Scott Thompson

Im sorry to be a bother but I need some advice about this problem. I have owned a 2000 2.2 liter cavalier for about 5 years now with no electrical problems. About three weeks ago the car just dies in the middle of the road,after inspecting the inside fuse box I noticed the ign mod fuse was blown. So put another fuse in it and it started up and ran for three weeks then the same thing happened again. I bought a new fuse put it in and now its running fine again. I looked for shorts and could find none, even messed with all the starter wires and battery wires while the car was running and still no problems. I have noticed the fuse only blows once the car has been running for a while and once it blows it will do it every 8 to ten miles. If I let the car cool down over night I will be able to drive 30 mins or so before the fuse blows again. The fuse never blows when I start the car tho. Being that I checked the all wires on the outside of the car I decided lets get into the steering column and I am not sure about what I found no shorts on wires to fuse box or around the column. I did however notice that if I tapped the ignition switch with the end of a screw driver the car would die but not pop the fuse. So I checked the plugs connecting the switch and could find no short. So i figured their was a short inside the switch bought a new one installed it and tapped it gently and the car died still but no popped fuse. One question I have is the car supposed to die when i tap on the ignition switch? One more question is could a ignition coil going bad cause the fuse to pop only when the car was hot or running for a while? I am sorry for the length of the question (post) docs got me on adderall

Camaro 69

Before getting to your strange tapping trick, I was thinking that perhaps your ignition module is going bad and overloading the fuse. A bad ignition modules can act strangely when it gets hot without actually killing the ignition. Yours may just be taxing the fuse. When the engine kills, have you tried tapping the switch to see if that reverses the problem?

Scott Thompson

I don't quite get what your saying. When I driving the car and it dies the fuse goes pop. If your asking if the after the car dies and I replace the fuse did I tap on the switch to see if it fixes the problem then the answer is yes I did and It doesn't fix the problem. I know its kinda confusing but when it dies on its own without tapping the switch It always pops the fuse causing the no firing to the engine it will just turn over and over and not start until the fuse is replaced then it will drive 5 to 10 mins and pop again. After changing fuse I can tap the switch and the car dies instantly but does not pop the fuse. I just can start it right back up. Honestly I can say the longer the car sits and cools down the longer it will drive before the fuse pops. But if the fuse pops and I instantly put a fuse in and go It will pop more frequently. Thanks for the prompt response hope i am making since

Scott Thompson

Oh one other thing I have changed the Ignition switch, the plugs, plug wires and both Ignition coils, and did notice the module was hot, but beings that the coils mount on top of the module i wasn't sure which was hot or if it was normal or not.

Scott Thompson

Thanks for everything took the module off and had it tested at oriellys and it failed every category on the machine. Is there anything special I need to know about installing a the new one

kevinkpk

It may have a packet of "grease" with the new one. That is a heat sink, helps protect the module from engine heat, use it if it has it. Other than negative cable off the battery, I cannot think of anything other than some electrical contact cleaner to clean the connectors with.

Camaro 69

This is the part I was asking about, if tapping the switch again after it kills helps at all. Wasn't aware (you didn't say initially), that the engine would start right back up again.
That switch tap deal is still a weird thing. If the new ignition module doesn't come with some heat sink grease, get some from Radio Shack and use it.

Scott Thompson

Well about the heat sink thing I looked it up, and this is the article I found tell me if it sounds right because I did not use heat sink on the module, and it did not come with any...(The ignition control module can be found mounted on the engine, placed in or on the distributor or mounted to the under hood sheet metal. Since the control module contains heat sensitive electrical components, steps are taken to insulate the module from engine heat. Modules that are mounted on the under hood sheet metal or on the engine, usually contain a thick film of insulating material around the internal circuitry. In addition, engine mounted control modules may also use heat shields between the module and the engine. Distributor mounted modules are insulated using a silicone paste between the module and the mounting surface. When replacing a distributor mounted control module, the silicone paste should always be applied to the mounting surface of the module)..... Mine is the Engine mounted kind and is not mounted directly to the engine. It is on a shield that actually separates it from the engine about 1/2 inch or so.. I would hate to have to take it back off but I will if you guys think its the smart thing to do. I did drive the car hard last night after the replacement and it seemed to fix the problem, and notice the car had a lot more pick up and over all power. I found the article at this website http://www.auto-repair-help.com/auto...ole_module.php.. Thanks for everything guys...

Camaro 69

I would still consider yours engine mounted because the bracket is mounted to the engine. Technically not "on the engine", but close enough to get toasty. Nothing wrong with a little extra safeguard, using some heat sink grease.
You also gotta ask yourself what trashed the old one. Did heat finally get to it (appears heat is what was making it act flaky), or was it just "it's time to die"?

Scott Thompson

Ok thanks I will just suck it up and do it.