HELP! 97 GMC Sierra not happy....
July 7th, 2010, 9:47 AM
#11
Hi Premium Blend,
Welcome to the Chevy Forums.
You don't really "clean" corroded wires, you replace them. Are the battery cables and engine -to-firewall-ground-strap original? Given the age of your vehicle, I'd surmise this is a likely source of your grief.
Welcome to the Chevy Forums.
You don't really "clean" corroded wires, you replace them. Are the battery cables and engine -to-firewall-ground-strap original? Given the age of your vehicle, I'd surmise this is a likely source of your grief.
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DavidDeBord (April 16th, 2022)
July 10th, 2010, 7:33 PM
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I didn't get a chance to work on my truck today like I had planned, I had to work instead but I'm going to just go ahead and pull the bed anyways but I did take a look at both of the battery cables and the ground strap, both are in surprisingly good condition. Do you think I should just replace them to be safe?
July 12th, 2010, 9:43 AM
#13
Short answer: Y E S !!!
You're looking at 13 year old wires, that's about 300 years old in "dog years".
Bad grounds are the "great imitator", when you start losing a solid ground, you start having all sorts of odd electrical problems, which many times seem like other things. The cables, especially the ends, may seem OK, but corrosion gets under the insulation, and travels up the wire itself.
Additionally, given the fact that bad cables destroy batteries, alternators and starters at and accelerated rate, and the fact that a complete change-out of the big three is so inexpensive, it's a great way to clear the playing field so you can successfully troubleshoot other problems without being hindered.
Bear in mind when you change the cables, you'll be getting a FREE set of new battery terminal bolts, so you can also get rid of those manky old ones. Many times they cause grounding and charging problems in themselves.
You're looking at 13 year old wires, that's about 300 years old in "dog years".
Bad grounds are the "great imitator", when you start losing a solid ground, you start having all sorts of odd electrical problems, which many times seem like other things. The cables, especially the ends, may seem OK, but corrosion gets under the insulation, and travels up the wire itself.
Additionally, given the fact that bad cables destroy batteries, alternators and starters at and accelerated rate, and the fact that a complete change-out of the big three is so inexpensive, it's a great way to clear the playing field so you can successfully troubleshoot other problems without being hindered.
Bear in mind when you change the cables, you'll be getting a FREE set of new battery terminal bolts, so you can also get rid of those manky old ones. Many times they cause grounding and charging problems in themselves.
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DavidDeBord (April 16th, 2022)
July 16th, 2010, 8:51 AM
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One of the first things to do is to repair all the little problems - gremlins if you prefer before trying to fix the big problem.
There is three things that I see go wrong with that series of vehicle.
Very rarely - the fuel pump does go bad.
The reason why the fuel pump goes bad is usually due to driving around with a empty tank of gasoline all the time -
In most cases, there is a cup that goes around the fuel pump. The purpose of the cup is to hold fuel right next to the fuel pump. The fuel acts like a coolant and keeps the pump cool and keeps it from burning up.
The second problem - I see is people that never changes the filter.
Pressure builds up behind the filter and the pump doesn't like it.
It took my dad 4 hours to get the filter off his 92' Silverado and he had to repair the fuel lines when all was said and done.
The next step is the easiest.
They have their car keys and their house keys and the key to their gym locker as well as a bunch of heavy stuff hanging from their key chain.
The weight of all the junk wears out the lock cylinder and as it gets worn, it does not make contact in the right places anymore and as time goes by, sooner or later it fails and the car / truck refuses to run.
If it has a theft ring around the outside of the cylinder - it is even worse.
As the key wears out - the cylinder doesn't recognize it anymore and when it doesn't recognize it, the theft lock is activated and it shuts off the fuel pump.
What you could try first - and this is just a stab in the dark, would be for you to go to a Chevrolet Dealership and take your VIN code with you and have them cut you a new key.
Then you have to go home and put the key in the cylinder and do a relearn process - where you let the key in the cylinder - with the ignition on - but do not start the vehicle for about 15 minutes - until the security light goes out in the dash. Then turn the key off and then turn it back on and then turn it off and then turn it back on 3 times and then take the key out of the ignition for ``15 seconds and then put it back in and then start the vehicle.
All the in's and outs will make the computer learn the new key.
If that doesn't work, then you need to remove the steering coloum out of the vehicle and get a new one - or remove the cylinder and replace it with a brand new genuine GM replacement cylinder and it should work.
There is one little fuse under the cowl cover on some of those models that could blow that would not allow the truck to run.
It is the only BUSS type fuse in the entire vehicle. It is in a glass tube and holder - above the heater core inside of a black box or panduit ( surface raceway) that runs along the edge of the firewall.
There is three things that I see go wrong with that series of vehicle.
Very rarely - the fuel pump does go bad.
The reason why the fuel pump goes bad is usually due to driving around with a empty tank of gasoline all the time -
In most cases, there is a cup that goes around the fuel pump. The purpose of the cup is to hold fuel right next to the fuel pump. The fuel acts like a coolant and keeps the pump cool and keeps it from burning up.
The second problem - I see is people that never changes the filter.
