All,
I have a 2007 Saturi ION 2 - 2.2 L with a 5 Speed Manual. It has just over 184K miles on the odometer. I was the original purchaser bought it with 6 miles on the odometer. It is not my main vehicle but due to two of my kids are now driving its time to bring it back into service (back from the back barn).

I have put a clutch in it at 131K, I put a chinese touch screen radio in it about a year before the clutch, I have recently replaced the front suspension (Sub Frame, rack, all shocks/struts,Tie Rod Ends, stabilizers the works...This is the third set for the car (original, and one other and then this set). The vehicle suffered a major front end Deer Collision. Almost totaled according to the insurance company. front end - lost hood, fenders, headlamps, and electric wiring was affected (replaced main socket going to the headlamps. The overall repair looked good initially but I am having paint issues (peeling) which is warranted.

It has sat recently for a couple years (almost 3) as I was working through some health issues as well .

The vehicle starts and runs well...even with that old gas in it (1/4 tank). I do have a P0496 Code being thrown which has been a on going issue and I order a Gates Evaporator Solenoid.

Anyways the above is a little background on the vehicle...The case at hand over the past 5-6 years (keep in mind its been parked a while)... the vehicle would experience door locks that would actuate out of the blue driving down the road. I did not think much of the issue as the vehicle under warranty had door lock and speaker issues. Then I lost the low beam head lamps...high beams still worked....then the High Beams went south (on rare occasion they will still work), then finally before I parked it I lost Cruise Control...No light at the steering column when pressing it on. There may be a parasitic drain going on as the vehicles original battery lasted 16 years...The replacement, due to my health issue and not running the vehicle, basically failed in less than 6 months....Would not keep a charge...The battery that is in it now is brand new and is putting out 14 volts. It appears to run down in a couple weeks...I am not sure if its the radio or the Anomaly (coming up). I pulled the Radio fuse from the BCM Fuse Panel to try ascertain the culprit just recently...With that said I never experienced any isuse with radio and it running things down before.

I do have the Factory Service Manuals (3 Volumes) I bought when I bought the car...I have verified both fuse panel fuses with a continuity and a voltage check on each fuse. Voltage check on each side of the fuse pin top to ground. Also all relays have been tested using a relay tester.

What I have done besides the new battery/fuse/relay check...I started with the wiring. I had power at the orange wires going to the headlamps. Also the Wiring between all the headlamp wiring (PK and DK Blu) and BCM passed Continuity test . As well as ground is good at the BCM (Measured to bolts holding BCM and the Wiring)

One Anomaly, which I want to bring up is concerning me....So the Headlamps are fused into a LH and RH fuse set. When I pulled the fuses ouf (4 & 18). So the fuse is no longer in the fuse panel. I would expect one side of the fuse, when measured to ground, to measure around 12 volts and the other side to measure close to 0. One side has potentional the other does not. I am seeing 12 volts on each side of a single fuse and both fuses are doing this Anomaly. Other Fuses in the panel are not doing this Anomaly...just the headlamps. So to me this feedback is concerning...Thoughts, suggestions?

I took things a step further and did the same test with the BCM removed from the circuit...It measure how I expected. When measured to ground, One side measure around 12 volts and the other side to measure close to 0. I do not think this tests much as the BCM/ switch assembly controls the ground.

With that said I figured I am loosing the BCM and one of the local yards had a half price day on New Years Day...I was off work and had a list of parts for this vehicle and my numerous others that needed filling. So I got another BCM from a yard. Its from a 2006, 2.2L, Auto, and basically had the same features as mine. The Vin and my Vin when looking up things on the GM Parts store both suggest the 10390022 part number which is discontinued.

The VIN for mine - 1G8AZ55F17Z142510
The Donor Vin - 1G8AJ55F96Z101175


I suspected that I would have to program this new BCM for my vehicle...From my reading some say it may just work and the local GM dealership who could do the programming said there was no harm in trying...So I gave it a shot...
Once the key was turned to start, the vehicle threw a Change Oil Notification, Does not start, Check Engine Light, and I believe it was throwing a Pass lock light. Funny thing on the Oil Change...I changed my oil less than a week ago...Go figure...

I did that fuse voltage measurements again, with the fuse removed again, to see if the donor BCM changed anything...it did not.

I also scanned the ODBII Port, cheap chinese handheld one, and it reported under VIN identification my original VIN and the Donor Vin separated by a forward slash. It also gave a P0335 Crankshaft Sensor Not Learned Error.(Never seen that before and I scanned things in the last week). Also a P0201 OBD-II - Cylinder 1 Fuel Injector Circuit/Open. I had seen the P0201 before along with a P0496 once I started the vehicle after it sat that long spell (my health issue). The P0496 is a valid issue and as menitoned I am awaing the Gates Vapor Purge Solenoid to arrive from Rock Auto as it tested bad. The Gas that is in the vehicle is old and its less than 1/4 tank maybe thats the P0201. The P0335 hopefully will correct itself once it reaquires things.

Upon removal and reversal of everything I did to get the donor BCM in the vehicle...I placed the original back in the vehicle and it started right up.

This Anomaly has me concerned as It does not appear to be BCM specific, meanig regardless of the BCM it still is doing the anomaly.

My feeling is this BCM may be bad, but the feedback may be the cause.

Also I noticed in the fuse panel near fust 4 and 18 there is a Diode in the fuse panel (looks like fuse). Any idea on what its purpose is exactly?

I plan to check the fuse panel more closely as I remembered moving the under the hood fuse panel aside to replace the clutch. Maybe something got twisted/touching? (Seems like it would have shown up sooner in the past 50K miles...but maybe this is it...Thoughts?