1937 Chevy 216 carburetor problem
May 2nd, 2021, 7:38 PM
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1937 Chevy 216 carburetor problem
Hi! New member here.
I have been working on an all original '37 Chevy pickup for 3 years. I did a body off frame resto, and took it down to the last nut and bolt. The truck is back together with the original 216 engine, 3 speed manual transmission and rear end. The engine starts at the first crank, and runs ok at top speed of 40 mph. However, when going through the gears at part load, the engine runs rough. The engine also wants to die when you come up to a full stop at a red light. But it will restart.The single barrel Carter W1 carburetor was restored by The Old Carb Doctor. When we started the engine, we tried to adjust the fuel/air mixture. Turning the fuel/air adjustment screw all the way in or out made no difference whatsoever in the engine speed or smoothness of running. I removed the carb and sent it back to The Old Carb Doctor a second time. He has disassembled it and cannot find anything wrong with it. After I removed this carburetor, I noticed the heat riser spring was broken and hanging by a thread. I bought a new spring and now the heat riser valve opens and closes as it should.
We checked for vacuum leaks by spraying brake fluid on the carb gaskets, hoses to the carb, etc., and found none.
I wanted to ask the forum if the heat riser being closed constantly and the intake manifold heated constantly could cause the rough running at part load. Or, is there something else the Carb Doctor should check? We replaced the fuel pump with a new one during the resto.
The truck was saturating the spark plugs with fuel, and the plugs were replaced. But doesn't that mean something is out of whack with the carb?
Any ideas? This is the last part of the project before it is finished. I sure appreciate any guidance the forum members might be able to give. The truck has been driven maybe 25 miles since the start-up of the rebuilt engine, around the block once and to/from the repair shop twice.
Thanks in advance!
Jack
I have been working on an all original '37 Chevy pickup for 3 years. I did a body off frame resto, and took it down to the last nut and bolt. The truck is back together with the original 216 engine, 3 speed manual transmission and rear end. The engine starts at the first crank, and runs ok at top speed of 40 mph. However, when going through the gears at part load, the engine runs rough. The engine also wants to die when you come up to a full stop at a red light. But it will restart.The single barrel Carter W1 carburetor was restored by The Old Carb Doctor. When we started the engine, we tried to adjust the fuel/air mixture. Turning the fuel/air adjustment screw all the way in or out made no difference whatsoever in the engine speed or smoothness of running. I removed the carb and sent it back to The Old Carb Doctor a second time. He has disassembled it and cannot find anything wrong with it. After I removed this carburetor, I noticed the heat riser spring was broken and hanging by a thread. I bought a new spring and now the heat riser valve opens and closes as it should.
We checked for vacuum leaks by spraying brake fluid on the carb gaskets, hoses to the carb, etc., and found none.
I wanted to ask the forum if the heat riser being closed constantly and the intake manifold heated constantly could cause the rough running at part load. Or, is there something else the Carb Doctor should check? We replaced the fuel pump with a new one during the resto.
The truck was saturating the spark plugs with fuel, and the plugs were replaced. But doesn't that mean something is out of whack with the carb?
Any ideas? This is the last part of the project before it is finished. I sure appreciate any guidance the forum members might be able to give. The truck has been driven maybe 25 miles since the start-up of the rebuilt engine, around the block once and to/from the repair shop twice.
Thanks in advance!
Jack
May 3rd, 2021, 6:45 AM
#2
CF Monarch
Hi! New member here.
I have been working on an all original '37 Chevy pickup for 3 years. I did a body off frame resto, and took it down to the last nut and bolt. The truck is back together with the original 216 engine, 3 speed manual transmission and rear end. The engine starts at the first crank, and runs ok at top speed of 40 mph. However, when going through the gears at part load, the engine runs rough. The engine also wants to die when you come up to a full stop at a red light. But it will restart.The single barrel Carter W1 carburetor was restored by The Old Carb Doctor. When we started the engine, we tried to adjust the fuel/air mixture. Turning the fuel/air adjustment screw all the way in or out made no difference whatsoever in the engine speed or smoothness of running. I removed the carb and sent it back to The Old Carb Doctor a second time. He has disassembled it and cannot find anything wrong with it. After I removed this carburetor, I noticed the heat riser spring was broken and hanging by a thread. I bought a new spring and now the heat riser valve opens and closes as it should.
