Have a 200 mc ss, have been having this problem, have been troubleshooting the issue, and still can not find out the problem. the car would die over night. just today took it to a place the specializes in auto electrical problems. They could not find the issue either said that is is something with the audio system. I have unplugged the factory radio and amp and the car would still die. Lately the battery is draining within a couple of hours. Dont even take over night. I have changed the battery, the alt, the bcm, the factory amp, the battery ports and just today put a new factory harness in there. Have to pull the radio/amp and clstr/bcm fuses in order for the car to not die. I took the car to chevy and they changed to battery ports and the car was fine for a couple of days, but went right back to dying again. I am just at a lost!!! Please Any Suggestions?

 

Do you have a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) capable of reading mA?

 

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I look forward to your reply.

Louis
GM Customer Service

 

Thanks for the reply, but yea i do and i used that. I set the meter to 10A, the reading i was getting out 1.68amp when car was off. With the radio and amp unplugged i was getting around 0.69amps. So i started pulling fuses and when i pulled the fuse labeled CLSTR/BCM (Cluster , Body Control Module, Data Link Connector (Batter) TrapAlert System).The meter would drop down to 0.02 amps. Now i dont know if that is because that is shutting off most electric stuff in the car. But replaced the BCM so i dont know. i also starting to notice a little flickering of my lights in my cluster and headlight.

Also several times when it rained, i would open the passenger door and see a puddle of water on the floor. now i dont know if that water got to anything but i was only on the passenger side. Another thing is that my rear defogger do not work. Now i am telling all this because i do not know if all this have something to do with the draw.

 

Did you let everything time out when performing the test? You need to unplug the ip cluster from the back and re run the test.

 

Yes i let it sit for about 20 mins. And sorry but is that the instrument panel?

Also here are some of the things i tried: unplugging the radio, which both fuses plugged in and it still died(so that eliminated a the radio being the issue), unplugged the instrument panel, which both fuses in and it still died, unplugged the radio and factory amp, and it still died. I used to be able to just pull the radio/amp fuse and it would not die over night, but know that dont work i have to pull both fuses in order for it not to die. Is it possible that the instrument panel to cause the draw?

 

Yes that is the instrument panel. Un plug it and run the draw test again

 

Hey sorry for the late response and thank you for trying to help me. But here is an update, and i think i know what the prob is now.

So last week tues i took my car to the dealership for them to find the prob, comes back that they do not see a draw on the car, the max they see is 35ma which is really good. The car sat with them for 4 days and it did not die. So i got the car back friday this week, drove it friday and sat. Let the car sit for sat afternoon until sunday night and battery is dead.

So today decided to do a draw test myself on the car to double check what the dealer did and i am getting the same 3-4ma. So there is no draw on the car.

Than i thought about it that whenever the test is performed, the negative batt port have to be disconnected which will shut everything of in the car. Where as if i am just driving and i turn off the car( ignition switch ) it could still be leaving something on which you wouldnt find if you perform the parasitic draw test.

So now i really believe that i have a bad ignition switch, Than i was talking to the person i bought the car from and i mentioned the ignition switch, they than said that they had the ignition switch replaced not to long ago before selling it and that is when that started noticing the prob.

Now my question is how much is it usually to replace the ignition switch?

 

Some where around 300

 

is it possible that something is wrong with the ignition switch that could be fixed rather than replacing it, since it is semi-new or would just have to replace it. like is see that there is a casing and the actual switch