Clunk in rear end when turning
#21
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It sounds like the main issue here is expense. Jack it up, pull the cover, put it in neutral and give it a spin while looking at the spyder gears. That will cost you nothing. If the spyder gears need replacing you need to 1st remove the bolt holding the cross shaft in place then push the axels in 1 at a time and remove the c clip.
Pull the axels out enough to allow the removal of the 4 spyder gears and at that point rotate the drive shaft by hand and see if the carrier spins smothly on the ring, pinion and carrier bearings. If it does then simply replace the spyder gears, slide in the axels 1 at a time and install each c clip then reinstall the cross shaft, seal the cover back on and refill.
That would only cost you the spyder gears and some fluid.
If it needs more than that and you have never set up a rear before, get some help.
Pull the axels out enough to allow the removal of the 4 spyder gears and at that point rotate the drive shaft by hand and see if the carrier spins smothly on the ring, pinion and carrier bearings. If it does then simply replace the spyder gears, slide in the axels 1 at a time and install each c clip then reinstall the cross shaft, seal the cover back on and refill.
That would only cost you the spyder gears and some fluid.
If it needs more than that and you have never set up a rear before, get some help.
#23
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Well, I don't know if I got ripped off or not but I do know that my truck is fixed and that's what really matters to me. The mechanic ended up replacing the diff with a AAM Helical Limited Slip Differential (pt # 40041224). He gave me my old diff and I took some pics. I'm surprised I made it to the mechanic. Total was $1300 and some change.
Last edited by fsh4fun05; May 11th, 2009 at 8:18 PM.
#26
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I got home from work and in a hurry I started draining the diff. My intentions were to take the cover off and inspect but a nasty cold storm blew in and started dumping on me. I was able to drain the old fluid, it was black, and replace it with Lucas and the gm additive. My wallet felt some pain when I looked at the drain plug and there were two tiny teeth on top of it. About the thickness of a toothpick and about a 1/4 inch long. I did the best I could to scrape the bottom through the drain plug but found no other metal bits. I stuck my finger in the hole,lol, and felt the bottom of the diff. My finger had stripper sparkles on it when I wiped it off. (tiny metal flakes like dust) Took it for a spin around the block and then turned into a parking lot so I could do some turns. Damn it! The wheels still skip!!! I turned the wheel all the way to the left and watched the left rear tire come to a complete stop when I let off the gas. I slowly straightened out the front wheels and the truck started rolling again (it's an automatic). Why would it bind up like that?
I replaced the u-joints and the carrier bearing on the two-piece driveshaft about two months before I had this problem. That wouldn't have anything to do with it, would it? I really need to find out what's wrong but at the same time I need to find out WHY it went wrong.
Broken truck=no fishing....it's a sad day.
I replaced the u-joints and the carrier bearing on the two-piece driveshaft about two months before I had this problem. That wouldn't have anything to do with it, would it? I really need to find out what's wrong but at the same time I need to find out WHY it went wrong.
Broken truck=no fishing....it's a sad day.
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