tailgate led light strip
August 25th, 2020, 5:03 PM
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tailgate led light strip
I have an 08 Silverado 2500 hd with tow package. I have tried to install a tailgate light strip through the trailer harness, but it wont work. Specifically, the light strip comes with a 4 blade trailer plug. I tested it using the 7 to 4 plug adapter to make sure it would work. No go. I plug it into my son's RAM and it works. I connect a trailer to my plug and the trailer lights all work. Is there something strange about the trailer package that keeps this from working?
Last edited by pardoni; August 25th, 2020 at 5:15 PM.
August 25th, 2020, 7:36 PM
#2
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Does your truck have an integrated brake controller (factory mounted in dash)? 2008 seems early for an integral controller, but if your truck does have one, that’s why. The controller doesn’t recognize the light strip as a trailer, so no power is being supplied to the trailer lights.
Some trucks from that era also had a brake controller mounted above the spare tire, but I can’t remember if that was just for the brakes or the brakes and lights.
If it doesn’t have an integrated controller, remove the factory jumper harness from the truck and try again. Chevy supplies an 8 or 9 ft long jumper harness for adding a camper plug. From the factory, they are zip tied above/behind the spare tire and can cause problems. All you have to do is cut the zip ties and unplug the harness at both ends (maybe cut the ground wire too - I can’t remember exactly) then plug the harness from the truck back into the 7 way.
If it still doesn’t work, you’ll have to splice into the tail light wiring.
I don’t remember the year of the trucks, but I’ve installed 2 of those light strips on customer trucks (in the gap between the tailgate and bumper - both were 2500 HD’s and both were in the 2008 - 2012 range) and both times I ended up splicing into the tail light harness ahead of the junction block (it was easier than splicing in after just because I didn’t have to open and cut/splice wiring from 2 different looms).
Sorry for the lack of memory on some of the details - I’ve only ever done the 2 and it was almost 3 years ago now. A lot has happened since then.
Good luck.
Some trucks from that era also had a brake controller mounted above the spare tire, but I can’t remember if that was just for the brakes or the brakes and lights.
If it doesn’t have an integrated controller, remove the factory jumper harness from the truck and try again. Chevy supplies an 8 or 9 ft long jumper harness for adding a camper plug. From the factory, they are zip tied above/behind the spare tire and can cause problems. All you have to do is cut the zip ties and unplug the harness at both ends (maybe cut the ground wire too - I can’t remember exactly) then plug the harness from the truck back into the 7 way.
If it still doesn’t work, you’ll have to splice into the tail light wiring.
I don’t remember the year of the trucks, but I’ve installed 2 of those light strips on customer trucks (in the gap between the tailgate and bumper - both were 2500 HD’s and both were in the 2008 - 2012 range) and both times I ended up splicing into the tail light harness ahead of the junction block (it was easier than splicing in after just because I didn’t have to open and cut/splice wiring from 2 different looms).
Sorry for the lack of memory on some of the details - I’ve only ever done the 2 and it was almost 3 years ago now. A lot has happened since then.
Good luck.
August 26th, 2020, 11:04 AM
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Does your truck have an integrated brake controller (factory mounted in dash)? 2008 seems early for an integral controller, but if your truck does have one, that’s why. The controller doesn’t recognize the light strip as a trailer, so no power is being supplied to the trailer lights.
Some trucks from that era also had a brake controller mounted above the spare tire, but I can’t remember if that was just for the brakes or the brakes and lights.
If it doesn’t have an integrated controller, remove the factory jumper harness from the truck and try again. Chevy supplies an 8 or 9 ft long jumper harness for adding a camper plug. From the factory, they are zip tied above/behind the spare tire and can cause problems. All you have to do is cut the zip ties and unplug the harness at both ends (maybe cut the ground wire too - I can’t remember exactly) then plug the harness from the truck back into the 7 way.
If it still doesn’t work, you’ll have to splice into the tail light wiring.
I don’t remember the year of the trucks, but I’ve installed 2 of those light strips on customer trucks (in the gap between the tailgate and bumper - both were 2500 HD’s and both were in the 2008 - 2012 range) and both times I ended up splicing into the tail light harness ahead of the junction block (it was easier than splicing in after just because I didn’t have to open and cut/splice wiring from 2 different looms).
Sorry for the lack of memory on some of the details - I’ve only ever done the 2 and it was almost 3 years ago now. A lot has happened since then.
Good luck.
Some trucks from that era also had a brake controller mounted above the spare tire, but I can’t remember if that was just for the brakes or the brakes and lights.
If it doesn’t have an integrated controller, remove the factory jumper harness from the truck and try again. Chevy supplies an 8 or 9 ft long jumper harness for adding a camper plug. From the factory, they are zip tied above/behind the spare tire and can cause problems. All you have to do is cut the zip ties and unplug the harness at both ends (maybe cut the ground wire too - I can’t remember exactly) then plug the harness from the truck back into the 7 way.
If it still doesn’t work, you’ll have to splice into the tail light wiring.
I don’t remember the year of the trucks, but I’ve installed 2 of those light strips on customer trucks (in the gap between the tailgate and bumper - both were 2500 HD’s and both were in the 2008 - 2012 range) and both times I ended up splicing into the tail light harness ahead of the junction block (it was easier than splicing in after just because I didn’t have to open and cut/splice wiring from 2 different looms).
Sorry for the lack of memory on some of the details - I’ve only ever done the 2 and it was almost 3 years ago now. A lot has happened since then.
Good luck.
it does have the brake controller on the dash☹️. I’m guessing there is no work around other than splicing
Last edited by pardoni; August 26th, 2020 at 11:08 AM.
August 26th, 2020, 12:14 PM
#4
CF Veteran
Not that I’m aware of, but I’m not familiar enough with the module programming to say for sure. However, splicing into the harness is also a good opportunity to inspect the overall condition of the wiring at the back end. Those junction blocks are known for corrosion problems, and wiring is always at risk of rubbing/chafing in miscellaneous areas.
There are butt connectors wrapped in heat shrink and will seal/reinforce the splice. They’re also available as a step down (for example, yellow to blue which would be from 10-12 gauge to 14-16 gauge) that work very well when needing to splice 2 wires into 1. A heat gun works best for sealing them but a small torch will also work as long as you don’t get the flame too close to the connector.
There are butt connectors wrapped in heat shrink and will seal/reinforce the splice. They’re also available as a step down (for example, yellow to blue which would be from 10-12 gauge to 14-16 gauge) that work very well when needing to splice 2 wires into 1. A heat gun works best for sealing them but a small torch will also work as long as you don’t get the flame too close to the connector.
August 27th, 2020, 1:10 PM
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i went ahead and wired directly to the running, turn and backup lights. connectors and heat shrink then loomed and tie strapped. Clean install and light strip is awesome. Thanks again Gumby!
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