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S-10 & Blazer1982-2005
The S-10 and Blazer was arguably the most versatile and accessorizable mid-size truck and SUV on the market.
Platform: S/T-series & GMT 330
I just bought a 96 s10 2.2. It came with the ac bypassed so I got a compressor and belt and installed and added Freon. The clutch won’t engage and I’m getting po530 refrigerant pressure sensor. I put in a new sensor hoping that would fix the issue but it has not. Their is no power at the connector to the compressor. It blows air but not cold and the controls in the cab aren’t acting right. It takes along time to respond when going from hot to cold air (well not really cold right now) and has gotten stuck on hot even when I turn the ****. Also takes a long time when I switch from feet or defrost to come out the dash vents. My scanner picks ups .20 volts high side pressure sensor, ac request yes, ac pressure out of range yes. I’ve been reading about this code all day and I really cant figure out where to start. Any help is appreciated
I just bought a 96 s10 2.2. It came with the ac bypassed so I got a compressor and belt and installed and added Freon. The clutch won’t engage and I’m getting po530 refrigerant pressure sensor. I put in a new sensor hoping that would fix the issue but it has not. Their is no power at the connector to the compressor. It blows air but not cold and the controls in the cab aren’t acting right. It takes along time to respond when going from hot to cold air (well not really cold right now) and has gotten stuck on hot even when I turn the ****. Also takes a long time when I switch from feet or defrost to come out the dash vents. My scanner picks ups .20 volts high side pressure sensor, ac request yes, ac pressure out of range yes. I’ve been reading about this code all day and I really cant figure out where to start. Any help is appreciated
Did you use an A/C system vacuum pump to get all the air out of the system before you added the R-134A? What high and low pressure reading are you getting?
Did you use an A/C system vacuum pump to get all the air out of the system before you added the R-134A? What high and low pressure reading are you getting?
No I just filled it with the can of Freon. I don’t have the vacuum or gauges but I guess I’ll be going to get them.
So I went out and got a manifold gauge and vacuum. I ran the vacuum with the gauges wide open for 30 minutes and the needle never moved. I think I found the leak but I’m gonna get a can of dye to make sure that’s the only one. I mean I’ve never measured refrigerant I just used the little gauge on the can until it reads full and never had any problems but I know it calls for 32oz now so when it’s time to refill. Hopefully that’s what’s setting off the sensor and everything else
I could use some help with the name of these parts. I can’t find them anywhere and they don’t come up any related item search. The first one is for the ac control in the dash. It is the switch attached inside to the **** that changes from ac on/off/ac max and which vents it blows out of. Currently it is blowing out of feet and defroster on all setting. Maybe fixing the leak with turn of the sensor allowing the clutch to engage and this controller to work but if not I might need to replace the switch. I found the whole ac dash control component for $200 and all the other components individually except for this one. Any leads would be appreciated.
The second one the shaft/bearing on the engine fan pulley bracket. Again I found the whole setup for $100 but if I can get the shaft/bearing for $20 and press it in I would rather do that. Thanks again for help!
I could use some help with the name of these parts. I can’t find them anywhere and they don’t come up any related item search. The first one is for the ac control in the dash. It is the switch attached inside to the **** that changes from ac on/off/ac max and which vents it blows out of. Currently it is blowing out of feet and defroster on all setting. Maybe fixing the leak with turn of the sensor allowing the clutch to engage and this controller to work but if not I might need to replace the switch. I found the whole ac dash control component for $200 and all the other components individually except for this one. Any leads would be appreciated.
The second one the shaft/bearing on the engine fan pulley bracket. Again I found the whole setup for $100 but if I can get the shaft/bearing for $20 and press it in I would rather do that. Thanks again for help!
How long was the A/C system open to atmo? If a long time, you'll almost certainly have H2O in the polyalkylene glycol oil, as ii is a fully synthetic hygroscopic oil. I'd suggest flushing the system with a kit and installing a new accumulator and orifice tube.. You may have to buy a new condenser as the new, cheaply made R-134A condensers have small passages these day, that are much smaller then in times long gone by. So if any foreign material that is now in the open system, might well end up clogging up the condenser, leading to a system failure.
