EnyChevyUK

My 98 Express van has recently had new rotors and pads due to having warped rotors.
I started to use the van but the rotors were still getting too hot, so not wanting another set to get warped I removed the calipers, removed the pots and cleaned everything up, replaced seals and fluid.
I have since fitted aftermarket wheels which make the rotors easy to see (previous wheels were factory items which covered the rotors, calipers).
After a short drive without any hard braking I stick my finger through the gap in the wheel and touch the rotor, I can only touch it for 2-3 seconds due to the heat. I know brakes and components will obviously get hot even when not being used due to the friction.
Before fitting the new rotors it was obvious the brakes were too hot as I couldn't even put my hand on the wheel due to the heat.
Since fitting the new wheels I can put my hand on them though they are very warm.
An example would be drive for 10 mins at 30mph and use the brakes only once to stop. The rotors would then burn my finger.
Am I being paranoid about the heat or is this normal, if this is not normal what is my problem as I've replaced rotors, pads, seals and cleaned up the calipers ?
One last thing, I have the problem on both front wheels ?
Thanks.

in2pro

FYI if your rotors are getting excessively hot it maybe because they are doing all the stopping and the rear brakes are not functioning correctly.
You will need to make sure the rear brakes are adjusted and working...

here is a little fyi I did a while back....


So being the gadget freak that I am, I picked up the Ryobi IR001 Non-contact Infrared Thermometer. (Home Depot $29)
Needless to say you can check the temperature of just about anything. I checked the temp of my rotors and calipers after some errands in my 07 Tahoe, this is what I got..

Front left rotor 160 F caliper 103 F

Front right rotor 156 F caliper 108 F

Rear left rotor 125 F caliper 90 F

Rear right rotor 120 F caliper 89 F

What does it mean… absolutely nothing really lol..
But the IR thermometer is a cool way (no pun intended) to check to see if the rotors are heating unevenly from uneven braking you can even see what the tire temp is.

Some other things I pointed it at were the catalytic converters 310 F, the oil filter 165 F

EnyChevyUK

I will check the rears but the fronts are getting hot with minimal/zero braking, if I was city driving lack of rear brakes may well be the problem ?

MDTAHOE

I suspect the rear drum brakes need to be adjusted properly.

PremiumBlend

As for your brakes, I think the other guys hit the nail on the head... check the rear brake adjustment. If it is fine your proportioning valve could be a bit off, or malfunctioning. After you check all of that... report back and see where it goes from there.

2wd-K5

quick question, are the bearings on the van the same ast the old chev's? where the rotor bolts to the spindle? or does it have greasable bearings? if so i would re pack the bearings (i do on my blazer every year for safe measure)

EnyChevyUK

Just a quick update :
As yet I have not checked the rears as I 've just spent a couple of weeks in Greece on vacation.
On my return the van woud not start. I need a new starter. When removing the old starter motor I spun the front wheels as I had the van jacked up. Both front wheels spun fine, slight binding sound as expected, one wheel spun about 5 times before stopping, the other about 3 times so all I have to do now is check out the rears. The van is on the driveway waiting for the new starter, its cold and raining so I think I'll watch soccer with a pizza instead (checking the rears can wait, think I'll plan a maintenance weekend were I can get a few jobs done on the van without the wife and kid in the house, I noticed a tranny fluid leak when I removed the starter, it was from the dipstick tube where it enters the pan, will I need a new tube or is there a gasket/seal/o ring available to sort that problem ?)!
As for the bearings being old style or not ? I haven't got a clue !
Thanks guys, 'Have A Nice Day'