Bleading brakes
#1
Bleading brakes
I am going to replace the FR brake hose. I will keep reservoir full with brake fluid, will plug in something in the brake line to stop leak until install the new hose. I was wondering should I bleed all wheels or this one only. What do you think?
#2
If you slightly depress the brake pedal with a pry bar the reservoir will not go dry. This will close off the ports in the master cylinder.
Have everything ready and do the swap quickly and you will only need to bleed the one side.
Have everything ready and do the swap quickly and you will only need to bleed the one side.
#3
tech2,
Thank you for the advice it looks good. What I did - on the open line I put the cap from bleeder valve.
I replaced the hose and tested the brakes. The road is wet from the rain, drove with 35 mi/h and pressed hard the brakes. The car pulls to the left. What could be the problem now? The brake pads and hardware are brand new. Air in the FR brake line or I needed to replace brake hoses in pairs - FL also?
PS Bleed second time right brake - no change, car still pulling to left side.
Thank you for the advice it looks good. What I did - on the open line I put the cap from bleeder valve.
I replaced the hose and tested the brakes. The road is wet from the rain, drove with 35 mi/h and pressed hard the brakes. The car pulls to the left. What could be the problem now? The brake pads and hardware are brand new. Air in the FR brake line or I needed to replace brake hoses in pairs - FL also?
PS Bleed second time right brake - no change, car still pulling to left side.
Last edited by georgi6; March 22nd, 2015 at 10:17 AM.
#6
Symptoms
Reason to replace FR hose – the caliper fell down from the hook to spring when I put it aside.
Removal
Removed the wheel, put a pan to catch the brake fluid, removed the hose to brake line 13mm + 16mm to hold in place (open end wrenches). Put the cap from bleeding valve on the line to plug it in. Removed bolt 10mm to bracket to disconnected end. Removed hose end to caliper – 11mm. Disconnect hose from bracket using flat screw driver and removed the retainer.
Installation
Installed retainer to bracket using small hammer. Screwed the hose lower end to caliper, bracket and upper end. Tighten. Top off the reservoir. Attached vinyl clear hose (8 mm outer diameter) to bleeding valve.
Bleeding
Bled the FR brake. After the first test bled right break again – no result. Next day bled all 4 brakes in the pattern RR-LF-LR-RF. There were some bubbles in the LF brake only.
Test drive
I drove at 35-40 mi/h on wet road and slammed hard on brakes. The car skids and pulls to left. In my option the same role can play a dirt road but there is no one close around. Now I am waiting for the next rain.
Results from the test
1. Car keeps pulling to left when step hard on brakes – sign, there is something wrong with the right brake. Now I am waiting for the rain to test it.
2. This car – Chevrolet Impala 2008 Luxury Trim doesn’t have ABS !!! Unbelievable!! GM corporation where is this safety feature??
By the way all brake pads and hardware were replaced a month ago (there were no symptom but I got a letter from the dealership saying they are worn and need replacement asap. After the removal pads look to me good and could be used for 2 years more. The only negative sign I noticed was there were worn unevenly)
The front bearings were replaced.
Wheel alignment was made.
I talked to my daughter, she noticed the car to pull to left months before to replace the brake hose.
Reason to replace FR hose – the caliper fell down from the hook to spring when I put it aside.
Removal
Removed the wheel, put a pan to catch the brake fluid, removed the hose to brake line 13mm + 16mm to hold in place (open end wrenches). Put the cap from bleeding valve on the line to plug it in. Removed bolt 10mm to bracket to disconnected end. Removed hose end to caliper – 11mm. Disconnect hose from bracket using flat screw driver and removed the retainer.
Installation
Installed retainer to bracket using small hammer. Screwed the hose lower end to caliper, bracket and upper end. Tighten. Top off the reservoir. Attached vinyl clear hose (8 mm outer diameter) to bleeding valve.
Bleeding
Bled the FR brake. After the first test bled right break again – no result. Next day bled all 4 brakes in the pattern RR-LF-LR-RF. There were some bubbles in the LF brake only.
Test drive
I drove at 35-40 mi/h on wet road and slammed hard on brakes. The car skids and pulls to left. In my option the same role can play a dirt road but there is no one close around. Now I am waiting for the next rain.
Results from the test
1. Car keeps pulling to left when step hard on brakes – sign, there is something wrong with the right brake. Now I am waiting for the rain to test it.
2. This car – Chevrolet Impala 2008 Luxury Trim doesn’t have ABS !!! Unbelievable!! GM corporation where is this safety feature??
By the way all brake pads and hardware were replaced a month ago (there were no symptom but I got a letter from the dealership saying they are worn and need replacement asap. After the removal pads look to me good and could be used for 2 years more. The only negative sign I noticed was there were worn unevenly)
The front bearings were replaced.
Wheel alignment was made.
I talked to my daughter, she noticed the car to pull to left months before to replace the brake hose.
Last edited by georgi6; March 25th, 2015 at 5:47 PM.
#7
Why did you do it like this?
RR-LF-LR-RF
I'm assuming the master cylinder is on the drivers side... (I haven't seen different) - So shouldn't it be RR-LR-RF-LF?
2012 is when federal law required them. You get what you pay for.
RR-LF-LR-RF
I'm assuming the master cylinder is on the drivers side... (I haven't seen different) - So shouldn't it be RR-LR-RF-LF?
2012 is when federal law required them. You get what you pay for.
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#9
#10
I can't believe it doesn't have abs either. What is the last 8 characters of the vin?
Did the master cylinder go dry?
If the brake pedal isn't deep or spongy you probably got all the air out during bleeding.
brake pull can be caused by this:
-worn suspension parts
-seized calipers pistons or pins
-pads not sliding in the caliper brackets
-leaking calipers or wheel cylinders
-restricted flex hoses
-improperly adjusted drum brakes
since the alignment was done...I assume a pre-alignment check was done to verify all the suspension components are good. Wouldn't the tech notice a brake pull on the test drive? Its a big safety issue?
I assume the professional who did the brake work checked the pistons moved back properly, cleaned and lubed the caliper pins and brackets and saw no signs of dragging brakes or contaminated linings. if it was backyarded...you can't just slap new parts in or squeeze the pistons back with monster c-clamps.
Did the master cylinder go dry?
If the brake pedal isn't deep or spongy you probably got all the air out during bleeding.
brake pull can be caused by this:
-worn suspension parts
-seized calipers pistons or pins
-pads not sliding in the caliper brackets
-leaking calipers or wheel cylinders
-restricted flex hoses
-improperly adjusted drum brakes
since the alignment was done...I assume a pre-alignment check was done to verify all the suspension components are good. Wouldn't the tech notice a brake pull on the test drive? Its a big safety issue?
I assume the professional who did the brake work checked the pistons moved back properly, cleaned and lubed the caliper pins and brackets and saw no signs of dragging brakes or contaminated linings. if it was backyarded...you can't just slap new parts in or squeeze the pistons back with monster c-clamps.
Last edited by tech2; March 25th, 2015 at 11:46 PM.