2001 3/4T 8.1L 4x4

My passenger window quit working. The passenger window switch doesn't engage window. When using the drivers side switch I hear a click at the passenger switch panel.

I assume this means the switch is working, but the motor or regulator is bad.

Questions:

1.) If the passenger switch was bad, would the drivers switch still roll the window up/down?
2.) How do I check the switch to see if that is the problem?
3.) How do I check the regulator?
4.) How do I check the motor.

I have searched and read about rerplacement procedures already, just want to check stuff before starting to remove.

Thanks.
D

 

There are two relays built into the passenger switch, one each for window up and down. Whether you work the passenger switch or driver switch, you're energizing one of those relays by grounding the relay coil. Do you hear a click for which direction, window up, down, or both? Assuming no clicking at all with the passenger switch but clicking both up and down directions with the driver switch, I think you have no path to the ground from the passenger switch. When you work the driver switch, you're using the the driver switch's ground. Disconnect the electrical connector from the passenger switch and then check the two BLK wires for continuity to ground. If none, you've got a wiring problem rather than the hardware.

 

Thanks for the reply.

I do hear a click when using the passenger switch, but I figured that was the actual switch mechanics making the click not the switch energizing.

Just got my first volt meter, but have used one in the past.

So, not really sure how to check for continuity.

I assume I ground the meter then put some voltage to the black wires you mention???

 

Continuity just means 0Ω (or very close to it). Digital multimeters usually have a continuity check setting (beeps) in addition to the usual resistance. In either case, the meter will supply a voltage on one probe itself. If it reads 0Ω when you bring the two probes together, you are all set to go.

That said, although the relays click with the passenger switch, you may still have one of the BLK wires not grounded. Touch the black probe on a known good ground (get a helper if necessary) and then touch the red probe to where the BLK wires terminates at the electrical connector.

If the above checks out, install the electrical connector onto the passenger switch and move on. Disconnect the electrical connector from the window motor and then measure the voltage across the two wires while working the passenger switch. It should read 12V in one direction and -12V in the other (i.e., reverse polarity). If it checks out, you can assume the window motor is shot.

 

Thanks again. I will be checking today.

 

The most common problem I've had and seen is worn out brushes in the window motor. I would suspect this to happen to the window(s) that get used the most.
I don't know how chevy handles this but my experience is that you can't buy brushes even though they are very cheap and not all that hard to replace. There are aftermarket places to buy brushes but you will need to show them a sample.

 

I checked the wiring harness to ground and it's good. We are good across the switch too.

Looks like I will be getting a new motor/regulator.

Autozone and O'Reilys carry them in stock for $100. Not sure what the local Napa charges?

 

Installation was straight forward.

Remove door panel (2 screws and 3 or 4 plugs)
Remove door handle (1 bolt)
Remove dust shield (plastic cover).
Remove assembly (6 bolts and 2 clamp screws).

Replace in reverse order.

Love the forums.

 

Thanks for the update. I'm sure it'll benefit others who find their way here.