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How to change a multifunction turn signal switch in a '95-'98 model
June 25th, 2010, 8:54 PM
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Same Part - Year 2000 Suburban - 1500 Series - 4WD - Cruise Control
Hello All,
My first post here. I am replacing this multifunction switch on a
year 2000 Suburban 1500 series, 4WD, with cruise control. The
IGNITION CYLINDER DOES NOT HAVE TO BE REMOVED! DON'T
FORGET that you can tilt the wheel up and down at times to
make this job easier; and you can also move the gear shift
lever for the same reason! The detailed instructions in posts 1&
2 have been quite helpful to me for sure. I am NOT a car guy, nor
am I handy in general. I am tired of paying a thousand bucks time
and time again for auto repairs though. I also have received
guidance on this issue from a paid site www.justanswer.com which
I am into for a whoppping $19.00.
I have NOT had to remove the steering wheel, nor the air bag
on the steering wheel. The upper and lower plastic coverings
around the steering column had to come off, you'll need an E6
inverted TORX (star shaped) SOCKET to get the upper one off. The
lower comes off first, it needs a T25 TORX BIT for two screws from
underneath, then the upper is freed from below, removing
the TORX headed screw from BELOW, it's near the ignition switch.
A TORX BIT will be needed to remove two screws to take the
actual switch off the steering column down the line in this job.
The face of the dash board must come off, it's done without tools,
just pull it off gently as you move your hands around the perimeter.
I got the lower dash off below the steering column without removing
the emergency brake handle. (More to follow)
Hello All,
My first post here. I am replacing this multifunction switch on a
year 2000 Suburban 1500 series, 4WD, with cruise control. The
IGNITION CYLINDER DOES NOT HAVE TO BE REMOVED! DON'T
FORGET that you can tilt the wheel up and down at times to
make this job easier; and you can also move the gear shift
lever for the same reason! The detailed instructions in posts 1&
2 have been quite helpful to me for sure. I am NOT a car guy, nor
am I handy in general. I am tired of paying a thousand bucks time
and time again for auto repairs though. I also have received
guidance on this issue from a paid site www.justanswer.com which
I am into for a whoppping $19.00.
I have NOT had to remove the steering wheel, nor the air bag
on the steering wheel. The upper and lower plastic coverings
around the steering column had to come off, you'll need an E6
inverted TORX (star shaped) SOCKET to get the upper one off. The
lower comes off first, it needs a T25 TORX BIT for two screws from
underneath, then the upper is freed from below, removing
the TORX headed screw from BELOW, it's near the ignition switch.
A TORX BIT will be needed to remove two screws to take the
actual switch off the steering column down the line in this job.
The face of the dash board must come off, it's done without tools,
just pull it off gently as you move your hands around the perimeter.
I got the lower dash off below the steering column without removing
the emergency brake handle. (More to follow)
Last edited by AdvenJack; June 26th, 2010 at 9:47 PM.
June 25th, 2010, 8:54 PM
#13
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(From above) One thing that was very difficult to do was to free the wires
from the junction box down low under the steering column and to the left.
I unscrewed the copper colored hex headed screw fully, it does not come
out even though it's fully loosened. Then I pulled and pulled and tried loos-
ening the thing up by pushing flat screw drivers around the sides and after
HOURS of trying it finally came free. Then I had to follow the paths of FOUR
more wires that end in TWO clips, two wires per clip. One is atop the steering
column near the ignition switch. A small FISH hook, believe it or not, is helpful
to free this clip.
The other clip is a bit difficult. It's down low along the passenger side of the
steering column, & is inserted into a plastic thing from the engine side NOT the
driver's seat side. You need a little screw driver, or punch, or the like, to push,
toward the front bumper, a little green piece of plastic free of the clip, then
depress a small piece of the clip, then push it toward the front bumper till it's
free. (More to follow)
from the junction box down low under the steering column and to the left.
