hesitation 91 k1500
I have a 91 k1500 with a 5.7l 5 speed. whenever I put it in 1 gear and give it a little throttle it hesitates and almost stalls, but when I give like 30% or more throttle is runs like a raped ape. lets say I am rolling to a red light and it turns green, when I put it in 2nd gear and givbe a little throttle it does the same thing, it bogs down and has real choppy sound. any ideas.
uh usually that's an air problem like intake leak right? idles ok, rought in middle, ok if runs rich (more gas)
see "mystery coolan leak" (intake gasket). i suggest if you have an old truck and that seems familiar: do it, and while your at it your fuel reg. is leaking so get "drop in" the fuel inj kit while your at it.
or maybe just a loose hose or leaky brake booster, check around, see air is holding where it should
check air, spark, fuel. skip sparky probably. fuel unlikely. so i think your left with air leaking somewhere
automatic? i'm unsure it's the transmission catching too harsh (drain and fill if your fluid is brown or doesn't smell fresh, double check you followed all fill instructions and didn't overfill, be a little below "max" line ok?)
manual? i'm too tired to think mcuh more. but for that clutch / leaf etc do all gears same, not just 1st or from start.
*** you'd get "jumpy" on a manual if you got any oil / dirt on your clutch plate (or even burned/smooth metal side). you can use break cleaner on it, if that's all it is
broken leafs not to my memory (i'd re-read first) while if your discs were worn or smooth you'd have lack of engagement
see "mystery coolan leak" (intake gasket). i suggest if you have an old truck and that seems familiar: do it, and while your at it your fuel reg. is leaking so get "drop in" the fuel inj kit while your at it.
or maybe just a loose hose or leaky brake booster, check around, see air is holding where it should
check air, spark, fuel. skip sparky probably. fuel unlikely. so i think your left with air leaking somewhere
automatic? i'm unsure it's the transmission catching too harsh (drain and fill if your fluid is brown or doesn't smell fresh, double check you followed all fill instructions and didn't overfill, be a little below "max" line ok?)
manual? i'm too tired to think mcuh more. but for that clutch / leaf etc do all gears same, not just 1st or from start.
*** you'd get "jumpy" on a manual if you got any oil / dirt on your clutch plate (or even burned/smooth metal side). you can use break cleaner on it, if that's all it is
broken leafs not to my memory (i'd re-read first) while if your discs were worn or smooth you'd have lack of engagement
forgot.
when you say hesitate it can mean "clutch doesn't grab then catching quickly" (too much torq, engine alsmost stalls
or (see air leaks above)
i said you could clean plate with brake cleaner. but not if it's glazed (blackened and smooth - it needs resurface or new one). and if there is oil all over it obviously figure out if that's going to continue to be an issue. bye now
when you say hesitate it can mean "clutch doesn't grab then catching quickly" (too much torq, engine alsmost stalls
or (see air leaks above)
i said you could clean plate with brake cleaner. but not if it's glazed (blackened and smooth - it needs resurface or new one). and if there is oil all over it obviously figure out if that's going to continue to be an issue. bye now
i didn't mean to imply skiping the sensors advice. test those parts see if they are within limits. (you have no pcm code so you can guess ohms are w/in max/min limits. but maybe they are intermittent ? sometimes even just dirty?)
i always see people report they spend a $$ throwing parts and still have problem.
i like to say: use your diag skills to determine what part not to tests. always test a part see if it's doing it's job (it's not hard!). don't replace anything that does it's job. cheapest part you ever bought is a good service manual
there are many parts that "work" that you'd like to replace before (overpriced) coil sensors that work. example: wheel bearings that drag. break calipers that no longer retract well and drag. "coolant mystery" if not already done 1x
i always see people report they spend a $$ throwing parts and still have problem.
i like to say: use your diag skills to determine what part not to tests. always test a part see if it's doing it's job (it's not hard!). don't replace anything that does it's job. cheapest part you ever bought is a good service manual
there are many parts that "work" that you'd like to replace before (overpriced) coil sensors that work. example: wheel bearings that drag. break calipers that no longer retract well and drag. "coolant mystery" if not already done 1x
Last edited by silverado 1500 2001; Aug 26, 2014 at 8:09 AM.
[QUOTE=silverado 1500 2001;283602]uh usually that's an air problem like intake leak right? idles ok, rought in middle, ok if runs rich (more gas)
see "mystery coolan leak" (intake gasket). i suggest if you have an old truck and that seems familiar: do it, and while your at it your fuel reg. is leaking so get "drop in" the fuel inj kit while your at it.
I found a small leack around the intake gasket, could that be the issue? I don't understand what you mean by drop in kit
see "mystery coolan leak" (intake gasket). i suggest if you have an old truck and that seems familiar: do it, and while your at it your fuel reg. is leaking so get "drop in" the fuel inj kit while your at it.
I found a small leack around the intake gasket, could that be the issue? I don't understand what you mean by drop in kit
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