OnDaGround

Do these cars used split voltage for our DRL lowbeams or is it always 12v constant? I am trying to decided whether or not to put them in today, or do it tomorrow when I have more time.

OnDaGround

Ok, so... these cars are equipped with a split voltage system. This means that your DRLs run at 6 volts to each headlight instead of the typical 12v used to make your headlights brighter at night (when they automatically turn on).

The issue: HIDs cannot function off of anything less than 12v. So when you put your kits in, only one light will function while the DRL system is activated. You have to manually turn on your headlights. I know, after all these years of auto lights, you've become lazy. Me too. lol

After looking at the wiring schematics for our cars I realized that you can simply unplug the relay to disable the DRLs. Does it work? Yes, only down fall... an instant check engine light. That's a rather annoying and inconvenient downfall.

Here is the solution to have active 12v constant to your new HID DRLs:

Behind the impact beam (the metal behind the bumper that saves your life) there is a little white box with a black and a gray wire running to it. It's actually more in front of the condenser. Anyways, that box is your DRL resistor. It clicks the ground on and off to control your DRLs 6v system. If you cut those wires and re-splice them, you will no longer be running a 6v system and you can have your 12v constant required to run your HIDs without flickering, or only one working. Is it safe? 100%, as long as you correctly insulate the wires properly. I suggest using shrink wrap, but you can use butt connectors and then wrap it in electrical tape if you don't think you can heat the wrap up with out burning your wires.

Anyways, I hope this helps people. If you have any questions feel free to ask. I'm going to get a pic of the splice, the location of the resistor and the way we wired it.

For now, I have a picture to help some of you remove your headlights. This is only for 1997-2003. Numbers 1 and 3 in the picture that the holes are circled on. Those are expanding pop rivets. You can either use the tool to remove them, a knife or flat-head screwdriver. Number 2 is a 10mm. After you remove those, that plastic piece slides out. You'll see your headlight and 2 black tabs that look like L's kind of. Pull those up, it may take a little force... just don't shrek it or anything. lol After that, the headlight slides right out. Just keep it supported. Never let it hang from the wires.

The other pics are my HIDs after installed.

OnDaGround

If you scroll over the pics they will get bigger. You can kind of see the ballast in one pic. We mounted it to the core support. You cannot mount the ballast to the frame. Anything metal could possibly ground it out. Then you can say good bye to your HIDs or your harness. Not good. Always unplug the battery first, or at least don't hook the ballast up until you have everything set up and you are sure its not touching anything grounded. This kit is supplied by our very own HIDextra.com sponsor. They've been great to work with and I love my kit. Altogether, it took 20 minutes to install them. 10 if we hadn't been messing off. lol The re-wiring for the DRL feature, that took about 20 as well. We didn't do it the same day. It's in a tight space, but is very doable. Just take your time and make sure that no wire is exposed to anything. Again, it will ground out and short your harness.

Hope this helps you guys. I know it sounds like something you don't want to take a chance with... its the opposite. Take your time and do it right. It was very easy. If you can do an oil change, you can do this. Even if you cannot. lol... I supplied you with the information needed.

ang4561

Hey man, that looks really nice! I installed an HID kit in my 2005 Pontiac G6, and I only wish it had those L-shaped tabs to release the headlight housing. I had a super hard time getting the headlight housings out (took me almost an hour just to get them out), about 20 minutes to install the HID kit. It almost seems that GM doesn't want us messing around with the headlights anymore! They don't even provide instructions in the '08 Malibu manual on how to replace your headlamp bulbs.

Out of curiosity, do you have remote keyless entry on your Malibu? If so, do you have Twilight Sentinel (basically, turns your lights on once you hit unlock)? I'm just wondering if it turns on your headlights or your high beams? The one disappointing thing on my G6, was that it used the high beams for Twilight Sentinel, and wished they used my low-beams since they were now brighter than the high-beams!

OnDaGround

Yeah I have RKE, and no the lights do not come on. I know what you're talking about. Just about every model Buick does that.

ROAD_DOG

yo OnDaGround were you got the hid kit i got a 1999 malibu and i am interested in getting a set thanks for your time bro

mikegps2009

[quote=OnDaGround;109610]Ok, so... these cars are equipped with a split voltage system. This means that your DRLs run at 6 volts to each headlight instead of the typical 12v used to make your headlights brighter at night (when they automatically turn on).

The issue: HIDs cannot function off of anything less than 12v. So when you put your kits in, only one light will function while the DRL system is activated. You have to manually turn on your headlights. I know, after all these years of auto lights, you've become lazy. Me too. lol

After looking at the wiring schematics for our cars I realized that you can simply unplug the relay to disable the DRLs. Does it work? Yes, only down fall... an instant check engine light. That's a rather annoying and inconvenient downfall.

Here is the solution to have active 12v constant to your new HID DRLs:

Behind the impact beam (the metal behind the bumper that saves your life) there is a little white box with a black and a gray wire running to it. It's actually more in front of the condenser. Anyways, that box is your DRL resistor. It clicks the ground on and off to control your DRLs 6v system. If you cut those wires and re-splice them, you will no longer be running a 6v system and you can have your 12v constant required to run your HIDs without flickering, or only one working. Is it safe? 100%, as long as you correctly insulate the wires properly. I suggest using shrink wrap, but you can use butt connectors and then wrap it in electrical tape if you don't think you can heat the wrap up with out burning your wires.

Anyways, I hope this helps people. If you have any questions feel free to ask. I'm going to get a pic of the splice, the location of the resistor and the way we wired it.

For now, I have a picture to help some of you remove your headlights. This is only for 1997-2003. Numbers 1 and 3 in the picture that the holes are circled on. Those are expanding pop rivets. You can either use the tool to remove them, a knife or flat-head screwdriver. Number 2 is a 10mm. After you remove those, that plastic piece slides out. You'll see your headlight and 2 black tabs that look like L's kind of. Pull those up, it may take a little force... just don't shrek it or anything. lol After that, the headlight slides right out. Just keep it supported. Never let it hang from the wires.

The other pics are my HIDs after installed.

Yeah, your car looks really nice with those HIDs installed