I unscrewed the copper colored hex headed screw fully, it does not come
out even though it's fully loosened. Then I pulled and pulled and tried loos-
ening the thing up by pushing flat screw drivers around the sides and after
HOURS of trying it finally came free. Then I had to follow the paths of FOUR
more wires that end in TWO clips, two wires per clip. One is atop the steering
column near the ignition switch. A small FISH hook, believe it or not, is helpful
to free this clip.
The other clip is a bit difficult. It's down low along the passenger side of the
steering column, & is inserted into a plastic thing from the engine side NOT the
driver's seat side. You need a little screw driver, or punch, or the like, to push,
toward the front bumper, a little green piece of plastic free of the clip, then
depress a small piece of the clip, then push it toward the front bumper till it's
free. (More to follow)
Last edited by AdvenJack; June 25th, 2010 at 10:01 PM.
June 25th, 2010, 9:16 PM
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(From above) Once all these wires are disconnected carefully "snake" them out.
Then use the TORX driver to remove two screws holding the switch to the
steering column area, one is on top the other is on the lower left. (For the lower
one I had to use a TORX BIT (DeWalt brand) and a small open ended wrench
because I had NOT removed the steering wheel and air bag.) Now all is clear and
the old unit is removed.
That's as far as I have gotten so far. NOW, at this point my electric windows won't
close and the motor won't start, there's NO clicking, NO NOTHING! I guess it's a
"safety" thing, I made sure that the battery was reconnected after the windows
failed to operate. So my truck is covered with a tarp tonight, even though NO rain
is expected, thank God. Tomorrow morning by 9 AM the process of installing the
new part will begin; and hopefully, BEFORE LUNCH, "all will be right with the world",
and the tools will be back in the draws. I'll post on the day's progress.
Then use the TORX driver to remove two screws holding the switch to the
steering column area, one is on top the other is on the lower left. (For the lower
one I had to use a TORX BIT (DeWalt brand) and a small open ended wrench
because I had NOT removed the steering wheel and air bag.) Now all is clear and
the old unit is removed.
That's as far as I have gotten so far. NOW, at this point my electric windows won't
close and the motor won't start, there's NO clicking, NO NOTHING! I guess it's a
"safety" thing, I made sure that the battery was reconnected after the windows
failed to operate. So my truck is covered with a tarp tonight, even though NO rain
is expected, thank God. Tomorrow morning by 9 AM the process of installing the
new part will begin; and hopefully, BEFORE LUNCH, "all will be right with the world",
and the tools will be back in the draws. I'll post on the day's progress.
Last edited by AdvenJack; June 25th, 2010 at 9:41 PM.
June 26th, 2010, 1:16 PM
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The job is done !!!!!!!!!!
THANKS MUCH MDTAHOE!!! Clicking sound GONE. Installation completed
Sat. 6/26 before lunch, 12 noon. All aspects working correctly, cruise
control, wipers, window wash, turn signals, 4 way hazards, etc. The
installation was 50 times easier than the removal. Folks should be told
there's NO NEED to remove the steering wheel, nor the air bag. I DID pull
the FUSE for the air bag and disconnected the battery, then waited 11
min's before working because I'd learned HERE that there's a capacitor that
holds a charge capable of activating the airbag for 10 min's after loss of
battery power. Folks should be told up front that they NEED the E6 TORX
SOCKET to remove the upper half of the steering column shroud since
there's a single TORX headed screw that secures the top half of the shroud
to the steering column area; and they need the TORX T25 bit to remove
the two screws that hold the actual switch in place atop the steering
column. The lower left screw needs to have the T25 bit manipulated into
place, then a 1/4" small wrench is needed to turn the bit from the left side.
They'll need to use TORX bit to unscrew two screws on the bottom of the
lower half of the steering column shroud too. Folks should be told that
pulling the plug from that "junction box", down low, to the left of the
steering column, requires the loosening of the HEX headed screw
COMPLETELY, AND, that it does NOT come out, it only loosens, AND, the
plug (after the screw is loosened) can be very difficult to pull free, very
resistant, and that they must NOT give up, just get it out! Glad the job is
over, as is the test drive. Thanks again to the opening poster northey87 for
all that I learned here including the pic's.
