GeoffW

New to the group. Thanks for the add. I am really questioning my abilities right now. My son bought a 2002 Chevy Tracker base with the 2.0. No issues until I took it to get it washed. I powerwashed the engine and the car. When we left it started up and we drove it out of the bay and as we got ready to pull out of the parking lot it stalled. It has not restarted. I had a cam sensor code. Replaced the sensor. I am not getting spark from any coils. I have replacement them also just in case. Fuel pump is working. I have lifted the valve cover and chain is intact and both cam gears are moving. I have check all fuses and all are OK. Any suggestions are welcome. Need to get this back on the road.

mountainmanjoe

does a scan tool show correct engine RPM?
Are the coils getting power? (black + white wire)
Are the coils well grounded? What about the engine block?

L84sky

> I am not getting spark from any coils

A fair assumption is the problem is something common to all four coils. This composite of a 2001 Tracker ignition system should help focus your troubleshooting.

bearbait

I think the problem was caused by power washing the engine. The high pressure spray could have introduced water into electrical connections. With the newer high tech systems this is not good. I never use a power washer on a car engine. Good luck with your problem.

Rednucleus

Maybe pull all the boots off plugs/coils and spray with wd 40 to drive out water

TonyoParts

I'm another new old guy. My Tracker "Red Rocket" had a major antifreeze leak so I washed the engine compartment with a presoak of orange citrus solvent followed by a good hard rinse with a garden hose, After, it started right up and drove about 20' into the garage then died. It left no engine codes, has plenty of gas and won't start. I determined it's not getting any spark at any of the cylinders. I checked the voltage & ground at all four coils, they check ok. Another thread from 2014 with the same problem fixed his by replacing the cam sensor. My Haynes manual has a procedure for testing the cam sensor voltage at the supply side (12V) and the sensor output side (5V). Both checked out fine. It's been sitting in the garage drying out for three days now. Need help!
Does anybody have any advise as to what i should check next? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Tony

L84sky

> My Haynes manual has a procedure for testing the cam sensor voltage at the supply side (12V) and the sensor output side (5V). Both checked out fine.
I think the CMP sensor is the place to start. That and the PCM are the only two things comon to all four spark plugs and it's unlikely water got into the PCM. The Haynes manual is correct in that the CMP sensor supply voltage is 12 DC. That can be checked with a voltmeter. You should be able the check the CMP sensor ground with a test light. But I don't know how you could check the CMP sensor output signal with a voltmeter. I have the V6 engine but the principle is still the same.

This is an actual oscillograph from my engine. You four banger does not produce reference pulses so ignore those. But notice the cam position pulses switch between 5-volts and ground and that the width of each pulse tells the PCM which cylinder is in position for firing. You absolutely need an oscilloscope if you want to see if the CMP sensor output is correct. A voltmeter will not do that.


The 2.0 liter engine sensor uses a Hall effect CMP sensor.


The irregularly spaced projections on the reluctor wheel produce the unique pulse widths on the CMP signal to the PCM. You'll need to find out if you are producing CMP pulses or a flat 5 volts DC when the engine is cranking.

TonyoParts

First of all, thank you L84sky for responding to my thread. I was hoping you'd see it and answer. I never was a technician but worked across the back counter for decades and can spot a tech that knows what he's talking about. I used to go to all of the inhouse training that was available and learned just enough to know what I don't know. That has saved me more than once.I myself questioned the 5 volt test because that was a static reading and not cranking. I didn't want to just start buying parts trying to fix it. I have a frind that owns one of the best independet dignostic shops in our area. I didn't want to bother him at his shop but if I bought him lunch, I'm sure he'd come to my house and check it out. Is this test something he can do with a portable scanner like a Solus?
Thanks again L84sky. If you're ever in Eastern Washington, I'd buy you lunch too.

L84sky

>Is this test something he can do with a portable scanner like a Solus?
The Snap-on Solus is high quality diagnostic scanner, but it won't be much help if you're not throwing codes. Your friend will have a portable oscilloscope, probably a "Picoscope" if he is a professional mechanic. With it he will be able to back probe the connectors on your PCM to determine if you have a CMP signal. On a related note, I followed the Chevy service manual flow chart for a "Crank, no start" using the answers you provided. It said to replace the PCM. I hope that is not the case.

TonyoParts

My friend got back from vacation and came over with scope and sure enough, there is no cam signal.
I see cam sensors for 10-15 dollars upto almost 100. I'd rather not pay big bucks for an "AliExpress" 12.00 sensor. Does anybody have an idea where I can get a quality sensor?