I suspect my can chain of stretching so far the ink pump is too later to fire. It only runs on cold start. It has had water in it but has run. Has always given poor perfomance and mileage since bought 6mths ago. Paid $3k to get it sorted too.

 

Translation please?

So far I have figured out that he thinks that his cam chain on his 6.2l is stretched beyond specs. That the vehicle likes to run/start when cold.

Runs poor but always has run poor for the 3 months the guy has owned the car and so far he has spent $3k for repairs.

Given the sorted part I say that Mr. dumbum is either an Aussie or Brit.
I vote Aussie.

 

poorly worded-very tired, sorry. Yes, I think 0.8" stretch is enough to retard the injector timing more than 10 deg, on a 1/2"(?) chain which is prob enough to prevent the motor running when hot. The 3 deg extra advance from the cold start is just enough to let it run whilst its engaged.

Q1.
Abt how much more advance do I need to give it, in crank deg pls, assuming 10-15deg BTDC is normal?

 

Back to OEM specs for stock.

 

Thank you for an impractical non answer. I am assuming someone will have some ideas about latest injector timing which will allow a middle-aged average performance diesel motor of indeterminate type to just stop running, but run with 3 deg more advance. Then I can guess how much more to add to get to 10deg BTDC, and thus time the motor reasonably correctly in one adjustment, without working totally blind, since I can't easily access actual timing measurement tools or replace the cam chain at the breakdown point. Near enough will do, but I want to be near as possible from one simple action.

EDIT:
From further reading, looks like the marks on the DB2 are inconsistent/non-linear with actual flame timing. What an awful system! Correct adjustment demands several expensive special tools. Ignition/flame timing is apparently best @ abt 2degBTDC-for which the opto/inductive meter is needed. It could be done sonically too these days.