Driver's Side Air Door Actuator on 2012 Impala
I spent many hours yesterday trying to replace this part. I've gotten the new one halfway installed but couldn't get it screwed in.
I used alligator clips to run power to my new actuator and get the collar piece in similar position to the one I replaced. When I push it back on do the shaft for the air door, I can't get the screw holes to line up with the plastic housing behind it. Also, when I turn the temperature dial on the dash's control panel, the doors open and close properly but the part whines. I'm not sure if this is normal for a new actuator or if I didn't have it seated correctly.
A few of the videos I've seen have been mostly helpful but seem to make different claims about calibration which can't all be true. The most convincing one I've seen, he plugged the harness in and just turned the key to accessory mode. You could see the collar piece spinning for 30 seconds and he claimed this was setting the piece to its correct position.
I doubt there is any documentation on this from the manufacturer so unless it comes from a Chevy engineer or seasoned dealership technician, it's hard to tell who can be trusted.
Basically I'm just trying to get an idea of any similar experiences mine or ideas. I'm not mechanically incline for the most part but figured this was one I could tackle and save $200 in labor costs. I've scanned the forums here on this topic and haven't found exactly what I'm looking for yet (and maybe I won't). Figured I'd take a shot in the dark.
I used alligator clips to run power to my new actuator and get the collar piece in similar position to the one I replaced. When I push it back on do the shaft for the air door, I can't get the screw holes to line up with the plastic housing behind it. Also, when I turn the temperature dial on the dash's control panel, the doors open and close properly but the part whines. I'm not sure if this is normal for a new actuator or if I didn't have it seated correctly.
A few of the videos I've seen have been mostly helpful but seem to make different claims about calibration which can't all be true. The most convincing one I've seen, he plugged the harness in and just turned the key to accessory mode. You could see the collar piece spinning for 30 seconds and he claimed this was setting the piece to its correct position.
I doubt there is any documentation on this from the manufacturer so unless it comes from a Chevy engineer or seasoned dealership technician, it's hard to tell who can be trusted.
Basically I'm just trying to get an idea of any similar experiences mine or ideas. I'm not mechanically incline for the most part but figured this was one I could tackle and save $200 in labor costs. I've scanned the forums here on this topic and haven't found exactly what I'm looking for yet (and maybe I won't). Figured I'd take a shot in the dark.
powering the actuator with it removed from the hvac housing will move the actuator out of its operating range. It needs to be removed, the cover opened the the shaft centered. If its not centered it will not align with the housing door splines and mounting holes.
While the actuator is out, inspect the door shaft and splines for damage. Move the door shaft by hand...if the door doesn't move freely or completely from stop to stop...the problem is in the door or hvac housing.
if the door is fine and you get the new actuator installed; it does need calibration which requires a scan tool with bi-directional capabilities.
While the actuator is out, inspect the door shaft and splines for damage. Move the door shaft by hand...if the door doesn't move freely or completely from stop to stop...the problem is in the door or hvac housing.
if the door is fine and you get the new actuator installed; it does need calibration which requires a scan tool with bi-directional capabilities.
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