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2014 Chevrolet Impala
Includes: Bel-air
Platform: B-body & W-body

Fuel pump will not prime every time. ,3.4L V6

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Old Jul 1, 2021 | 2:15 PM
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Default Fuel pump will not prime every time. ,3.4L V6

Taking a chance here but I have a 2001 Pontiac Grand am with a 3.4 l V6 engine in it and 90,000 miles on it. About a year ago it became hard to start and I noticed the fuel pump was not priming every time. I would have to turn the key five or six or seven times then I would hear the pump prime and the car would start and run perfectly. I took it to the garage and left it for 6 months and they never found the issue other than they put a 2200 ohm resistor on the yellow wire going into the body control module and grounded the other end. This was supposed to simulate the passlock resistance on the Anti-Theft feature for the radio. Finally I called the guy and told him I would pay him off if he would just drive it to my house and leave it. Since I have cancer I was unable to work on it for 6 more months so I pulled the connectors off of the computer and sprayed them with CRC and all three connectors off of the body control module and spray them with CRC. On the first try with the key I could hear the fuel pump prime and I tried it five or six more times and it primed every time. But now it's back to the usual priming every 5th or 6th time. I started to buy a new computer but I feel like there may be an issue with the wiring going to the fuel pump relay from the computer. I haven't had anyone with me to measure the voltage for two or three seconds when the key is turned to the on position but I'm almost certain that it's not providing voltage. After I got it running the service vehicle soon lights on, the ABS light is on, and the track off light is on as well as the security light is on solid. I tried to reprogramming this security light by waiting 15 minutes and turning the key to the off position then trying to start the car but the lights stayed on. Can anyone help me with this? For a 20-year-old car it is an excellent shake with 90,000 miles and runs like a scalded dog when it runs. Thank you.
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Old Jul 1, 2021 | 2:23 PM
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From: kevinkpk
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Originally Posted by Mike1013
Taking a chance here but I have a 2001 Pontiac Grand am with a 3.4 l V6 engine in it and 90,000 miles on it. About a year ago it became hard to start and I noticed the fuel pump was not priming every time. I would have to turn the key five or six or seven times then I would hear the pump prime and the car would start and run perfectly. I took it to the garage and left it for 6 months and they never found the issue other than they put a 2200 ohm resistor on the yellow wire going into the body control module and grounded the other end. This was supposed to simulate the passlock resistance on the Anti-Theft feature for the radio. Finally I called the guy and told him I would pay him off if he would just drive it to my house and leave it. Since I have cancer I was unable to work on it for 6 more months so I pulled the connectors off of the computer and sprayed them with CRC and all three connectors off of the body control module and spray them with CRC. On the first try with the key I could hear the fuel pump prime and I tried it five or six more times and it primed every time. But now it's back to the usual priming every 5th or 6th time. I started to buy a new computer but I feel like there may be an issue with the wiring going to the fuel pump relay from the computer. I haven't had anyone with me to measure the voltage for two or three seconds when the key is turned to the on position but I'm almost certain that it's not providing voltage. After I got it running the service vehicle soon lights on, the ABS light is on, and the track off light is on as well as the security light is on solid. I tried to reprogramming this security light by waiting 15 minutes and turning the key to the off position then trying to start the car but the lights stayed on. Can anyone help me with this? For a 20-year-old car it is an excellent shake with 90,000 miles and runs like a scalded dog when it runs. Thank you.
Have you swapped the fuel pump relay?
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Old Jul 1, 2021 | 5:25 PM
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Originally Posted by kevinkpk
Have you swapped the fuel pump relay?
Yes, I did swap the fuel pump relay but it still did the same thing so I believe the relay is okay. I have searched the internet and found several issues on YouTube about the passlock sensor so I changed that with no difference and then changed back to the original so the keys would still match. Two times I was driving it to charge the battery up and it quit on me but restarted after 4:00 or 5 attempts of turning the key and drove normally. The garage had dropped the tank and put a new fuel pump in a thinking that was the problem so I'm pretty certain it's not the fuel pump. From what I can gather from the wiring diagram the initial signal to energize the relay comes from the PCM. I'm thinking about buying a new PCM or a used one from eBay and furnishing them my VIN number and giving that a go.
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Old Jul 1, 2021 | 8:08 PM
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You could be right regarding the PCM, but before getting involved there I would try to make sure the power is getting to the fuel pump connections at the tank.
If the power is insufficient,it could prevent the pump from starting up.

The PCM does ground the fuel pump relay for the usual 2-3 seconds on start up.
After either the oil pressure switch or RPM signal is received, the PCM keeps the fuel pump relay energized.
We need to verify the first 2-3 second from the PCM is energizing the fuel pump relay and go from there.
The PCM had to be working correctly after you sprayed the connections, so that would lead me to believe the PCM is capable of working correctly, but the power is not always getting to the pump assy..What happens if you spray the contacts again?
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Old Jul 1, 2021 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by hanky
You could be right regarding the PCM, but before getting involved there I would try to make sure the power is getting to the fuel pump connections at the tank.
If the power is insufficient,it could prevent the pump from starting up.

The PCM does ground the fuel pump relay for the usual 2-3 seconds on start up.
After either the oil pressure switch or RPM signal is received, the PCM keeps the fuel pump relay energized.
We need to verify the first 2-3 second from the PCM is energizing the fuel pump relay and go from there.
The PCM had to be working correctly after you sprayed the connections, so that would lead me to believe the PCM is capable of working correctly, but the power is not always getting to the pump assy..What happens if you spray the contacts again?
I'm currently in North Carolina where I take my cancer treatments but plan on going home in the next 2 or 3 weeks. I had planned on spraying the connectors again and seeing what happens and if my wife goes with me she will be able to operate the ignition key so I can check for voltage at the fuel pump relay. I'm not sure I would see a constant 12 volts on one side of the relay without a crank signal or an oil pressure signal. Can't quite comprehend that in my mind. Once I get by the initial prime of 23 seconds then the car starts up then we have a constant voltage directly to the fuel pump. The part I'm not sure about is that if the PCM does not supply the ground will there be 12 volts on the other terminal even though the relay is not energized? I have been trying to study the wire diagram on my laptop but moving back and forth between the pages is a little confusing. I really appreciate your comments on this issue and thank you.
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