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New motor in truck and won't start I really need help!!!!

Old Jun 7, 2014 | 2:49 AM
  #1  
Kowboy52's Avatar
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Default New motor in truck and won't start I really need help!!!!

Hey everyone I'm new here, I've got this 98 half ton I've poured the last two years of my life into haha paid $500 for it(box and both passenger doors dented as well as motor had 3 dropped rods) so I stole the "rebuilt" motor from my grandparents old Tahoe (didn't have 150,000k on it but it was a crappy rebuild done by a crappy engine shop) and ran that motor for about 8,000 k in my truck before she cratered(still ran but went 430k per tank of fuel and burnt 2 litres of oil in 45k as well as it only had 17 psi oil pressure upon cold start and 10 psi at 100km/hr and after 15 mins driving it had 2psi pressure at an idle on my mechanical gauge) so I got a 2 year old crate engine with less then 40,000 km on it (was in a dune buggy) motor was converted to carbureted with a flat tapit rv style cam (yes I know there is no such thing as an rv cam but this way you know what I mean) so I yanked cam and replaced it with another rv style cam with rollers, vortec intake, spider, crank sensor, knock sensor, ect ect to return this motor to a vortec. So I get the "new" motor installed and all my sensors and crap hooked up timing set properly (#1 TDC of compression stroke) valves set using running mates, and distributer dropped in place with the rotor pointing towards #1, cleaned up all ground wires(had grounding issues in the past with it), checked for fuel (pump cycling and relief valve bled) hook up battery, turn key...nothing...it just cranks over. Checked codes and comes up with "crankshaft position circuit a fault" (this isn't the first time I've seen this as it always threw that code with the other engine) so I checked resistance to sensor with multi metre and checked wires and the sensor is functioning properly (receiving an sending power) checked and cleaned grounds again. Same thing. Now for the weird part...my coil has power (12v) but I've got no spark to plugs or plug wires, change pickup in distributer, still won't start, change rotor and cap. No go. Got used distributer from a wreckers ($75 is better then the $286 the shop wanted) and still no spark. Again tried a couple other coils, caps, rotors, different set of plug wires, checked grounds. Still no spark... What the heck to I check next?? I've double and triple checked all wires and plugs and sensors ect are hooked up properly and what not, all sensors were functioning in old motor (old motor had knock sensor replaced) so if the old motor ran with these sensors why won't this one? I know the motor runs as I herd it before I bought it and it's got amazing compression and like I said I've got fuel but no spark. I'm really frustrated after all this running around and the countless dollars and hours invested I don't want to give up yet!! I didn't know this before but apparently if your removing a motor or tranny ect you need to reset computer? The way I was just told how to do this is when you unplug the battery you turn on headlights and things like that in order to completely drain all electricity out of all capacitors, wires, resistors ect. Had anyone else ever been told this? Has anyone else ever had this issue? What the heck can I do to fix it? I miss my truck and my wallet is getting sore from driving my dads old 97 6.5 diesel everywhere and paying insurance on something I can't move out of the shop haha...is my computer fried? Is it wiring? Ground issue? And plz plz plz don't say "cut your losses and take it to a shop" I'm not planning on taking it anywhere until it's running (at which point the timing needs electronically adjusted via expensive scanner I can't afford) I've been through every nut and bolt on this thing and me and my grandfather (used to the good 'ol 350s where it only needs 1 wire to run) are running out of ideas and time and money haha plz any help is appreciated because I really don't know what to do!! Can I try a different computer? (My grandpa has a 96 that's identical to mine) does the computer have to match 100%? (Like if I have a k1500 with 4l60e and manual floor shift transfer case will a computer for a 2wd or electronic push button transfer case work?) I'm really struggling here guys so as much info you can give as soon as you can give it will be so greatly appreciated!!!!
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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 6:50 AM
  #2  
nj85z28's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Vernon, NJ
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Welcome, Kowboy52! Make sure to browse the forum for more info about your car and feel free to post any specific questions you have about your vehicle in the tech sections.
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