Monte Carlo & Lumina Since the 1970s, the Monte Carlo has been an icon of American stock car racing. A 4-door version, the Lumina, was produced in the late 90's.
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How do I bypass the anti-theft key sensor device?

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Old May 16, 2020 | 9:04 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by kevinkpk
Regardless of the key in the switch, off, on doesn't matter as the BCM will be reading the resistor all the time. The bcm dosen't power off with the switch, it has to have voltage milli amp to keep it alive.
Quick question: while I'm awaiting some resistors to come in the mail, I went out to check again what was happening. The car wouldn't start.
With the switch in the on position, this occurs:
1) The dinging happens at normal pace and sound (door open)
2) No lights on the dash illuminated
3) When the switch is pushed to start, there is a slight clicking sound (reminds me of back in the day when a starter relay didn't have enough power from the battery to turn over. But the battery and alternator check out as good and within spec
4) As an aside, when I tried this a few days ago at my daughter's after checking (pulling out and bench testing) the alternator and battery, I used my son in laws key and it started right up. I have the son in law's key now and this....


Still wondering about this PassKey system causing all this as well as the stall (if they are related).
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Old May 16, 2020 | 9:16 AM
  #12  
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From: kevinkpk
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Originally Posted by clanofwolves
Quick question: while I'm awaiting some resistors to come in the mail, I went out to check again what was happening. The car wouldn't start.
With the switch in the on position, this occurs:
1) The dinging happens at normal pace and sound (door open)
2) No lights on the dash illuminated
3) When the switch is pushed to start, there is a slight clicking sound (reminds me of back in the day when a starter relay didn't have enough power from the battery to turn over. But the battery and alternator check out as good and within spec
4) As an aside, when I tried this a few days ago at my daughter's after checking (pulling out and bench testing) the alternator and battery, I used my son in laws key and it started right up. I have the son in law's key now and this....


Still wondering about this PassKey system causing all this as well as the stall (if they are related).
What you are describing dosen't sound like a security issue, it is strange that one key works, other does not. If it where a security issue, it simply will not start. Compare the two keys, is one worn more than the other etc.?
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Old May 17, 2020 | 9:11 AM
  #13  
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Yes, but they both don't work now.
Not sure about the dash lights when the ignition is on. Is that a security thing or something else?
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Old May 17, 2020 | 9:48 AM
  #14  
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From: kevinkpk
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Originally Posted by clanofwolves
Yes, but they both don't work now.
Not sure about the dash lights when the ignition is on. Is that a security thing or something else?
You'll have everything except fuel if it is VATS issue. You might invest in a new ignition switch as when you posted no dash lights. If you do replace the switch, just remember the two orange wires that read the key, be careful not to route them where they can be nicked or cut by the wheel.
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Old Jan 18, 2022 | 10:17 AM
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Hello,
wondering if you solve the problem, i have a bit the same problem on a Chevy Express 2500, 2005 and it is killing me.

Randomnly the van doesnt start even if it crank well.
Randomnly the van stall while driving.

Every time it happen, it doesnt start if I crank it right after, but ALWAYS start if I wait 10 minutes and start back. (passlock learning procedure???)

I have seen the security light 2 or 3 time but the problem happened 50 times since 2 years. more and more often.

I have unplugged and plug back the small security wire on the key cylinder and now the security light is always ON. And van is starting anyway even with the light on.

Thank for your help and time!
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