To the right of the yellow extension cord, the vertical piece of metal, is what's left of the stud from the outer tie rod, this is on the passenger side.
I will try what you said tomorrow.
You are so very correct, on a car repair, I have a whole new respect for mechanics.
I'm into it to far to turn back now.
Trust me, already done the regret and wishing I'd of just taken it in to a professional.

 

Tech 2: yes, this is where outer tie rod attaches, passenger side. To the right of yellow cord, is what's left of stud from tie rod.
I will look up Eric's videos. Also, I couldn't agree with you more on people needing to do something like this, to get an appreciation for mechanics! Mine has definitely been renewed. And I've only just begun!

 

I will help you through each step. Hope you are in a heated garage.


when you get the tie rod out of the knuckle...unscrew and remove the outer tie rod from the inner tie rod.


next install a strap to hold the steering wheel; hook to the driver seat frame...loop it up and across the steering wheel and back down to the seat frame. doesn't have to be tight...just enough to stop the steering wheel from doing a complete turn. some people use the seat belt.


why do this? you do not want to break the clockspring when the steering shaft is removed from the rack.
next, move the intermediate shaft boot up to access the sector shaft coupling bolt. remove the bolt and tap the intermediate shaft free of the rack sector shaft.

 

Got the stud out! Now on to removing the rack.
Tech 2- I hit the knuckle on the face, Nothing. Wound up, with a friends assistance, put a socket on top of the remaining stud. Put a c clamp over socket and bottom of stud. Cranked like heck. Finally, POP! The sound of success!

 

What is the clockspring? I'm asking because the blinkers do not shut off after completing a turn. This was preexisting.
Is something to look at while removing the rack? Or a separate issue.

 

the clockspring or sir coil is the electrical connection for everything on the steering wheel. if the steering wheel turns to far because its disconnected from the rack...the ribbon in the clockspring will break. we want the steering in a strainght ahjead position when everything comes off so it can be indexed correctly when the new rack is installed. if its indexed wrong, the clockspring will break when the wheels are turned to the steering stops.


most of the time the problem for a signal that won't cancel is a bad turn signal switch.

 

Got the old rack out, new ones in. Noticed that the Haynes book said to replace the subframe bolts. What is the purpose? The threads look good, bolts look fine.

 

just reuse your old bolts if they look fine.i have only replaced them when the threads were questionable.

 

I was hoping to hear that.
Next question, how in the world do you hook the steering u-joint up to the stub shaft? I fought that for 20 minutes, finally gave up for the night. ANY insight is _greatly_ appreciated!!!?

 

push the boot up with a pry bar. with your free hand, set the intermediate shaft into place.