Reminder, the ignition cylinder
does NOT need to be removed!!!
Sat. 6/26 before lunch, 12 noon. All aspects working correctly, cruise
control, wipers, window wash, turn signals, 4 way hazards, etc. The
installation was 50 times easier than the removal. Folks should be told
there's NO NEED to remove the steering wheel, nor the air bag. I DID pull
the FUSE for the air bag and disconnected the battery, then waited 11
min's before working because I'd learned HERE that there's a capacitor that
holds a charge capable of activating the airbag for 10 min's after loss of
battery power. Folks should be told up front that they NEED the E6 TORX
SOCKET to remove the upper half of the steering column shroud since
there's a single TORX headed screw that secures the top half of the shroud
to the steering column area; and they need the TORX T25 bit to remove
the two screws that hold the actual switch in place atop the steering
column. The lower left screw needs to have the T25 bit manipulated into
place, then a 1/4" small wrench is needed to turn the bit from the left side.
They'll need to use TORX bit to unscrew two screws on the bottom of the
lower half of the steering column shroud too. Folks should be told that
pulling the plug from that "junction box", down low, to the left of the
steering column, requires the loosening of the HEX headed screw
COMPLETELY, AND, that it does NOT come out, it only loosens, AND, the
plug (after the screw is loosened) can be very difficult to pull free, very
resistant, and that they must NOT give up, just get it out! Glad the job is
over, as is the test drive. Thanks again to the opening poster northey87 for
all that I learned here including the pic's.
Reminder, the ignition cylinderdoes NOT need to be removed!!!
Last edited by AdvenJack; June 26th, 2010 at 9:48 PM.
September 24th, 2010, 6:06 PM
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I have a 2005 silverado 4wd ext cab with three apparent problems. The 1st is the check engine lite is on with a code po455 and the 2nd is the service airbag lite is on. Also, the message ctr says service airbag. Last but not least, the passive alarm light remains lit when the engine is running. I took the covers off the steering column and found two wires disconnected. One is a two wire female green plug, the other is a multi wired female plug with a gray, white, black, green and purple wire going into the plug. How do I repair these and where would the plugs go?
November 9th, 2012, 3:05 PM
#19
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Outstanding explanation!! I'm ready to dive in....but, I've called around, it seems that a new switch is ~$200 from the local parts stores, Advance Auto, Auto Zone, NAPA etc. It it $500 from GM 
However, GM is the only place that asked if I had a tilt wheel...I do. I'm a little nervous about getting the right part. I have a 96 Silverado, tilt, cruise. I've seen them on Ebay for ~$60. Can someone 'splain what's going on?
BTW I found that my brake lights were out, turn and hazards worked, now the hazard switch stopped cooperating.
Thanx,
Mike
However, GM is the only place that asked if I had a tilt wheel...I do. I'm a little nervous about getting the right part. I have a 96 Silverado, tilt, cruise. I've seen them on Ebay for ~$60. Can someone 'splain what's going on?BTW I found that my brake lights were out, turn and hazards worked, now the hazard switch stopped cooperating.
Thanx,
Mike
Last edited by Mike2636; November 9th, 2012 at 6:25 PM.
January 9th, 2013, 8:12 PM
#20
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Tried to take a shortcut....
On Christmas Eve, I changed out the ignition switch on my truck. After going through all that, I figured I could save time and trouble on this one by cutting and splicing the wire. That was earlier today. Now, it starts up and runs, but the battery gauge is showing that there is no charge at all. Also while it's running, I turn on the headlights, and the chime comes on and will not stop until I turn the headlights off. So the battery and headlights are acting like the truck is off, when it's on. So, I got online and found this site... Any tips? Will I have to get another turn signal switch, or is this even the problem? Can I still make this one work? Or could the problem be from when I changed the ignition switch? 