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Safe Mode after Oil Change?

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Old July 10th, 2011, 2:24 PM
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Default Safe Mode after Oil Change?

Car: 4-Cylinder 2006 Chevy Malibu 2.2 ltr engine.

I took my car in to get the oil changed yesterday, everything appeared to be fine afterwards. A few hours later as I was on the freeway, it seemed as I couldn't go over a certain rpm, and I was quickly loosing speed. It almost appeared as if the gear wasn't catching. After a few minutes, the issue seemed to have passed, and I was able to speed up and get home. It was only 5-6 miles for the entire trip. This morning I hopped in the car, started it up, and after about half a mile the car died on me while I was going 40 mph. I put it in nuetral but was unable to restart it. I managed to put on my hazards and get over to the side of the road, where I took the keys out, popped the hood, and checked oil levels which appeared to be fine, and I was then able to start the car again, but when revving the engine, it wouldn't go over about 2000 rpms, it would just start to lose pressure. Based on a little research this would appear to be a safe mode, which I think I can get it out of by disconnecting the negative connector to the battery.

I'm only used to working on pre-2000 vehicles, and I'm beginner/intermidiate at best. I don't know what would cause the car to go into safe mode, if it would be related to the oil change I got yesterday, or if it would be wise to take it out of safe mode. I'm not getting any 'Check Engine' lights or anything and so have no idea's whats going on.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Old July 10th, 2011, 3:14 PM
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Welcome to the forum. This place you took it to get the oil changed, they probably "inspected" other things. The problem is, we are not talking about ASE-certified master mechanics here. Whoever worked on your vehicle may have left something partially connected or, worse, damaged it. If you don't see anything out of place, take it back or take it to a real mechanic.
Old July 10th, 2011, 4:09 PM
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The place is closed, and I was hoping to be able to get it resolved today. I do plan on taking it back tomorrow, I'll call in first and talk with the guy. I'm just really worried because this is my only vehicle right now.
Old July 10th, 2011, 8:07 PM
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Originally Posted by BPDragon01
Car: 4-Cylinder 2006 Chevy Malibu 2.2 ltr engine.

....and I was then able to start the car again, but when revving the engine, it wouldn't go over about 2000 rpms....
In Park or Neutral, I would expect the RPM to be limited to some value. I do not know what that number is for the 2.2 liter engine.
....Based on a little research this would appear to be a safe mode, which I think I can get it out of by disconnecting the negative connector to the battery.
Tell me more about this "safe mode". My modern passenger car operating/DIY diagnostic/repair experience includes Cadillac, Chevrolet, Oldsmobile (RIP), and Pontiac (RIP), and I have no idea what your "safe mode" is.
Old July 11th, 2011, 2:14 AM
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Originally Posted by JimWD
In Park or Neutral, I would expect the RPM to be limited to some value. I do not know what that number is for the 2.2 liter engine.
I would also expect it to be limited in some value, but 2000 RPM when the max is about 7-8000, and it shifts at about 5000 seems a little ridiculous.



Originally Posted by JimWD
Tell me more about this "safe mode". My modern passenger car operating/DIY diagnostic/repair experience includes Cadillac, Chevrolet, Oldsmobile (RIP), and Pontiac (RIP), and I have no idea what your "safe mode" is.
Well, I actually can't seem to find it for Chevy Malibu, but the term is 'Engine Fail Safe Mode' which limits the RPM to prevent further damage to the car. Apparently this actuallly doesn't apply to my car, because I can find no further information on it.

Another term for it is 'Limp Home Mode':
Limp home mode defined, computer, sensor diagnosis, driveability, check engine, service engine soon



So for this issue, not going over 2000 RPM, I've heard it could be the following:
Mis-Firing
Cat Converter
Clogged Exhaust
Oil Pump

Tomorrow I'm planning on taking it down to the shop, I need to have the Transmission Serviced (replace fluid, filter and gasket)
Tune-Up
Front Brakes Replaced.

I'm unfortunately not allowed to work on cars here at my apartment complex, so I'm about to pay a lot of money to get this done. I'm just hoping that it will take care of this. I'm not looking forward to limping my car down to the place to get this done. Not to mention my jack stands and all my tools are about 40 Miles away from where I'm working on my Surrogate Mom's Truck.
Old July 12th, 2011, 1:15 PM
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Talking

I ended up taking it to the shop I got my oil changed at. Turned out my Cat Converter was clogged and even cracked. Because it was sending exhaust back into the engine, it was also causing it to misfire. Replacement cost $1000 for the cat. I also has the transmission flushed, and the front brakes replace. $1600 later and my car now has power that I havent seen in it for a while.
Old July 12th, 2011, 5:33 PM
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Thanks for the update. Hope that's all there's to it, then.
Old July 12th, 2011, 6:45 PM
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Originally Posted by BPDragon01
I ended up taking it to the shop I got my oil changed at.
Yikes!
Turned out my Cat Converter was clogged and even cracked.
Your car is covered by a Federal Emission Control System Warranty for 8 years OR 80,000 miles on the catalytic converter and other emissions control parts. A GM service department would be required to replace a damaged catalytic converter under warranty IF you have less than 80,000 miles on the vehicle.
Because it was sending exhaust back into the engine, it was also causing it to misfire.
A "clogged" converter can make it difficult for the the engine to exhale as designed. But the exhaust gases are not being pulled back in through the intake system.
$1600 later and my car now has power that I havent seen in it for a while.
More Yikes! But if you are pleased with the results, I wish you happy motoring.
Old July 13th, 2011, 3:27 AM
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Originally Posted by JimWD
Yikes!Your car is covered by a Federal Emission Control System Warranty for 8 years OR 80,000 miles on the catalytic converter and other emissions control parts. A GM service department would be required to replace a damaged catalytic converter under warranty IF you have less than 80,000 miles on the vehicle.
My car currently has 82,000 miles last I checked. So while I haven't exceeded the time limit, I have barely exceeded the mileage.


Originally Posted by JimWD
A "clogged" converter can make it difficult for the the engine to exhale as designed. But the exhaust gases are not being pulled back in through the intake system.
It's how the guy explained it to me. It wouldn't be pulled back in through the intake, but because it couldn't escape the cat, it would in effect be pushed back up through the exhaust.

Overall, the car has improved power, and I'm hoping the gas milage will be better now too.
Old July 13th, 2011, 7:19 AM
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Your gas mileage should definitely improve, but you really got taken advantage of at those prices. Did they give you a tube of KY Jelly too? There is no way that a catalytic converter plus the labor to replace it justifies $1,000. I would tell you to call some of your local parts places and check their prices, but you may go postal on the place that did the work if you do. Just leave it alone and next time something happens, do some price checks before allowing someone to replace parts for you.


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