Pressure builds up behind the filter and the pump doesn't like it.
It took my dad 4 hours to get the filter off his 92' Silverado and he had to repair the fuel lines when all was said and done.
The next step is the easiest.
They have their car keys and their house keys and the key to their gym locker as well as a bunch of heavy stuff hanging from their key chain.
The weight of all the junk wears out the lock cylinder and as it gets worn, it does not make contact in the right places anymore and as time goes by, sooner or later it fails and the car / truck refuses to run.
If it has a theft ring around the outside of the cylinder - it is even worse.
As the key wears out - the cylinder doesn't recognize it anymore and when it doesn't recognize it, the theft lock is activated and it shuts off the fuel pump.
What you could try first - and this is just a stab in the dark, would be for you to go to a Chevrolet Dealership and take your VIN code with you and have them cut you a new key.
Then you have to go home and put the key in the cylinder and do a relearn process - where you let the key in the cylinder - with the ignition on - but do not start the vehicle for about 15 minutes - until the security light goes out in the dash. Then turn the key off and then turn it back on and then turn it off and then turn it back on 3 times and then take the key out of the ignition for ``15 seconds and then put it back in and then start the vehicle.
All the in's and outs will make the computer learn the new key.
If that doesn't work, then you need to remove the steering coloum out of the vehicle and get a new one - or remove the cylinder and replace it with a brand new genuine GM replacement cylinder and it should work.
There is one little fuse under the cowl cover on some of those models that could blow that would not allow the truck to run.
It is the only BUSS type fuse in the entire vehicle. It is in a glass tube and holder - above the heater core inside of a black box or panduit ( surface raceway) that runs along the edge of the firewall.
Last edited by therewolf; July 21st, 2010 at 10:34 AM.
July 16th, 2010, 9:06 AM
#15
Administrator
absolutely correct on the fuel pumps going out due to too little fuel kept in the tank esp when its hot out, remember the surface temp on the road is an easy 120+ degrees and only 2 feet or less away from your fuel tank and pump
absolutely correct on the key / ignition the ignition was never designed to be a rack for holding things, keep your keys on a separate ring and only put the ignition key and the remote fob hanging from the ignition. Its not just the weight but the dangling and bouncing of a pound of heavy brass keys that tears up the ignition switch.
absolutely correct on the key / ignition the ignition was never designed to be a rack for holding things, keep your keys on a separate ring and only put the ignition key and the remote fob hanging from the ignition. Its not just the weight but the dangling and bouncing of a pound of heavy brass keys that tears up the ignition switch.
July 17th, 2010, 10:07 AM
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To "Chevy Lover for Life": ****EDIT**** Therewolf was kind enough to throw a warning my way, so if you haven't read what I posted I sent it to you in a nice PM... you can read it privately vs. publicly.
To "in2pro": The only thing I have on my key is a key fob and the owner before me (the only owner) I knew personally and he had his house keys on it and that was it. Also, since day one... I never, EVER let my gas tank go below a 1/4 tank UNLESS it was just one of those times I couldn't get to a gas station. I treat my 1/4 tank mark like my empty marker.
To "in2pro": The only thing I have on my key is a key fob and the owner before me (the only owner) I knew personally and he had his house keys on it and that was it. Also, since day one... I never, EVER let my gas tank go below a 1/4 tank UNLESS it was just one of those times I couldn't get to a gas station. I treat my 1/4 tank mark like my empty marker.
Last edited by PremiumBlend; July 18th, 2010 at 6:21 PM.
July 17th, 2010, 10:28 AM
#18
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PremiumBlend most everyone on the forum is trying to help, granted I to think Chevy lover for life could chose his words better.
That said his statements on the running too low of fuel and hanging too much from a key chain are very real and very common problems that can be avoided.
That was my point of reaffirming them and was by no means directed to you if that is how you read it.
That said his statements on the running too low of fuel and hanging too much from a key chain are very real and very common problems that can be avoided.
That was my point of reaffirming them and was by no means directed to you if that is how you read it.
July 17th, 2010, 11:08 AM
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PremiumBlend most everyone on the forum is trying to help, granted I to think Chevy lover for life could chose his words better.
That said his statements on the running too low of fuel and hanging too much from a key chain are very real and very common problems that can be avoided.
That was my point of reaffirming them and was by no means directed to you if that is how you read it.
That said his statements on the running too low of fuel and hanging too much from a key chain are very real and very common problems that can be avoided.
That was my point of reaffirming them and was by no means directed to you if that is how you read it.
July 17th, 2010, 1:07 PM
#20
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I had an 86 Z28 with a TPI (tuned port injection) 350 and a 700r4. I bought it with , what I thought was a small electric "issue". I could start my car let it run for 30 seconds or five hour road trip, the time did not matter, but as soon as I killed the car it would not restart til it sat for some times overnight. After over a month and $800.00 later it was three bad grounds, one of which I checked but the wire was actually broken, and the PROM chip in the ECU. Yours is an OBD2 system, but the basic issues could be similar. I finally took it a shop which is who found my ECU problem. If you are in N. Texas I can refer you to a few really good shops. I hope this helps.