91 lumina wont start
#1
91 lumina wont start
i stopped at a light,my 91 lumina euro 3.1 died,wont start back up,it cranks,it has spark,its gettin fuel,had the ignition module checked,replaced the coils and crank sensor,sprayed starting fluid in the intake and nothing,still wont start,is there something i am missing
#2
Motleyman,
Have you tested the starter motor to determine if it's bad? If not then here is the procedure for doing that:
1. Make the connections as shown in the accompanying figure:
2. Close the switch and compare the RPM, current and voltage readings with the following values: 3.1L engine: No load test @ 10 volts--45-75 amps, RPM at drive pinion--6,000-11,000 rpm
3. Rated current draw and no load speed indicates normal condition of the starter motor.
4. Low free speed and high current draw indicates:
Too much friction. Tight, dirty, or worn bushings, bent armature shaft allowing armature to drag.
Shorted armature. This can be further checked on a growler after disassembly.
Grounded armature or fields. Check further after assembly.
5. Failure to operate with high current draw indicates:
A direct ground in the terminal or fields.
"Frozen'' bearings.
6. Failure to operate with low or no current draw indicates:
Open solenoid windings.
Open field circuit. This can be checked after disassembly by inspecting internal connections and tracing the circuit with a test lamp.
Open armature coils. Inspect the commutator for badly burned bar after disassembly.
Broken brush springs, worn brushes, high insulation between the commutator bars of other causes which would prevent good contact between the brushes and commutator.
7. Low no-load speed and low current draw indicates:
High internal resistance due to poor connections, defective leads, dirty commutator and causes listed under Step 6.
8. High free speed and high current drain usually indicate shorted fields. If shorted fields are suspected, replace the field and frame assembly. Also check for shorted armature using a growler.
If you have concluded that the starter is bad then you should replace it. The OEM starter costs $208 from the dealer and $148 from OEM parts sites like gmpartsgiant.com.
If your starter is good then I would look into battery issues. Are the terminals properly hooked up to the battery?
Have you tested the starter motor to determine if it's bad? If not then here is the procedure for doing that:
1. Make the connections as shown in the accompanying figure:
2. Close the switch and compare the RPM, current and voltage readings with the following values: 3.1L engine: No load test @ 10 volts--45-75 amps, RPM at drive pinion--6,000-11,000 rpm
3. Rated current draw and no load speed indicates normal condition of the starter motor.
4. Low free speed and high current draw indicates:
Too much friction. Tight, dirty, or worn bushings, bent armature shaft allowing armature to drag.
Shorted armature. This can be further checked on a growler after disassembly.
Grounded armature or fields. Check further after assembly.
5. Failure to operate with high current draw indicates:
A direct ground in the terminal or fields.
"Frozen'' bearings.
6. Failure to operate with low or no current draw indicates:
Open solenoid windings.
Open field circuit. This can be checked after disassembly by inspecting internal connections and tracing the circuit with a test lamp.
Open armature coils. Inspect the commutator for badly burned bar after disassembly.
Broken brush springs, worn brushes, high insulation between the commutator bars of other causes which would prevent good contact between the brushes and commutator.
7. Low no-load speed and low current draw indicates:
High internal resistance due to poor connections, defective leads, dirty commutator and causes listed under Step 6.
8. High free speed and high current drain usually indicate shorted fields. If shorted fields are suspected, replace the field and frame assembly. Also check for shorted armature using a growler.
If you have concluded that the starter is bad then you should replace it. The OEM starter costs $208 from the dealer and $148 from OEM parts sites like gmpartsgiant.com.
If your starter is good then I would look into battery issues. Are the terminals properly hooked up to the battery?
#5
If any injector has shorted they all will not work. Will exhibit the described symptoms but the starter fluid test should have given some quick firing run unless the pedal was not floored by a second person in the car. 1/2 second squirt. Shorts happen in this model somewhat often under the plenum for the 2 small wiring bundles feeding the injectors. Test OHM per injector if plenum is removed. Spec is 12-14. Heat with vibration can rub these 2 bundles on the plenum or block and a small spot of bare wire gounding will give the above symptoms.
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