Bolt Security Systems Kill Switch Failure
#1
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Hi all....
My dad has 1995 Silverado 1500 with only 60K original miles that has an aftermarket Bolt Security Systems kill switch installed on it. It had been getting balky for about a year, but it has now given up the electronic ghost! Chevrolet now does not support these aftermarket devices, and we've been told that we might have to replace the entire wiring harness! [sm=icon_quiet.gif] We can put the decoder into the slot and turning the ignition switch produces a "click" like a solenoid tripping, but no starter.As expected, after about 45 seconds or so, even the clicking stops so I think the "brain" of the switch is OK, but no power is getting to the starter. We have replaced the battery and cleaned all the connections but no joy......
I'm sure some enterprising individual has removed or wired around this mess at one time or another and we sure coulduse the help. There are only five wires going into the harness (and two are the hot and ground) and we are willing to try anything to keep from replacing an expensive wiring harness.
Thanks in advance!
Gene
My dad has 1995 Silverado 1500 with only 60K original miles that has an aftermarket Bolt Security Systems kill switch installed on it. It had been getting balky for about a year, but it has now given up the electronic ghost! Chevrolet now does not support these aftermarket devices, and we've been told that we might have to replace the entire wiring harness! [sm=icon_quiet.gif] We can put the decoder into the slot and turning the ignition switch produces a "click" like a solenoid tripping, but no starter.As expected, after about 45 seconds or so, even the clicking stops so I think the "brain" of the switch is OK, but no power is getting to the starter. We have replaced the battery and cleaned all the connections but no joy......
I'm sure some enterprising individual has removed or wired around this mess at one time or another and we sure coulduse the help. There are only five wires going into the harness (and two are the hot and ground) and we are willing to try anything to keep from replacing an expensive wiring harness.
Thanks in advance!
Gene
#2
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There should be a yellow wire coming off the ign switch. If you follow that down, it should go to a relay. the yellow wire will be cut, and the relay installed in between the connection. Test for 12 volts on the key side of the yellow wire during crank. If you have voltage, check for voltage during crank after the relay on the yellow wire.(after you disarm the system) If you have voltage, then the problem is further down the line(problem with the vehicle), If you don't have voltage, you could have a bad relay, or like you said, a bad control unit.
You can cut the relay out of the circuit, and just connect the yellow wire back together and it should perform normally. There should be no reason why the dealer has to replace a harness. They should be able to just repair it using a piece of wire, and some solder
You can cut the relay out of the circuit, and just connect the yellow wire back together and it should perform normally. There should be no reason why the dealer has to replace a harness. They should be able to just repair it using a piece of wire, and some solder
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