Impala While undergoing many facelifts in its history, the Impala has proved itself to both civilians and police forces as one of the most capable 4-door cars GM has ever offered. Currently moving towards its 10th generation the Impala is one of the longest lasting and popular models.

2014 Chevrolet Impala
Includes: Bel-air
Platform: B-body & W-body

HVAC problems, plase help

Old Sep 25, 2009 | 10:01 PM
  #1  
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Default HVAC problems, plase help

Trying to see if I could get some advice on a problem I have with my 2001 Chevy Impala. I started having issues with the HVAC on this car recently, and started off by replacing the blower motor. It would stick every now and then, so figured it was time to be replaced.

I then had an issue with the bower speed controller ****- it would only work on #5, so I got a new resistor, and changed that out.

After installing the new resistor, I started the car, and turned everything back on. The blower speed controller does nothing now, nor does the AC work. When I do turn the blower speed controller ****, as I go from 1 to 5, the two buttons under this ****, (I believe they are the recirculation buttons,) first one button light comes on, and then as I go to the higher speeds, the other button indicator light comes on, and then on 5, they both come on. Blower does not come on.

I went ahead and got a replacement HVAC control assembly, and changed it out. Turned it back on, and it still does the same exact thing.

Anybody have an idea what this could be? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Scott
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 10:06 PM
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From: Bowie, MD
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Look for a blown fuse.
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 4:31 PM
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I have the same problem, I'm working on it now. My 2000 Chevy Impala A/C only works on the #5 Setting. Since the blower turns on, I know that the problem is not with the blower motor, and that I must be getting the required 115Vac, so it's not the HVAC (you shouldn't have tried to replace that). It's also not a fuse since you were once getting power. As best I can tell, the problem must be a short in the wiring going into the blower motor resistor. The first time I replace the resistor everything worked as it was supposed to. After a few days, I was back where I started. My best guess is that a short in the wiring is causing an over-current condition which is burning out the resistor pack (blower motor resistor). The only way to know for sure is to go out and get/borrow yourself a decent "multimeter" (fluke ~$130 (best), or craftsman ~$20 at sears (it'll get the job done)) and check the resistance going into the resistor pack. I'm on this forum looking for a wiring diagram for anyone reading this who wants to help me . Anyway, without the diagram you'll have to "easter egg" by checking the resistance from each prong in the plug to ground, and each to each other. the resistance should be very high (>500k ohms). Do it right and help yourself by keeping a logbook. write down each plug, and every combination in the sequence, and record each resistance. You'll need this if you want to save some man hours later when you have to pull out that wiring harness (it's extensive). While you're at it, check out the readings on that resistor pack, $26 at autozone will get you a new one, and I'd be willing to bet that if you blew a fuse, you blew that resistor (at least you saved your motor). Good luck.
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