spike1269

well my truck wouldnt start today, so I ran the scanner and p0101 and p0300. So I cleaned the old MAF sensor and put it back on. broke lose all of the intake tubing and cleaned. cleared the codes and started the truck..It ran great, I thought it was 100% it ran so good..I was able to hit the gas and it seemed to rev up just fine..I ran it for about ten minutes and seemed fine.I shut off the truck tightened everything up getting ready for road test, had to re-tork the wheels they were back on the truck but not tight from when I did compression check and changed the plugs. I started the truck back up and again it ran great.. This time i hit the throttle on the throttle body and reved to prolly 3500 to 4000 rpm and then it just fell on its face again. Then threw the P0101 code again. I have read about everything I can think of on the web. I dont know if both MAF sensors are bad, If its a weak coil. I have also read that the vacuum pump will collect water after sitting is this true does anyone one know?? I have heard that if water hits the MAF then it will cause this. Is the vacuum pump connected to the MAF in anyway?? I found a used coil and coil module Im going to put on tomorrow, and try and find this vacuum pump tank and see if there is any water in there.. Also I have a warranty on the used MAF and it runs way better with the one off the truck then the used one I bought, so I'm going to get another used one tomorrow and will just swap them..Sorry bout how long and drug out this is. You all are my only hope other than just playing with this and trial and error. Thanks to anyone following this and or reading it.

spike1269

well I thought i had another MAF.. Guy said he had a like new one. So I went and picked one up. well It looked like mine so I tried to put it on. It must be off a v8 vortec motor it was bigger in diameter then mine and wouldnt fit. So I will be going back tomorrow and see if I can find another one. Today Im back to getting P0300 and P0101 code. I was limited to the amount of time I had.. I had a kid home from school sick and didnt get to get my fuel. I did find a coil tho. will try and look at the dizzy and rotor button tomorrow and fuel pressure test.

spike1269

I have done a lot of reading and heard the fuel pump pressure should be at about 50psi to be good, I have seen them run a a little under 40psi and just didnt run right. I was just reading a site that said that 60psi isnt good enough, he said unless you have 66psi then you have or will have fuel issues.. please help and or tell me what fuel psi I need for testing tomorrow..

saber35

I'm a new member here and have been reading posts related to my problem. I gotta say I'm stunned at the lack of replies on this site. If your problem hasn't been resolved I would say with the amount of mileage you have, to check your distributor for excessive play. Pull the cap off and twist the rotor left and right. It should barely have any free play. If it moves more than that, your drive gear on the lower distributor shaft is getting worn. (it's common on the 4.3L engines) This will eventually cause a PO300.

JIMMYDRIVER1

You can rip the top off an old 9v battery and solder wires on and use it as a new battery plug. I would suggest you check all of your vacuum lines for cracks and leaks. Also, the purge cannister I am told has a purge solenoid. The electrical contacts there are prone to corrosion. Check every electrical connection at every sensor. If it acts up when reaching a certain temp maybe your temp sensor is bad. search you tube for videos on how to clean the intake with sea foam.