silverado 1500 2001

with too much time on my hands i've done it, have to wait for drying, will test :O

1) raise lip all around with taps by hammer / screwdriver

2) use a small pair of dykes to unwrap metal (important: if you skipped step 1, you'll push edges down which is worse)

3) spring pops out parts fly 5 ft

4) on floor: small seal (useless, rtv) spring spring holder cup and inner peice

5) the inner peice is the regulator guess what ? sealed same way, so do steps 1-4 again

6) take two large socket make now bent up edges nicer (20+ mm, whatever fits). slam down to flatten a little. put on side to clean up edges. ok if edges look terrible all they do is hold down

7) operation. inside is two flat disks that spring presses. if fuel comes in the outer race and pushed diaphram hard (60psi) these disks unseat and let fuel into the nipple (fuel return)

8) the diaphram is cloth coated with (?rtv orange) and if your reg is bad: it's the rtv is peeling off the cloth. get gas insolvent rtv and without tearing cloth recoat it.

9) i plan to use rtv, install, and clamp/bend/fold/ream the metal edges back down (enough edge to hold 60 psi, won't have to be perfect)

10) test it. haven't yet. theoretically the spring and plates didn't change, only the coating on membrane, so if that holds it works

orange rtv, kinda new, is for gas. there's also a new gas line sealer paint (hardens if it contacts gas). avoid use of black rtv.

what can i say ? to much time on hands not enough cash ! halarious.

silverado 1500 2001

it did take an array of good hammer and vice skills to get back together. the inner was easier (no spring)

the outer

1) before spring check fit. use socket to widen / make good round of outer race

2) use reverse side of socket to protect nipple but rest flat on rest (prevent crush of cage). don't care if exit tube bends. vice 2 halves together. support underneat well and hammer lip over and around (finess, bumping blows). turn over not letting it out of vice do again. now on all sides. should be held in then use an array of hammer against curved surface, then pliers, to finish off rounding

the outer is harder but only holds the spring (not the gas) half of the assembly back to operation (see above) the spring part is ONLY wet if the membrane is penetrated (it then gets sucked into cylinders, could cause hydo lock if leaking fast.

other mechanics have noted this pitfall of GMs design (failure tube exits into cyl) and have had such a regulator failure on GM orig. parts)

so bench test it good. it's not for the faint of heart or todo on your most valued possession, no

silverado 1500 2001

my injectors may not work (bench testing in progress, now that fpr works)


YES! so far the rebuilt fuel pressure regulator does
it doesn't leak a bit with 60+ psi

it lets excess press go back recovery line (? cant' remember 80psi)

many tests still doesn't leak after return / reseating

but i thought so. minus deteriorating orange rtv. the two flat disks held together by spring "just can't not work" as long as your membrane is not penetrated. it's really a great design if you leave out the oem using orange rtv

one last TIP, adjusting psi is easy. i bent in the nozzle (vice). later after testing i thought it leaked i pried it back flat thinking nipple would go in further. infact no a injector seal popped out because i hadn't put the plate on (that's what the plate does!) was the leak: the rebuild regulator was holding tight. what moving the tip in or out does is change the spring distance. if you need to raise psi vice it (crush it in a little), if you find your psi is too high, lower it. what you want is no leak of fluid on return line for at least 62+ psi otherwise your fuel pump will work harder. infact before you take it out (oem) the nipple is a little caved in - that's normal. and after flattening it i got 50psi and caved it back in and got 65 psi easy. not hard to adjust psi.

finally see warning about hydrolock and engine cracking in half if new membrane is penetrated (this can happen on oem left disintegrating too long too, so). don't use this part if your not sure, don't use it on a well usable car !

$250 for a whole kit (new inj, regulator, seals, body) GM did truck owners a favor (on som cars just 1 inj costs more!). if you have 100k+ on your car you likely do need a regulator if not an inj (and intake gastket, like me). and dumping any money into old spider will waste: $150 seals, 1 inj, shop supplies, regulator: get the upgrade kit and it's also save you on fuel and be easier to repair if it does ever need it.

it is possible to (see help: injector bench test) to fix an old spider for the cost of $shop supplies only. possible fun. but not worth it unless your resolute to do it that way

silverado 1500 2001

see also:

https://chevroletforum.com/forum/sil...working-67564/