Need some help with a ?
#2
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Location: northern california
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first off you would need(in my opinion) a soild front axle,the cost anywhere from $100 to $1000..all this would require some fabbing in order for the steering to be right.
next you would need some front leaf springs whick range from free to $250 or so.(and some more fabbing)
then you would need a transfer case which would run from maybe free to upwords of $500 if your lucky.
then you would need custon front driveshaft which is anywhere from $300 uo to $500...
this is just the tip of the iceberg...there is a really helpful member here named mudmaniac which just did this swap i will try and find the original post and foward it to you...
good luck
red
#3
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<HR style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #000000; COLOR: #000000" SIZE=1 itxtvisited="1"><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message --><!-- BEGIN TEMPLATE: ad_showthread_firstpost_start --><!-- END TEMPLATE: ad_showthread_firstpost_start -->Well, I have been working on it for 2 months now and I think I'm ready.
This post is to show how I did my axle swap, I do want to say that I use my Tahoe almost strictly offroad and that I would suggest that you do this at your own risk. This set up will give 6" of lift.
Parts list,
88 Jeep Wagoneer front Dana 44 w/6 lug bolt pattern. $150.
Ring and pinion, mini spool and Warn hubs. $450.
High angle drive shaft with transfer case flange and 1 ton axle yoke. $850.
87 S10 rear springs and hangers. Free
2x3x3/16 square tube steel.
2" wheel spacers
The process.
Remove the front upper and lower control arms, and the differential.
Remove the hanger brackets from the frame.
Remove the front tow hooks and mounting blocks.
Cut 2 4" pieces of the steel tube and drill them to mount at the location of the tow hooks, use the existing bolts and back plates, drill a 3/4" hole thru the side to accept 1/2" steel pipe as a bushing and weld them in place.
This is where I used the rear shackels to hang the springs. Next I used the spring mounts I removed from the S10 and welded them to the frame rails, I measured back 52" from the front hanger to the rear location, this located the rear hangers at the end of the boxed section of the frame. Now you hang the springs, this placed my axle in the original location of the wheel wells. Now it's time to lower the vehicle on to the axle perches, I installed new perches on the axle for a spring over application. With the axle mounted I found that my existing shock mounts and shocks from my former lift bolted right up to the axle, I also had extended brake lines that worked. Now for the steering I used half of the steering linkage from the Jeep and a tie rod end from the stock steering, I welded the 2 adjusters together and connected it to one of the existing mounts for the tie rod on the drivers side. The last thing was the drive shaft, I tried having the stock yoke on the transfer case machined but that didn't work out so I ordered a new flange, CV joint type drive shaft and pinion yoke from High Angle Driveline.
Here are some pics, excuse the focus on some of the shots, I need better lighting in my shop.
Out with the old
Almost gone
Goodbye Rough Country Lift
New blocks for front hangers
Rear hangers
S10 rear leaf springs
Leaf springs hung
Need to clean this up
OK it's under the truck
Now just lower the lift
Gut that axle
New gears and goodies
Mounting the ring gear and mini spool
Time to close it up
Steering linkage
New drive shaft next to stock
What's that I see
A 95 with a solid front axle
thanks again george!......(mudmaniac)...
red
This post is to show how I did my axle swap, I do want to say that I use my Tahoe almost strictly offroad and that I would suggest that you do this at your own risk. This set up will give 6" of lift.
Parts list,
88 Jeep Wagoneer front Dana 44 w/6 lug bolt pattern. $150.
Ring and pinion, mini spool and Warn hubs. $450.
High angle drive shaft with transfer case flange and 1 ton axle yoke. $850.
87 S10 rear springs and hangers. Free
2x3x3/16 square tube steel.
2" wheel spacers
The process.
Remove the front upper and lower control arms, and the differential.
Remove the hanger brackets from the frame.
Remove the front tow hooks and mounting blocks.
Cut 2 4" pieces of the steel tube and drill them to mount at the location of the tow hooks, use the existing bolts and back plates, drill a 3/4" hole thru the side to accept 1/2" steel pipe as a bushing and weld them in place.
This is where I used the rear shackels to hang the springs. Next I used the spring mounts I removed from the S10 and welded them to the frame rails, I measured back 52" from the front hanger to the rear location, this located the rear hangers at the end of the boxed section of the frame. Now you hang the springs, this placed my axle in the original location of the wheel wells. Now it's time to lower the vehicle on to the axle perches, I installed new perches on the axle for a spring over application. With the axle mounted I found that my existing shock mounts and shocks from my former lift bolted right up to the axle, I also had extended brake lines that worked. Now for the steering I used half of the steering linkage from the Jeep and a tie rod end from the stock steering, I welded the 2 adjusters together and connected it to one of the existing mounts for the tie rod on the drivers side. The last thing was the drive shaft, I tried having the stock yoke on the transfer case machined but that didn't work out so I ordered a new flange, CV joint type drive shaft and pinion yoke from High Angle Driveline.
Here are some pics, excuse the focus on some of the shots, I need better lighting in my shop.
Out with the old
Almost gone
Goodbye Rough Country Lift
New blocks for front hangers
Rear hangers
S10 rear leaf springs
Leaf springs hung
Need to clean this up
OK it's under the truck
Now just lower the lift
Gut that axle
New gears and goodies
Mounting the ring gear and mini spool
Time to close it up
Steering linkage
New drive shaft next to stock
What's that I see
A 95 with a solid front axle
thanks again george!......(mudmaniac)...
red
#4
CF Veteran
I'm up to a $1,000 just to put the solid axle under my 2wd 07. I have a Dana 60 already though. The kit I'm looking at doesn't come with springs, the crossover steering, u-bolts, and a lot more hardware. I've just started looking at t-cases, I'm gonna have to buy one and get it rebuilt. Once you get a T-case you have to get an adapter plate to mate it to the trans, and prolly a new output shaft in the trans. gotta get new driveshafts also. And lift blocks for the rear.
Or you could buy everything for yours that the 4wd would come with, but I'd think that be more difficult than the Solid Axle.
Or you could buy everything for yours that the 4wd would come with, but I'd think that be more difficult than the Solid Axle.
#6
Super Moderator
Ride of the Month
May 2009
Ride of the Month
May 2009
I still need to re-work my steering set up, I get too much bump steer right now.
It works ok for mud bog racing, but it's white knuckle driving on the road.
It works ok for mud bog racing, but it's white knuckle driving on the road.
#7
CF Active Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Colorado
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dampers, dampers , and then more dampers or bigger pump sounds like a great mod. project let us know i have a simular aggravassion i new i would find Red hiding somewhere
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