84 silverado. No spark at all. need help read on
I took it in to a shop and they said it could be the coil or the ignition module. How do I find this stuff? I guess the coil is in the cap or under it? It was sputtering and then died. Had it towed home. Wont fire at all. What do I do? Is there a link on here that explains the methods to test and troublshoot? Im new and searched and ended up here. Please advice. How do I fix. I dont want to buy both if I dont need to. Whatare the methods to change a coil in the cap?
here this might help you http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm
If you have the HEI ignition, it is likely the ignition module located under the cap and rotor. The coil is on the top of the cap.
Ignition modules are simple to replace and don't require any adjustments. You will need to re-time the motor after replacing it. You won't be very far off though, so it should run just dandy after you replace it. The modules cannot be tested, but many shops will have a spare to put in for testing on the vehicle.
I've never had an HEI coil go out, but it is possible.
As far as the replacement, a couple of screws on the cap will pop it right off, (leave the coil mounted to the cap) then pull the rotor off, and a couple more screws for the module. Take care with the wiring connection to the module to ensure you don't damage or entrap the wires in the cap. (They've been baking in there for about 15 years. They could be brittle.)
Ignition modules are simple to replace and don't require any adjustments. You will need to re-time the motor after replacing it. You won't be very far off though, so it should run just dandy after you replace it. The modules cannot be tested, but many shops will have a spare to put in for testing on the vehicle.
I've never had an HEI coil go out, but it is possible.
As far as the replacement, a couple of screws on the cap will pop it right off, (leave the coil mounted to the cap) then pull the rotor off, and a couple more screws for the module. Take care with the wiring connection to the module to ensure you don't damage or entrap the wires in the cap. (They've been baking in there for about 15 years. They could be brittle.)
Mine is a 1984 1/2 ton with a 305. So would you gamble and say it is the module. Does the engine sputter and backfire then die when one goes out. Or is it different. Im on low income after recently being layed off and I want to go the cheapest and easiest route. Thank you all.
True, those coils were bullet-proof. Also had people test the modules (but I never believed that was effective) so just bought a new one (dont forget the white heat sink grease that goes under the moduleeither). Especially, though, check all the plug-on connections for the wires breaking (too much flexing over the years). Had this happen on a 305 I had once and just bit the bullet and replaced the little harness. Ran great after that too.
So by your response it is probably the module. I am at a new job after my 22 year job went out. So my budget is very minimal. It was sputtering and backfiring prior to it dying all together. Does this sound characteritic of an ignition module The plugs and wires are reasonably brand new. I inspected the cap and it was very clean and in a new type situation. I wany to make sure I do things right. So the module would be the first thing to change? How do I test the coil? Reading on I read that the coil rarely goes out on these. I took into a mechanic who ran a diagnostic on it and it said the ignition module or the coil need ed to be replaced. What should I do first.
You need to get a test light. Remove the cover on cap to access coil. Hook you test light to thenegative battery post,turn the ignition keyon and look for power to coil. If power is present move test light to negative side of battery and touch light to other wire on coil have someone crank engine your test light should flash. If it does not you either have a bad module or pick up coil (inside distributor)It will more likly be the module.


