup I listed. Anyways, this discussion is now going full circle. It is just going to go in circles. Maybe I will never have problems with batteries again, but it makes absolute sense to me to pull a third battery into Starter Revolution ONLY service. It seems complicated, but it actually simplifies a lot of things. A cool bonus is that there is no dimming of lights or the dash or anything when you turn the key to start. I like that.
Aside from the basic battery under the hood and a house battery, I wouldn't know my head from a hole in the ground. Just please, carry a fire extinguisher and jump box just in case.
There is that Award Winning personality again. This is my truck. I want it to work according the needs that I determine. If that doesn't suit you, please kindly **** off. I know from time to time I have made some posts that might not read well. Some of us have egos. Some of us think we are smarter than we really are. Some of us assume too much. When I post, I generally just want opinions without the garbage. For example, I want someone to look at a schematic and say "If you go with three battery relays on that design, then at least one relay will be drawing power 24/7". I just do not want to read the crap.
As far as a Fire Extinguisher, I am not going to carry one. Maybe one day, but I am not going to carry one just because my truck has automotive batteries in it.
Today I spent another $300 replacing yet another battery and buying another battery relay. I will go with a two relay setup with a dedicated Starter Battery and everything else on the two Deep Cycles. At rest, all batteries will be disengaged from each other. There will be no issues this way. My next step is figuring out 4 gauge wire terminations. I am not going to be able to crimp them satisfactory. I think tomorrow I have a place or two to stop at and then I can rewire my truck. If can get wire terminations that I am happy with, I think I will have a wiring schematic that works for me.
Even further, I do not think I will have to worry about starting my truck ever again. That Starter Battery will be maintained by the relay, it will always be fully charged. With the relays I am using, once at full charge, the charging power automatically gets cut off. I will always have a full battery. I will always have starting power. If I somehow I lose the two other batteries, I will still be able to flip a switch and basically run the truck as factory with one battery. It's perfect. I am happy with it. I will polish a schematic and post it when I am done.
Last edited by dberladyn; July 31st, 2019 at 2:13 AM.
It's all good, freedom is not crime. Do as you please. Nothing personal. I just grew up learning to be prepared one way or another. $h1ts creek is no fun even with a paddle.
It's all good, freedom is not crime. Do as you please. Nothing personal. I just grew up learning to be prepared one way or another. $h1ts creek is no fun even with a paddle.
My comment was not geared towards you. I was reading with you in mind however. I am going to buy some fusible links for the rear batteries.
I bought another crimper today. I certainly hope that is the last crimper I ever buy. I am done buying stuff like that. Anyways, it works great. I was thinking last night that threaded terminals would be better as I would be able to reuse them, but these work great. I am happy.
The Starter Battery is installed. It only connects to the rest of the truck if the truck voltage is over 13-13.9 volts. If the rest of the truck drops below 12-12.8 volts then it disconnects allowing me to have a reserve tank of starting juice. If I am in that situation, I just flip a switch to provide the needed modules with power and start the truck. Looking at the schematics right now, I might not even really need a switch unless I am absolutely dead, I might just connect the starter battery relay to the stater solenoid. This way, whenever you turn the key to start, the battery automatically engages powering the necessary modules. With a near dead Main Battery, turn the key to Ignition On and there's barely any power, turn it to Start and everything comes alive.
Next, I am going to change the way the rear batteries connect. I will add fusible links and I will separate the batteries so that they disconnect from eachother if either drops below 12 - 12.8 volts. Naturally there will be an over-ride switch which maybe will just be the amplifier signal, I don't know yet. Anyways, this way I am happy, I can plug anything in anywhere and not have to worry about back-feeding a battery and causing a fire or running down a battery that is crucial to starting.
I have to buy new battery bolts, these are just temporary. It's interesting that they strip and not the battery. Good Engineering.
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Eaton / Cooper / Sure Power 1314A - 100 Amp Battery Separator. The Start Battery is connected as an Auxiliary Battery.
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I moved my 140 Amp Alternator connection right to here where it splits off connecting to each battery bank. The Connection below the 125Amp Fuse is for the Rear Fuse Box.
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Last edited by dberladyn; July 31st, 2019 at 7:10 PM.
I carry a fire extinguisher, not necessarily for me, but crazy crap happens. I was at a wreck once, where a guy plowed into a garden apartment building, right at where the natural gas meters were. It was a beach town in the winter, so fire department was slow. I didn't have an extinguisher, but a cop came by with one, and kept the meters from catching fire.
I will never need three batteries. But clearly, Dan does. More power to him (pun intended) If my memory serves, He works out of his van. I camp 2 or 3 times a year. I'm making do with a homemade jump box for now. Maybe one day, I'll get a dedicated aux battery.
I carry a fire extinguisher, not necessarily for me, but crazy crap happens. I was at a wreck once, where a guy plowed into a garden apartment building, right at where the natural gas meters were. It was a beach town in the winter, so fire department was slow. I didn't have an extinguisher, but a cop came by with one, and kept the meters from catching fire.
I will never need three batteries. But clearly, Dan does. More power to him (pun intended) If my memory serves, He works out of his van. I camp 2 or 3 times a year. I'm making do with a homemade jump box for now. Maybe one day, I'll get a dedicated aux battery.
Yeah, I am wrong about the extinguisher. I probably have room in the spare tire jack location. Three batteries, 140Amp Alternator... that's a lot of juice when it is live. I wonder if I am approaching a 1000Amps? I must be well over 500.
For me, in the back of my mind is the plan I always wanted. A strong inverter for working right where I park. I only need for five minutes max, but it would save a lot of lugging things I do not want to lug. And clean up would easier. Then there is that sound system I can never quite get installed. Camping is something I would like to do. At least road trips. Power is welcomed for that. I like my electronic devices. I feel better having my cell charge off a Deep Cycle than a Starting Battery. Just another bonus because I have drained batteries merely charging a cell phone and tablet. Nevermind that I that was going to use my laptop in here at one time and I love the idea of a built in coffee maker.
I used a 140 Amp Voltage Sensing Relay in my Dodge, it's been in use for a few years and no problem. There are two versions of this relay, one that will close when either battery is being charge and another version that only closes when one of the batteries is being charge. I have the dual version of the relay so that it closes when the alternator is charging or when I have the 55 amp charger plugged in. This allows the charger to keep all 3 batteries on float during storage. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...relay&_sacat=0
The Dodge has a conventional 12 Volt starting battery and two 6 Volt Trojan T-105 batteries for the coach. It has a 140 Amp alternator and I was popping an 80 amp breaker when the coach batteries were low and I was charging with the alternator so I put in a resetting 80 amp breaker. The new breakers are unproven in my setup but should be OK if they have a reasonable reset time. The van originally had a #10 and a 30 amp resetting breaker for the coach battery but it was just too small and clicked like Morse code. I think it had a starter relay for a contactor too...I don't recall. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...1F-80&_sacat=0
The "new" Chevy has a 12 Volt starting battery, a 12 Volt marine battery, an isolator, a 55 amp charger for the coach, and a trickle charger for the starting battery. It is ridiculous! The alternator wiring was modified to work with the isolator so that is super annoying. It will work for the time being but I'd like to move towards what the Dodge has/had. You can bolt an ONAN 2.8 kW generator to the floor directly behind the differential. There is height and general space with the 3500 but forget about launching boats.
July 30th, 2019, 2:36 PM
