sandy0225

My hubby's 2000 silverado is having an intermittant starting problem for about a year now.It almost seems to be temperature/dampness related. When it's about 30-40 degrees, often it won't start. I'll get a list of the parts he's replaced on it so far when he gets home from work and post here too.
When it does start, it runs just fine. It starts great when it's -5 degrees outdoors even, so we don't think it's battery related.
When it does this, it'll act like it's flooded and sometimes it'll actually flood the engine. It cranks over just fine (until the battery runs down). then if you charge the battery and wait for the weather to change, it will eventually start.
It also has an issue with the gas gauge, it will just randomly go from full to empty and the low fuel light will come on, then go off as it switches from full to empty in a random way. We've been getting around this by using the trip odometer to know if we really need gas or not, but could they be related?
It doesn't throw any codes or if it does throw one, it's for 02 sensor, which the mechanic we took it to says it's because it's been flooded.
Other than that, it's a great truck, but you don't know if you'll be able to drive it every day anymore like you used to be able to. I'm stuck with it at home today.

therewolf

Dampness related no-starts are often verdigris encrusted battery cables. You can't see it, it's inside the insulation. After a few years this oxidation process occurs naturally.The REALLY GOOD news is it's about 20$ for the new cables, and they're easy to install yourself. Just be sure you disconnect them both NEGATIVE(BLACK) first, and when your done, at the last step connect them NEGATIVE last.

Level the playing field with the new cables, and your other electrical problems(caused by the corroded cables affecting your grounding) will probably go away by themselves. Best of luck, my girlfriend has a truck just like yours and she loves it.

Believe231

Next time it won't start, watch the tach, if it's not moving, then there's an issue w/ possibly with the crank sensor or ignition switch (if it's not getting power to the sensor's circuit). If it's moving, then spray some t-body cleaner into a vacuum line and then see if it'll fire. If so, then there's a fueling issue. If not, then floor the throttle and then see if it'll start (the PCM will shut off the fuel injectors when you do this, to clear a flooded engine). If it starts then, it's possible the fuel pressure regulator is leaking. Remove the vacuum line off of it while it's running and see if any fuel comes out, if so, it's bad. Let us know if any of this rambling helps out or if something else you find fixes it.

sandy0225

Thanks for the responses. We'll try these suggestions out and see how it goes. It was rainy and warm for a few days, so I was pretty much stuck at home. No start.
Then the weather changed yesterday and cleared up and got cooler. It's started with no problems the last two days...so I have wheels again!

therewolf

The cables get worse and worse as time passes. A lot of mechanics like to leave them in, because they burn out batteries, alternators,and starters. They like steady customers.

Don't wait too long on those cables, or you could wind up stuck in a parking lot.

gerkendave

i too have a 200 silverado and was having a hell of a time with it not starting and acting flooded. But mine would cut out when pulling hard like up hill (very hard to notice but with dual exhaust i could tell). I replaced the fuel pressure sensor and still same problem, so i then replaced the fuel pump (also had problems with the fuel gauge), the fuel pump only fixed the guage nothing else. So i bought a fuel pressure tester (thought it was the injectors leaking, had this problem on my dodge) But come to find out it wasn't the injectors it was the brand new fuel pressure regulator. We pulled it out and cleaned it up put it back in and now it fires every time with no missing under hard pull. If you have access to a fuel pressure guage i would suggest doin this if your pressure drops very rapidly its a pressure sensor (bout 100 bucks at a chevy dealership, DON'T USE ORIELLY JUNK YOU WILL REPLACE IT AGAIN). Hope this helps. Oh and by the way mine would only throw a evap code and that was it. Good luck

jiggsy

Great replies from the guys about the cables and possible fuel issues.

I just wanted to add my 2cents about the fuel gauge. Chevy/GM trucks are well known for this issue. Mine did it too. I replaced the fuel sending unit.(approx $25 on ebay).

Most ppl will tell you that you might want to replace the pump while you're there.

If it's not making any noise then don't bother, but, it's up to you.

Best o' luck