NewCarGuy

I own a 1982 corvette and I am having some issues. The car has a 5.7L (350 c.i.d.) engine. The fuel injectors have been replaced with a Holley carburetor.

2 weeks ago my car lost all pep. It would idle fine, but would stall when I tried to drive it. I replaced the fuel lines, the fuel filter, and the 2 brass filters in the carburetor. I adjusted the timing, and the car ran fine for 2 days. Then it suddenly refused to start. The engine cranks, but will not turn over. There is fuel coming into the carburetor, so I do not think it is a fuel problem.

I have replaced the ignition coil and the module in the distributor. The car still will not turn over. I thought it might be timing, so I have adjusted the distributor, but I will not turn over regardless of where I have it.

The car is completely mechanical, I removed all of the computerized components, so it isn't a bad sensor. There is spark at the spark plug, but it is not great spark. It has a small orange spark, and a fellow car guy told me that the HEI should have big, bright, blue spark. I have replaced every part in the distributor that I can think of.

Could it be the timing belt? If it was slipping, then that would explain my earlier problem. It slipped more, and I have my current problem. But since I need to remove the water pump, fan, radiator, oil pan, steering linkage to get to the timing chain I am looking for other ideas.

Is it possible to lower the oil pan enough to get the timing chain cover off without completely removing the oil pan?

Sorry this post got so long,

Thank you,
NewCarGuy.

P.S. I'm new to all this, but the 2 car guys helping me are not new. But we're out of ideas.

kcb37

Does that have a catalitic converter on it?

NewCarGuy

No, there is no catalytic converter.

I just got to the timing chain, and the chain had stretched. I think I found my problem. Won't know until I get everything put back together.

Does anyone know about the 2 piece timing chain covers? I have heard they make things easier, but i don't know how?

Thanks,

kcb37

I have heard that too. Haven't used one myself. If I remeber correctly you can get the top half off without taking anything else off, but I'm not sure.
Good Luck.

mopar

when you replaced the the fuel injectors with a carb, did you change out the fuel pump? You need to have a mechanical pump instead of the electric you had in there.

kcb37

I disagree with that, their are a lot of carbs on the road running a in tank or inline pump. (that is why they make a cover for the block where the mechanical pump would go.) However) I wil say that may have to much pressure, but I don't think that is your problem in light of the timing chain.

uncle bill

FUEL PRESSURE is why You should replace the pump. I don't believe this is the problem, but don't be misinformed about the factory inline fuel pump working on a carb engine. A carb requires 5-9 pounds of fuel pressure. Any more than that and The needle valve will remain open and cause a flooding problem. A Fuel injected engine uses 15 - 35 pounds of fuel pressure. If You can install a fuel pressure regulator to lower the pressure enough for the carb application, then it may work. If not, an electric pump ( I.E. Holley Red ) will do in place of a mechanical pump. This is the reason for the plate to cover the mechanical pump hole. Those plates came about long before the advent of in tank fuel injected applications. Understand that a fuel injector has no reservoir ( bowl ) to contain fuel to supply the engine, therefore the need for a higher fuel pressure. Now about You problem, Check the distributor installation for timing ( Does the firing position of the distributor match the firing position of the piston? ) or in other words, is Your distributor 180 degrees out of position. Yuu stated that " the engine cranks but does not turn over". Do You mean that it turns over but does not fire or that it does not turn over? I'm a bit confused. On the timing chain issue, it should have a slight amount of slack in the timing chain but not excessive. a taught chain will cause the chain to fail and too much slack will cause timing to be erratic. The spark issue is important. A yellow spark is a weak spark. Blue spark is what is needed. Don't use cheap ignition parts, use premium cap, rotor, coil, wires and plugs. A .045" spark plug gap is usually best for an HEI ignioton ( too little or too great a gap will cause a fuel burning problem. If none of this works, take the distributor to a reliable distributor rebuilder, the problem could be in the reluctor wheel gap or a worn lower distributor bushing that's causing the problem. An HEI from the factory usually has too much timing built into it for performance applications and should be properly recurved ( not just the amount of timing but the rate at which the timing comes in )
to make the distributor work properly. If He has the right kind of machine, He can eliminate the distributor as a problem.