We checked for vacuum leaks by spraying brake fluid on the carb gaskets, hoses to the carb, etc., and found none.
I wanted to ask the forum if the heat riser being closed constantly and the intake manifold heated constantly could cause the rough running at part load. Or, is there something else the Carb Doctor should check? We replaced the fuel pump with a new one during the resto.
The truck was saturating the spark plugs with fuel, and the plugs were replaced. But doesn't that mean something is out of whack with the carb?
Any ideas? This is the last part of the project before it is finished. I sure appreciate any guidance the forum members might be able to give. The truck has been driven maybe 25 miles since the start-up of the rebuilt engine, around the block once and to/from the repair shop twice.
Thanks in advance!
Jack
I have been working on an all original '37 Chevy pickup for 3 years. I did a body off frame resto, and took it down to the last nut and bolt. The truck is back together with the original 216 engine, 3 speed manual transmission and rear end. The engine starts at the first crank, and runs ok at top speed of 40 mph. However, when going through the gears at part load, the engine runs rough. The engine also wants to die when you come up to a full stop at a red light. But it will restart.The single barrel Carter W1 carburetor was restored by The Old Carb Doctor. When we started the engine, we tried to adjust the fuel/air mixture. Turning the fuel/air adjustment screw all the way in or out made no difference whatsoever in the engine speed or smoothness of running. I removed the carb and sent it back to The Old Carb Doctor a second time. He has disassembled it and cannot find anything wrong with it. After I removed this carburetor, I noticed the heat riser spring was broken and hanging by a thread. I bought a new spring and now the heat riser valve opens and closes as it should.
We checked for vacuum leaks by spraying brake fluid on the carb gaskets, hoses to the carb, etc., and found none.
I wanted to ask the forum if the heat riser being closed constantly and the intake manifold heated constantly could cause the rough running at part load. Or, is there something else the Carb Doctor should check? We replaced the fuel pump with a new one during the resto.
The truck was saturating the spark plugs with fuel, and the plugs were replaced. But doesn't that mean something is out of whack with the carb?
Any ideas? This is the last part of the project before it is finished. I sure appreciate any guidance the forum members might be able to give. The truck has been driven maybe 25 miles since the start-up of the rebuilt engine, around the block once and to/from the repair shop twice.
Thanks in advance!
Jack
May 7th, 2021, 2:09 AM
#3
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May 7th, 2021, 7:15 AM
#4
CF Monarch
I would get a different carburetor and try that. I had something similar happen many years ago. I had a Rochester 2 bbl carb that started to run real bad. I rebuilt it and it ran better but not right. I took it to a carb shop and he couldn't find anything wrong with it. Later on I was at a Upick yard and saw a carb that looked like it with minor differences. i bought it and replaced the bad carb and suddenly the engine ran great again.
May 7th, 2021, 9:15 AM
#5
If the float needle and seat were all brass , this would not apply, but if the needle has a rubber tip on it , unleaded gasoline will cause it to swell and provide a lean mixture.
Since the problem is an over rich mixture, look for what may be hanging up when the metering rod lifts and allows too much fuel to go into the engine.Vacuum is what determines how high the rod is allowed to lift . Hi vacuum pulls the rod down to lean out the mixture at idle. When vacuum is lowered the spring allows the rod to lift and provide more fuel.
Since the problem is an over rich mixture, look for what may be hanging up when the metering rod lifts and allows too much fuel to go into the engine.Vacuum is what determines how high the rod is allowed to lift . Hi vacuum pulls the rod down to lean out the mixture at idle. When vacuum is lowered the spring allows the rod to lift and provide more fuel.
Last edited by hanky; May 7th, 2021 at 9:18 AM.
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