My truck starts up fine no problem while cold, but as soon as it gets warm and I try to start it again it just cracks over and over and usually takes me around 5-10 minutes to get it started again. It only does this if I’m let’s say running errands and I’m in and out, but it’d it’s site for a while then it will start back up fine

Here’s what I have changed:
distributor
cap and rotor
iac
rebuilt TBI
O2
fuel pump

 

Could be a myriad of issues, but fall into 3 categories-intermittent fuel delivery, a failing fuel system elec mod control, or ignition elec...does the truck smoke any for a bit when ya need to do those warm starts?-that may be a sign that a/some/or all spider injectors are leaking by, or a control module isnt shutting down the injector/s, allowing gas to dump after shutoff, momentarily...which basically floods the truck upon restart...also, a momentary lack of signal TO the injectors when it is warm will also cause a hard start......or, u could possibly have an issue of getting fuel pressure...as I stated, this is only a few possible cause, aint sayin' any are yours.....Me, i'd start simple-remove a spark plug when truck wont start and check for spark-that will eliminate or confirm 1/3 of the map-ignition elec...yeah, means carryin necc tools around and doin it in a parkin lot or some some other really inconvenient spot or replicating the issue while at home and in yer garage........this is a good example of why mechanics have these expensive live data OBD tools-to eliminate throwing parts, prayin' one will finally solve the issue....I feel your pain when ya just dont know where to start/look, but sometime, just paying a Prof mech for a diagnosis is money well spent.....just spit balling here.....good luck and please post back when issue is found....

 

Fuel pressure was good to go, and I tested the coolant temp sensor with a volt meter and it was good as well, I replaced the map sensor and nothing changed, but I did run into something strange, I had an old ignition coil laying around and I piped it in and it ran an engine light and ran terrible, but it fired right up every time, so I put the old one back on and it seems to be cranking pretty consistent, could this mean I reset mine or needs a new one?

 

Heat is the enemy of failing electrical components. Things like coils and ICM's may be fine at cold start, but become intermittent once up to operating temps.

 

I’ll keep y’all updated on the situation, doing more driving tomorrow to see if the crank stays consistent, if so you think I should put in a new coil?

 

Sounds like you narrow'd down the 3 categories to 1-elec. IF when you stated "it ran an engine light and ran terrible, did you mean the "check engine" dash indicator lit up and the temporary coil was used while u were experiencing the "wont start warm" condition?....if so, plug in an OBDII tool and what the code/s is/are.....yes, please keep us posted

 

Yes the engine check light was on, now when I say I swapped it out with a coil sitting around I just plug it up and didn’t bolt it in, did it have to be bolted in (grounded)?

 

not to my knowledge...now OBDII time, to see what's throw'n the ck engine light

 

Unfortunately mine is OBD 1 and right now I have the original one in there and it doesn’t have a light, that was just one I tried for a lap around the block and it threw a light but it was cranking like a champ, no hesitation at all, so I took it out and put the original one back in

 

brain cramp-my mistake, OBD I, being a '94...glad to hear issue resolved