2000 Impala - sound upgrade. Head unit ???
April 8th, 2009, 5:27 AM
#11
Impala Super Moderator
well heres the thing,
with a rca converter, you are splicing signal from speaker wire, which is not bad but its nnot a digital feed.
your factory player pushes out 12 watts rms.
when you upgrade to a cd player such as a midgrade pioneer, you will be getting 4v preouts to your amp, which is atleast four times as much as splicing signal out the wire, and it will be a digital feed, meaning better, clearer sound. not to mention you will be getting 22wx4 rms vs. your 12 currently. best thing to do would be to get a set of component 6.5 in front, and good 6x9 in the back run a highs amp on them. give em anywhere from 50- 100 watts rms to each channel and it will rock your world. and on the opposite side, run your wire for the sub amp. one thing to make sure and do is get some speaker savers for your door speakers, this keeps the base out of there, giving you better range with less distortion, and let the sub take care of all the low notes. one last thing, make sure you invest in a capacitor, as it will save you alternators, and tickets from your lights dimming. if you have any more questions that i could answer just let me know.
with a rca converter, you are splicing signal from speaker wire, which is not bad but its nnot a digital feed.
your factory player pushes out 12 watts rms.
when you upgrade to a cd player such as a midgrade pioneer, you will be getting 4v preouts to your amp, which is atleast four times as much as splicing signal out the wire, and it will be a digital feed, meaning better, clearer sound. not to mention you will be getting 22wx4 rms vs. your 12 currently. best thing to do would be to get a set of component 6.5 in front, and good 6x9 in the back run a highs amp on them. give em anywhere from 50- 100 watts rms to each channel and it will rock your world. and on the opposite side, run your wire for the sub amp. one thing to make sure and do is get some speaker savers for your door speakers, this keeps the base out of there, giving you better range with less distortion, and let the sub take care of all the low notes. one last thing, make sure you invest in a capacitor, as it will save you alternators, and tickets from your lights dimming. if you have any more questions that i could answer just let me know.
A capacitor is junk. Its a bandaid to a weak electrical system. If you want to stop dimming, make sure your battery is good and get a H/O alt.
April 8th, 2009, 3:56 PM
#12
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Updates
Thanks to all who replied and shared some expirience. Much appreciated.
Here is whats done as of now:
1. HU is still in place and WOULD NOT be replaced.
2. Front doors got dynamated/sounddeadened completly including inside the doors. Those who take them apart know that there are two monsterous holes. Not its all covered. Original speakers had been replaced with Kicker DS 650.2 components. Crossovers are inside the door. Tweeters had been run and placed at the upper corners of the windshield angled to hit almost directly the driver/passenger. Thanks to both insulation plus new speakers - the sound clarity and output has been increased big times. The bass response is amazing and so far few people already asked if I have a sub pumping this bass.
3. Rears had been replaced with Kickers 6*9 components. The trunk has been completly insulated from inside with construction expanding foam so as of now there is no "shared air space between trunk and the cabin" This, once again gave better bass response from the rear speakers.
4. The HU is able to provide relatively clear signal with +75% bass/high.
However I can go as far as 25-30 percent of the volume on the HU - as after this you start hearing some tiny distortion. Well, it is obviously not coming from 60/70Wt RMS speakers. HU at fault.
5. Bottom line: For those who are up to a budget upgrade - way to go !!! U guys are in US, I am in Canada. The upgrading is more expensive due to the scarcity of audio equipment overhere and higher prices. I had my speakers coming all the way from NY and FL :-)
6. Still thinking to get line output converter and upgrade further with mono amp 1000 to feed Kicker Solo baric L7 - 12 sub. Fronts are providing enough middles and highs.
:-)
Here is whats done as of now:
1. HU is still in place and WOULD NOT be replaced.
2. Front doors got dynamated/sounddeadened completly including inside the doors. Those who take them apart know that there are two monsterous holes. Not its all covered. Original speakers had been replaced with Kicker DS 650.2 components. Crossovers are inside the door. Tweeters had been run and placed at the upper corners of the windshield angled to hit almost directly the driver/passenger. Thanks to both insulation plus new speakers - the sound clarity and output has been increased big times. The bass response is amazing and so far few people already asked if I have a sub pumping this bass.
3. Rears had been replaced with Kickers 6*9 components. The trunk has been completly insulated from inside with construction expanding foam so as of now there is no "shared air space between trunk and the cabin" This, once again gave better bass response from the rear speakers.
4. The HU is able to provide relatively clear signal with +75% bass/high.
However I can go as far as 25-30 percent of the volume on the HU - as after this you start hearing some tiny distortion. Well, it is obviously not coming from 60/70Wt RMS speakers. HU at fault.
5. Bottom line: For those who are up to a budget upgrade - way to go !!! U guys are in US, I am in Canada. The upgrading is more expensive due to the scarcity of audio equipment overhere and higher prices. I had my speakers coming all the way from NY and FL :-)
6. Still thinking to get line output converter and upgrade further with mono amp 1000 to feed Kicker Solo baric L7 - 12 sub. Fronts are providing enough middles and highs.
:-)
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