Boy, there is alot of crap about Dexcool going on. Here is a little story from Consumeraffaris.com

More than 30 GM cars and trucks built from 1995 to 2004 are involved.....

More here ----> http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news0...ol_settle.html

 

I'm given to understand(primarily by manufacturers claims) that Dex-Cool is safe for the new style cooling system, and the aluminum(?) fins on the system's radiator. I've done two waterpump R&Rs re-using the existing coolant!

This summer (albeit at 75K miles) I will be flushing and replacing it with new Dex-Cool and bottled water, in the proper proportion. After 4 years the fluid has taken on a Sepia tone to it's color which indicates it's at the end of it's service life. In the past I found trusting standard
green antifreeze (like Prestone) over 2 years was pushing it. So the Dex-Cool has doubled the service interval for me.

The only thing I've added to top off the overflow reserve bottle on rare occasions so far is bottled water.

I like the new cooling system, had one a lot like it in my Jeep, and this one has worked well. I, for one, barring unforseen problems, will be sticking with Dex-Cool.

 

ok.. still running into a few problems...
radiator IS leaking... I had a compression test done- he put 100 pounds of pressure and it was SLOWLY losing pressure... mechanic said there was no leak as it wasn't leaking when the compression is on.
I disagreed, and set out to find this phantom leak. Turns out here is a leak at the point where the oil cooler line enters the radiator tank on the driver's side at the top of the radiator... It only leaks when the truck has been running for a while or after it is turned off... small pin hole in the flat steel near the outside of the radiator threading
I am guessing I need a new radiator as the rad tank is plastic?
also the reservoir is leaking where the hose attaches.. the 'male' piece on thee reservoir where the hose attaches is cut at an angle, is that the way it is supposed to be?
I don't want to spend $50 in coolant to flush it only to do it again to replace the radiator and tank...

thanks...
PS- where the heck are the block plugs for draining the block?

 

make sure the retaining nuts are tight for the internal cooler, I thought I needed a new radiator for the same leak on my 97 Tahoe and all it was was the retaining nut was working loose.

I don't think you want to go removing the block plugs unless you have had some major rust or contamination issues, a good flushing should do.

 

i tightened the cooler line after removing it and cleaning it... it's a small hole that i found by using a short pencil to 'feel' the steel flange... there is a hole in that flange surrounding the thread area... I don't know how else to describe it.