You can, however, flush out the rest of the system, then install the new accumulator and the orifice tube. using the new PAG 150 oil. Yes, if there is a leak, then of course that needs to be found and repaired. Having atmo in the system, without vacuuming it out is one reason why it wouldn't cool properly, as well as not being able to boil out the water that was in the system as well, and the O2/N2 atmospheric gases tends to lead to much higher operating pressures in the A/C system too. Your A/C system calls for 8 ounces of PAG 150 oil and 32 ounces of R-134A., but that is for a new or completely flushed out A/C system. This is a table that roughly gives you the amount of PAG 150 oil you will need to add for an 8 oz, system, depending on what is replaced/flushed, give or take, and many factors like how large or small the A/C system is:
Compressor.........1.8 oz
Condenser..........1.3 oz
Evaporator.........1.6 oz
Accumulator........2.0 oz
Hoses..............1.3 oz
A little extra PAG 150 won't really be an issue, particularly if you install a new accumulator, but getting the R-134A up to normal amounts and pressures is very important. I would wait until you get the A/C system back to normal before you buy the dash control unit. No use spending hard-earned money on something you may not need at all.
And of course always wear eye protection and use gloves when you work on a pressurized system like air-conditioning. When I was in junior college many years ago, studying to become a mechanic (they were not called "technicians" back then) a student who was unsupervised, had the receiver-dryer (accumulator) blow up in their face. Luckily the pieces of metal did not blind the person, but they did have have shrapnel on the uncovered face and arms. And R-12 used lower pressures then R-134A.
How long was the A/C system open to atmo? If a long time, you'll almost certainly have H2O in the polyalkylene glycol oil, as ii is a fully synthetic hygroscopic oil. I'd suggest flushing the system with a kit and installing a new accumulator and orifice tube.. You may have to buy a new condenser as the new, cheaply made R-134A condensers have small passages these day, that are much smaller then in times long gone by. So if any foreign material that is now in the open system, might well end up clogging up the condenser, leading to a system failure.
You can, however, flush out the rest of the system, then install the new accumulator and the orifice tube. using the new PAG 150 oil. Yes, if there is a leak, then of course that needs to be found and repaired. Having atmo in the system, without vacuuming it out is one reason why it wouldn't cool properly, as well as not being able to boil out the water that was in the system as well, and the O2/N2 atmospheric gases tends to lead to much higher operating pressures in the A/C system too. Your A/C system calls for 8 ounces of PAG 150 oil and 32 ounces of R-134A., but that is for a new or completely flushed out A/C system. This is a table that roughly gives you the amount of PAG 150 oil you will need to add for an 8 oz, system, depending on what is replaced/flushed, give or take, and many factors like how large or small the A/C system is:
Compressor.........1.8 oz
Condenser..........1.3 oz
Evaporator.........1.6 oz
Accumulator........2.0 oz
Hoses..............1.3 oz
A little extra PAG 150 won't really be an issue, particularly if you install a new accumulator, but getting the R-134A up to normal amounts and pressures is very important. I would wait until you get the A/C system back to normal before you buy the dash control unit. No use spending hard-earned money on something you may not need at all.
And of course always wear eye protection and use gloves when you work on a pressurized system like air-conditioning. When I was in junior college many years ago, studying to become a mechanic (they were not called "technicians" back then) a student who was unsupervised, had the receiver-dryer (accumulator) blow up in their face. Luckily the pieces of metal did not blind the person, but they did have have shrapnel on the uncovered face and arms. And R-12 used lower pressures then R-134A.
I just bought this truck so I don’t know how long it was sitting but everything was connected with a bypass belt. He said they wanted $850 and he thought it was the compressor but dude just lost his wife and house and he was a wreck so I let it go. Anyway yeah I only got one 16 oz can in it the first time so yeah it might be clogged somewhere as well as leaking somewhere else. Where the line goes into the thermostat housing their is some plastic sticking out of the connector that looks pretty thrashed so I’m probably just gonna get a new condenser and new lines. The compressor is reman that came with the correct oil in it. I don’t know if filling it draining it and vacuuming it affects the oil or not. Thanks for your help!
96 S10 PO530 code
